ddv1126

Ok I've searched the forum plenty of times. I have a cold start issue and so farr I've gathered that its either the injector or the coldstart switch/sensor. I read that I should get a wire and put it from the negative on the battery to the negative on the sensor. If my truck doesn't start then I could assume its probably the injector. I did that and the truck seemed like it was close to starting but just wouldn't. I didn't keep trying but I'm guessing its the sensor that needs to be replaced because before it would never start in this weather or sound like it was that close. If I change the sensor and it doesn't work. What's the easiest way to get the cold start injector out to test ? Also should that test have caused it to start immediately?

ddv1126

Does the fuel rail need to be removed to pull it out?

ddv1126

Anybody?

JR

Well dvv

The cold start injector is the easiest one to get at, it is located on the passenger side on the plenum right above the EGR valve (from memory). When you say it almost wants to start, how cold is the weather. The cold start injector adds additional fuel on cold start up and runs until the engine starts warming up, high cold idle that starts dropping as it warms up.

No you will not have to remove fuel rail, like I said the real easy to get to. Getting it started is the first thing to do. More information on how it wants to start.

Girlfriends 92 Pickup had starting problems when it was warm and sat for 20 to 30 minutes. Changed sensors, no difference. I believe the problem was a leaking cold weather injector, hot it would start but that 20 to 30 minute time was tough. Ran premium gas with seafoam, took two cans over 4 tanks, one can in first & fourth tank problem fixed. 30K latter first problem cap & rotor needed changing but different.

Back to cold weather, was the temperature below -36C (-32.8F). Vehicle wants to start hesitates, stutters and then stalls, attempt restart same problem and usually on the third attempt motor is flooded and now it's a bitch to start.

Both the girlfriend's 92 and my 93 Pickup have this problems when temperature is below -36C (-32.8F) wants to start but doesn't. The trick I have learned is that once it starts work the gas to build RPM speed, I would guess 1/4 throttle on & off. That stupid flapper is stuck and until it moves it will keep cutting fuel because is thinks it is not running. What a pain in the ass! It does not matter if truck is plugged in. Best start -46C (-50.8F) vehicle was not plugged in but I had to work the throttle, you will know when it opens, RPM's will build. Just make sure that you keep the revs up until all that excess fuel is burnt off. If you take foot of gas when it first starts to build RPM it will stall, once it gets up to 1500 RPM it always runs fine.

More info on conditions and what it is doing.

Hans

ddv1126

This is the 3vze. Any pic would be appreciated on the location of the injector. It's only in the 20's here. I think I've found the injector but it looks like its under the fuel rail. I'll take a pic ASAP. This problem is killing me. It's my daily driver and I'm relying on the bus for now.

ddv1126

It's at a mechanic and they swear they need to take it all off to get to it. I haven't given the ok because I'm convinced that's not necessary.

JR

Cold start injector.pdf

ddv1126

Thanks. This is behind the egr valve? On the passenger side?

JR

Passenger side. Very easy to get to. Cold start injector is on plenum (intake manifold). Follow air path from Throttle body which is on Driver side and injector is on other side.

Fuel pipe comes from fuel rail but you do not need to open manifold.

To get to it you would need to be standing by passenger front tire. Lots of other hoses all around. EGR pipe is below it.

JR

picture

ddv1126

Awesome , ill get on it as soon as I get out of work. This has been a major help. its at a decent shop but they have no clue what to do. I'm gonna tow it back home and check it out. If I pull the injector and turn the key fuel should shoot out in a steady flow?

JR

Like I said intake manifold EGR tube is right below it. Two nuts to remove injector and one clip.

It should squirt but never tried it. Tried injecting either or butane into air cleaner to help start. Be careful.

Can you get it to run at all.

ddv1126

Yeah. I have to crank it till the battery is practically dead

ddv1126

Then it shoots a ton of smoke like it was full of gas.

ddv1126

Put a new sensor in. It fired right up. Only problem is, it's 60 out today. A lot warmer. Texas weather is crazy. I'll try it tonight. Hopefully it starts. Then I'll pull the injector if it doesn't. Thanks for the diagram. It was easy to locate.

ddv1126

Ok well when the mechanic pulled the connection off the old switch and he broke it. Now it doesnt clip into the new switch, just sits on the top. The truck will not start at all now. IM unsure if its because the clip is not secured properly or if its a problem with the actual injector now. Im searching for a new connector or pigtail but having a major problem finding one. Any advice where to look? I called toyota they are trying to track one down, but im sure its gonna cost me. I brought the truck home since it seems like im doing all the work anyways. I had my wife start it while i pushed the connector down on the switch. It started once, but then I tried it again a couple hours later when it was colder and had no luck. Any advice.?

JR

Can you go to the wreckers and cut the last 6" or 12" off and solder it into your harness.

ddv1126

Yeah I think that's my last resort.

ddv1126

Ok I pulled the injector and turned the key. It sprayed fuel. Seems like it is working. Should it continue to spray while the starter is cranking or just spray for a second? It just sprayed for a second then stopped

JR

Cold injection time is depended on temperature; 68F from 0 to 4 seconds; 0F 4 to 8 seconds. So 60F and one second of squirt would be normal.

Should download a manual.

Hans