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3vze coolant hose help

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Old 05-19-2013, 07:31 PM
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RSR
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3vze coolant hose help

I'm in the process of checking/replacing all of my coolant hoses, but need some help IDing/locating some hoses on the dealer parts diagram.


The hoses in the green are the one's I need help identifying/locating -- the only thing I can figure is that they might be under the plenum?

Here's the method of description:

Hose # - Dealer Description - Location
#7 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.3 - Unknown
#8 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.3 - Unknown
#9 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.7 - Unknown
#10 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.6 - Unknown

And these are the known hoses (hopefully it'll help someone else):
#1 - HOSE, RADIATOR, INLET - Upper Main Radiator Hose
#2 - HOSE, RADIATOR, OUTLET - Lower Main Radiator Hose
#3 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.3 - Rear of Engine Hose, above exhaust crossover
#4 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.4 - Coolant hose going into left side of throttle body
#5 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.5 - Coolant hose going into right side of throttle body
#6 - HOSE, WATER BY-PASS - In the parts catalog, this hose is specified for 2400 CC (22RE) engine only, so not applicable
#11 - HOSE OR PIPE(FOR RADIATOR RESERVE TANK) - from radiator cap to overfill tank (where you add your coolant)
#12 - HOSE, BREATHER - breather hose on overflow tank

I have a 93 pickup and the only hoses that appear to have been replaced are the Upper and Lower radiator hoses, so be sure to check yours!

On separate parts diagrams:

also don't forget to check your oil cooler hoses if you have one -- the hose on mine directly below the oil filter was severely softened/deteriorated from oil leaks or oil spills from the filter when changing.

And the heater hoses are probably due for replacement too.

Thank you for the assistance.
Old 05-19-2013, 07:34 PM
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Should add that there are silicon hoses available formed fit for our main upper and lower radiator hoses. If yours are shot, they would probably a good investment and just a couple bucks over the $50 these two hoses alone would cost you from the dealer...
Old 05-20-2013, 09:02 AM
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I believe there are some coolant lines that run under the air chamber. The lines are attached to the underside so you won't see the lines, just the ends where the hoses connect. I can't remember which ones off the top of my head.

Correct me if I'm wrong... but it looks like your diagram is missing a hose. There's a large coolant hose (bigger than #4 & #5 but smaller than rad. hoses) that runs along the back of the engine and has a plastic valve of some sort along the way. It's large and has a metal bracket holding it in place... I don't have a pic. I doesn't seem to be on that diagram, the only thing close is #4 & #5 but those are the lines that go to the throttle body.

Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 05-20-2013 at 09:17 AM.
Old 05-20-2013, 10:08 PM
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Thanks -- by air chamber you mean air intake?

Yes, there's actually 3 hoses there that you are talking about -- they're the heater hoses.

Again, thanks. Haven't actually pulled my plenum yet.
Old 05-21-2013, 02:03 PM
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Okay, figured out #7, #8, #9, & #10. Those hard lines run from the water bypass in the rear of the engine to the EGR valve for "C&C Only" -- guessing California and Canada. So if you have a U hose there, you don't need to worry about buying and installing 4 add'l coolant hoses! Yay.

See first page of this pdf from FSM -- upper middle right box: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf
Old 05-27-2015, 09:27 PM
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#5 Bypass hose "bypassed"

Hi all,

Looking for some advice here. I have a leak from the rear of the 3VZE but it is NOT the "U" shaped hose...

It looks like the previous owner "capped" the water bypass hose (#5 water bypass in the diagram) that is supposed to lead to the throttle body... The "cap" on it has a pinhole which is where the coolant was squirting out and soaking the firewall/engine bay once I got to operating temp.

The advice I'm looking for is to fix it right or "re-cap" it.

This bypass hose is obviously engineered to serve a purpose, but how vital to the engine health is this?

My hesitation to fix this the right way is that I'm afraid the parts that have been bypassed might spring a leak since they have been running dry for who knows how many years/miles.


Thanks much for any advice.





water bypass hose bypassed?
Old 05-28-2015, 06:42 AM
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#5 goes to the lower side of throttle body, and #4 goes back out on the forward side to a fitting on the intake manifold. So if the aft connection was bypassed, the forward one would have been as well. (see step 18(e) http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf).

So far as I can tell, its purpose is to warm up the throttle body, which sounds like a driveability matter. Personally, I like to get my truck to the way the engineers designed it. In your case, I would look at the #4 connection to the intake manifold. That might have been really bunged up, rather than just capped.
Old 06-01-2015, 06:23 AM
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Thanks for the input, that was a helpful link.

I needed a quick fix for the weekend so I "re-capped" it which I know will be on there longer than I initially plan it to be since there are always other things pressing to fix.
Old 11-16-2015, 05:22 PM
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Hi,

AFAIK #4 (#16281) and #5 (#16282) are going to/from the TB/IAC valve.

I need to replace both of these in order to take my TB off and clean up the IAC valve (they're so stuck on it that I am sure I will damage them when I take them off).

I don't want to spend $20 for a couple hoses which could easily be replaced by some standard reinforced silicone tubing...

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...281-65010.html
http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...282-65010.html

Would anyone care to share the ID of those 2 hoses if you remember?

Cheers
Steve
Old 12-26-2016, 05:13 PM
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I think I am having the same issue with mine. I will check tomorrow.
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