3vz Squealing Belt Issue
#1
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3vz Squealing Belt Issue
Im stumped. So I figured I could ask someone on here what the hell is going on. Anyway, I was downtown, stopped at a wells fargo, left my car on and got out, noticed the truck was making a weird noise from the front, so I popped the hood and look at it. it sounded like the fan was hitting the shroud and then I noticed the pulley was "loose"? right when I saw that I drove it home. ( downtown is quite a distance from Roseville ) made the noise all the way until Douglas, and then when i came to a complete stop. The truck "choked" and died... started it back up. the belts were squealing like a pig was dying... and since i was in the middle of an intersection i had to drive it about 100-200 feet to a parking lot. got it there, busted out a flash light and looked at it... everything seemed fine. I was tired and it was like midnight so I left it in the parking lot over night. went there at 8:00 am and did some process of elimination. I took some scissors with me and cut the belt that attaches to the alternator... started it up... still squealed. cut the one that went to the power steering... STOPPED squealing? ( still had 1 belt attached to the AC compressor unit ) I drove it home instantly, drove fine, idled a little high, but anyway, i got it home. ( by the way, dont drive with standard steering with brand new 33s ) so I figured it was the belts. went to autozone, bought 3 new belts, including the one for the AC unit. and I just started it up and now it squeals and smokes again. now I also noticed the Fan doesn't spin. could it be the fan clutch and the idler pulley is out? Any knowledgable advice would be good, thanks.
#2
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It is possible that the bearings on the fan pulley seized or just completely fell apart. That might explain why the fan was no longer aligned.
Try turning all of the pulleys by hand without any belts. That'll tell you which one isn't turning and which one to replace.
Try turning all of the pulleys by hand without any belts. That'll tell you which one isn't turning and which one to replace.
#3
Holy<expletive deleted>!!!
You cut the alternator belt, and it got you home? You're kidding me!? Miracles do happen I guess!
So which pulley was loose?
Anyway, yeah, sounds like the fan bracket idler is seized up.
You cut the alternator belt, and it got you home? You're kidding me!? Miracles do happen I guess!
So which pulley was loose?
Anyway, yeah, sounds like the fan bracket idler is seized up.
#4
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I can turn all of the pulleys except the 2 center ones... one of the center ones is attached to the fan, and one is doing its own thing down below it. should I be able to turn them without the belts on? or what? I took some pictures. i'll post them
#5
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dead serious. it had an engine light, battery light and E brake light on when I did it. but it was only about a mile or two from home... so it wasn't very far. My battery is nearly toast though... it struggles to start.
#6
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So I decided to dig deeper into the squealing belt issue, and I've come across that it might be my Idler pulley. but anyway, I was pulling off my timing belt cover and I broke one of the studs to the radiator. any way of getting it off?
Also, This isn't spinning... should it be able to freely move with man power behind it? its a video, click on it.
Also, This isn't spinning... should it be able to freely move with man power behind it? its a video, click on it.
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#9
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#12
Correct, it IS NOT your water pump. The terms generally used to describe it are the Fan Bracket, Fan Bracket Idler, or "Dummy" Water Pump.
It should spin freely. So yours needs replaced.
They ain't too cheap either I'm afraid. $150 from the only place I've seen them.
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...ss=1382&Page=2
Edit: Strike that, there's some on ebay for much less. $40 + shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=120608115037
Make sure you get one for an 88-92, the 93-95 is different.
Oh, on the broken stud, I like to use a pipe wrench for those. Works great in situations where a good pair of vise-grips won't quite suffice. Alot of places(i.e. hardware or auto supply stores)carry replacement automotive studs.
It should spin freely. So yours needs replaced.
They ain't too cheap either I'm afraid. $150 from the only place I've seen them.
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...ss=1382&Page=2
Edit: Strike that, there's some on ebay for much less. $40 + shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=120608115037
Make sure you get one for an 88-92, the 93-95 is different.
Oh, on the broken stud, I like to use a pipe wrench for those. Works great in situations where a good pair of vise-grips won't quite suffice. Alot of places(i.e. hardware or auto supply stores)carry replacement automotive studs.
Last edited by MudHippy; 08-30-2010 at 02:48 PM.
#13
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Problem has been FIXED. and MudHippy is right. the v6 does not have a water pump similiar to the 22re. I thought it was the water pump too, but i had no signs of overheating. I always liked calling it a False Water Pump or Fake Water pump. my pictures will clearly show that the bracket is just a "cover" for the water pump and what not. but yeah, I found a bracket for 130 bucks at NAPA. and it looks exactly the same and is made from the same material as the original except my new one says made in china. lol
#15
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#19
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no. the bulge is there for strictly looks. the waterpump is very secluded behind the timing belt. If you look at picture #4, behind that center tensioner is the water pump... if you look at the bolt thats hanging off the block in that picture. thats one of the bolts that the false water pump slides and bolts onto. that bolt is for the bottom right hole on the bracket to give you some idea of where it goes.
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