3vze alternate intake manifold
02-13-2005, 02:37 PM
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3vze alternate intake manifold
Im in the process of rebuilding my 3vze with some mild performance upgrades. The manifold off of the core engine that I got is so caked with ˟˟˟˟, well, truth be told I cant tell how much ˟˟˟˟ is in it because I cant see inside..... Its not going back on.
Anyway, im interested in creating a custom mild steel intake manifold. Im considering a flange that will fit a TB from a 7mgte supra, as I already have an oversize, bored 7mgte throttle body.
I would eliminate the primary entry tube in the middle of the 3vz manifold, and connect six mandrel bends with the same volume as the stocker to a single collector. The runners for each cylinder would be turned 180 degrees and point towards the driver's side of the truck. The TB would still point in the same direction.
A mild steel manifold could easily be hot-tanked, unlike aluminum, in the future if a cleaning is necessary.
Anyway, im interested in creating a custom mild steel intake manifold. Im considering a flange that will fit a TB from a 7mgte supra, as I already have an oversize, bored 7mgte throttle body.
I would eliminate the primary entry tube in the middle of the 3vz manifold, and connect six mandrel bends with the same volume as the stocker to a single collector. The runners for each cylinder would be turned 180 degrees and point towards the driver's side of the truck. The TB would still point in the same direction.
A mild steel manifold could easily be hot-tanked, unlike aluminum, in the future if a cleaning is necessary.
02-13-2005, 03:17 PM
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your talking about the upper intake plenum only, and retaining the lower manifold ?
use a gasket to make a flange out of 3/8 flat steel. diffrent length runners could make a diffrence in tourqe.
use a gasket to make a flange out of 3/8 flat steel. diffrent length runners could make a diffrence in tourqe.
02-13-2005, 04:18 PM
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alright, I've been keeping a secret idea......
since your going to the trouble to make a custom intake plenum anyway i was thinking to make an adapter to use the 5vzfe trd supercharger!!
we already know the pullys from the 5zvfe will bolt up to 3vze accesorys so we could use the serpentine belt.
now just get our lower manfold runners to match up with s/c runners and the pullys to line up. the adapter would bolt to the lower intake and the s/c would bolt to the adapter.
I've seen used s/c kit on ebay pretty cheap lately.
since your going to the trouble to make a custom intake plenum anyway i was thinking to make an adapter to use the 5vzfe trd supercharger!!
we already know the pullys from the 5zvfe will bolt up to 3vze accesorys so we could use the serpentine belt.
now just get our lower manfold runners to match up with s/c runners and the pullys to line up. the adapter would bolt to the lower intake and the s/c would bolt to the adapter.
I've seen used s/c kit on ebay pretty cheap lately.
02-13-2005, 09:09 PM
#6
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hm... that's a really good idea... if you make a different plenum to possibly fit the 5vze supercharger... YOU REALLY NEED to do a write up... that's something I'd be really interested in! But... I wonder if the 3vze can take it? Is the 5vze DOHC? 24 valve...?? sorry to hijack, but, I never really thought about that until import raczer said that... but, I'm sure it's already been talked about.
02-13-2005, 09:31 PM
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I have thought about the S/C going in that same spot but now you have the water pipe right on the front of that pully as well.....
I do not have a budget to design and manu something like that but I would love to see it......as for the 3vz taking the boost on the already flaky HG I think that this would require the use of an all metal H/G same for the intake prerify, and the DOA head bolt solution that gets away from the TTY concept.
I do not have a budget to design and manu something like that but I would love to see it......as for the 3vz taking the boost on the already flaky HG I think that this would require the use of an all metal H/G same for the intake prerify, and the DOA head bolt solution that gets away from the TTY concept.
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02-14-2005, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by importrazcer
alright, I've been keeping a secret idea......
we already know the pullys from the 5zvfe will bolt up to 3vze accesorys so we could use the serpentine belt.
.
we already know the pullys from the 5zvfe will bolt up to 3vze accesorys so we could use the serpentine belt.
.
hmmm, this thread just got real interesting!
02-14-2005, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dragon564
I have thought about the S/C going in that same spot but now you have the water pipe right on the front of that pully as well.....
I do not have a budget to design and manu something like that but I would love to see it......as for the 3vz taking the boost on the already flaky HG I think that this would require the use of an all metal H/G same for the intake prerify, and the DOA head bolt solution that gets away from the TTY concept.
I do not have a budget to design and manu something like that but I would love to see it......as for the 3vz taking the boost on the already flaky HG I think that this would require the use of an all metal H/G same for the intake prerify, and the DOA head bolt solution that gets away from the TTY concept.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...1&postcount=15
Good luck with your idea!
02-14-2005, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Ditto on the HG/head bolts. That is the known weak point on these motors. You might want to try a 7MGE AFM also. I posted info about the differences in the 3VZE vs the 7MGE AFM's in this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...1&postcount=15
Good luck with your idea!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...1&postcount=15
Good luck with your idea!
02-14-2005, 03:50 AM
#11
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That post actually appears in two threads:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/custom-fabricated-intake-tube-box-snorkel-37554/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/mods-3-0-durring-full-rebuild-35794/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/custom-fabricated-intake-tube-box-snorkel-37554/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/mods-3-0-durring-full-rebuild-35794/
02-14-2005, 07:32 AM
#12
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hm... so, if you replace the head bolts, have an all metal hg and reroute the water line (if possible) the 3vze is a possible candidate? damn... if something like this can be done... I would definitely go for it!
02-14-2005, 12:35 PM
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I was thinking about building a 3.0 upper manifold as well. Once I get through my bottom manifold we will see how it goes. There should be a thread around here about my upper manifold that I cut in half with a sawzall and ported then welded back together. Couple more days then I will get going on my 3.0 again for some more performance stuff.
If any of you guys are looking for some DOA head studs just let me know I have a set new in the box. I wont use anything from DOA ever again.
If any of you guys are looking for some DOA head studs just let me know I have a set new in the box. I wont use anything from DOA ever again.
02-14-2005, 03:39 PM
#14
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that's good to know that you won't use anything from them, but are willing to give them away... that's not very good advertisement... anyway... why won't you use their stuff again?
02-15-2005, 01:07 PM
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I will give you the scoop Keggo and I will post some pics for ya towards the end of the month when I pull my heads off again. I gotta pay another $500 to a local shop to fix what DOA could not manage to get right for the $1500 I paid him. Actually I could write a novel here about the expirence but to make a long story short.
this section of text was taken from this discussion about the 3.0 in general.
3.0 Discussion
plenty of reading there have a look
if your still sold on DOA. Check with the Better Business Bureau but be sure to check in the state of California and not NC. Thats where I screwed up in not knowing that he was a recent arrival to NC and had a trail leading back to California. I didnt even get a reciept for my $1300 in work ($200 was shipping) it took right at 2 mos to get them back including 10 days for shipping (5 days each way). I would also like to note that I marked my cyl heads and cams before sending them and much to my suprise I didnt get what I sent back. There is a very real possibility that the heads I was sent back may aready be at thier machine limit (that happens when you resurface with a belt sander!) and I will be pretty much screwed. If that is the case there will be legal action.
To be totally honest I can say that the porting looked good and the cams are fine as well. So if you must deal with DOA just send him a bare casting and cam cores. Be sure to have your new cams in hand when getting your heads rebuilt so the machine shop can make provisions to leave you with some valve adjustment to work with. After going through my valves twice in the last 5 mos I realised that Tim set this head up to use the largest valve shim toyota makes a #49 or 3.40mm thickness. For those of you with a valve shim chart handy for the 3.0 have a look and you will see that is the largest size on the chart. The real issue about this is that if for any reason one of my valves gets loose due to cam wear or what ever Im screwed as there is no larger shim I can install. Kinda makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside writing about this in a sort of serial killer sort of way
My intake manifold thread for any one that actually wants to stay on topic.
this section of text was taken from this discussion about the 3.0 in general.
3.0 Discussion
plenty of reading there have a look
I have a little to add.
After a few mos. with the DOA heads and some testing it appears I have 4 leaking intake valves. my COLD comp numbers are below 80 in 2 cyls,below 60 in the other 2 cyls and over 180 in the last 2? In all 4 of the weak cyls I have air blowing out my intake if I hook my compressor up to the comp tester (minus the check valve) @35psi with the respsctive cyls @TDC. The two 180 cyls are tight as a drum when put to the air test. Im guessing maybe Tim decked the crap out of my virgin cyl heads with his "belt sander resurfacing" method creating an interference motor? The other option is bent valves when he brilliantly shipped them back in a box half full of peanuts sitting side by side unwrapped beating the crap out of each other all the way. I had to have several spots repaired in the gasket surfaces when I got them back due to Tims poor excuse for packing and maybe I missed some potential valve damage?
Im kinda stumped to be honest. As the weather cools down I am having starting troubles and lots of missing at low speeds (800-1100 RPM) until the engine is warm. This is what prompted the compression test and air leakage tests.
I recently drove to portland and picked up a set of real OS valves from EB along with a gasket set. Im going to have my 1k$ POS DOA heads redone by the shop I should have taken them to in the first place. The shop just bought a new machine to cut seats so I will be having 1mm OS valves AND seats installed. I should have the truck ready to go by the end of febuary. Tim said he used a 1mm over sized exh valve in the "Turn Key" rebuild I purchased but upon recieving them and checking them out myself with my digital caliper I found that not to be the case. He just used new OE sized valves not oversized ones (have pics if any one wants to see)
I will be sending my Throttle Body out to be bored for $100 (I will let you all know how this goes)
I will be going through my lower intake manifold much the way I did my upper and porting each runner to uniformity in hopes of seeing gains in the mid range as the upper intake cut/port gave me. I will probably run the truck with the stock AFM for now to get a base line from a dyno I found in town. Im sure the stock AFM will be the last and most restrictive bottle neck in the system. Once I get a good baseline number then I will be adding an SMT 6 so I can do away with the stock AFM meter and probably use one of the supra ones. Once I get the SMT 6 in and properly tuned I will pretty much be at the end of the rope.
Im sure it will run better than it does now and to be completly honest Im fairly happy with it except for the crappy cold starting and idling. I cant wait to see how it runs when Im done. I guess the worst that can happen is a bunch of 3.0 performance stuff is up for sale in the classified section and I swap in a 3.4
The ONLY reason Im not swapping in a 3.4 is because Im fairly certain the 3.0 can make a reasonable amount of power. The only thing I dont like is being the test dummy for the project but I do like the tinkering aspect of it. If it works then I will have some proof for all the nay sayers that a 3.0 can make power. If its still lacking then I guess its time to buy a bender and build an intake manifold from scratch
After a few mos. with the DOA heads and some testing it appears I have 4 leaking intake valves. my COLD comp numbers are below 80 in 2 cyls,below 60 in the other 2 cyls and over 180 in the last 2? In all 4 of the weak cyls I have air blowing out my intake if I hook my compressor up to the comp tester (minus the check valve) @35psi with the respsctive cyls @TDC. The two 180 cyls are tight as a drum when put to the air test. Im guessing maybe Tim decked the crap out of my virgin cyl heads with his "belt sander resurfacing" method creating an interference motor? The other option is bent valves when he brilliantly shipped them back in a box half full of peanuts sitting side by side unwrapped beating the crap out of each other all the way. I had to have several spots repaired in the gasket surfaces when I got them back due to Tims poor excuse for packing and maybe I missed some potential valve damage?
Im kinda stumped to be honest. As the weather cools down I am having starting troubles and lots of missing at low speeds (800-1100 RPM) until the engine is warm. This is what prompted the compression test and air leakage tests.
I recently drove to portland and picked up a set of real OS valves from EB along with a gasket set. Im going to have my 1k$ POS DOA heads redone by the shop I should have taken them to in the first place. The shop just bought a new machine to cut seats so I will be having 1mm OS valves AND seats installed. I should have the truck ready to go by the end of febuary. Tim said he used a 1mm over sized exh valve in the "Turn Key" rebuild I purchased but upon recieving them and checking them out myself with my digital caliper I found that not to be the case. He just used new OE sized valves not oversized ones (have pics if any one wants to see)
I will be sending my Throttle Body out to be bored for $100 (I will let you all know how this goes)
I will be going through my lower intake manifold much the way I did my upper and porting each runner to uniformity in hopes of seeing gains in the mid range as the upper intake cut/port gave me. I will probably run the truck with the stock AFM for now to get a base line from a dyno I found in town. Im sure the stock AFM will be the last and most restrictive bottle neck in the system. Once I get a good baseline number then I will be adding an SMT 6 so I can do away with the stock AFM meter and probably use one of the supra ones. Once I get the SMT 6 in and properly tuned I will pretty much be at the end of the rope.
Im sure it will run better than it does now and to be completly honest Im fairly happy with it except for the crappy cold starting and idling. I cant wait to see how it runs when Im done. I guess the worst that can happen is a bunch of 3.0 performance stuff is up for sale in the classified section and I swap in a 3.4
The ONLY reason Im not swapping in a 3.4 is because Im fairly certain the 3.0 can make a reasonable amount of power. The only thing I dont like is being the test dummy for the project but I do like the tinkering aspect of it. If it works then I will have some proof for all the nay sayers that a 3.0 can make power. If its still lacking then I guess its time to buy a bender and build an intake manifold from scratch
if your still sold on DOA. Check with the Better Business Bureau but be sure to check in the state of California and not NC. Thats where I screwed up in not knowing that he was a recent arrival to NC and had a trail leading back to California. I didnt even get a reciept for my $1300 in work ($200 was shipping) it took right at 2 mos to get them back including 10 days for shipping (5 days each way). I would also like to note that I marked my cyl heads and cams before sending them and much to my suprise I didnt get what I sent back. There is a very real possibility that the heads I was sent back may aready be at thier machine limit (that happens when you resurface with a belt sander!) and I will be pretty much screwed. If that is the case there will be legal action.
To be totally honest I can say that the porting looked good and the cams are fine as well. So if you must deal with DOA just send him a bare casting and cam cores. Be sure to have your new cams in hand when getting your heads rebuilt so the machine shop can make provisions to leave you with some valve adjustment to work with. After going through my valves twice in the last 5 mos I realised that Tim set this head up to use the largest valve shim toyota makes a #49 or 3.40mm thickness. For those of you with a valve shim chart handy for the 3.0 have a look and you will see that is the largest size on the chart. The real issue about this is that if for any reason one of my valves gets loose due to cam wear or what ever Im screwed as there is no larger shim I can install. Kinda makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside writing about this in a sort of serial killer sort of way
My intake manifold thread for any one that actually wants to stay on topic.
Last edited by Ganoid; 02-15-2005 at 01:15 PM.
02-15-2005, 01:16 PM
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I actually added a little more for ya when I edited. I actually said somthing good but dont tell any one.
here are some manifold pics for ya.
And finally back in one piece.... notice the weld bead across the top.
I didnt take any pics of the other section but rest assured it was also ported to the same dia in the runners. The straight section went much faster then the 90 deg bends.
here are some manifold pics for ya.
And finally back in one piece.... notice the weld bead across the top.
I didnt take any pics of the other section but rest assured it was also ported to the same dia in the runners. The straight section went much faster then the 90 deg bends.
Last edited by Ganoid; 02-15-2005 at 01:25 PM.
02-15-2005, 07:35 PM
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what brand of cams are you going to use?
Let me know how the 1.5" works and what the cost was on it.
I would like to make one that looks more like the 3.4 upper using a constant flow rather than forcing all the intake charge to change directions @ the plenium.
Let me know how the 1.5" works and what the cost was on it.
I would like to make one that looks more like the 3.4 upper using a constant flow rather than forcing all the intake charge to change directions @ the plenium.
