3VZ Ignition Issues
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
3VZ Ignition Issues
Heres the scoop. I decided to do a a tune up on my truck for the Pismo Jamboree coming up on the 24th. So, I replaced the following.
New Spark Plugs - NGK
New Wire Set - OEM Toyota
New Distributor Cap - Denso
New Rotor - Denso
After I was done, and everything plugged back in, turned it over and it ran rough, almost like the timing was off... so I gave it some gas, and it stalled. I double checked everything, and I realized I had spun the distributor cap. Well, no big deal right...? wrong. I took it in to get it retimed ( first time the truck has been on a tow truck ) and they adjusted the cap and tried turning it over. Does nothing but crank. So after fiddling with things, ( checking the plugs, wires, cap and rotor ) they decided it could be the coil. dropped a new coil in it, and now it starts up, idles rough and if the accelerator is moved at all, it stalls. and now its back to not firing, but yet it cranks. Also, Found out I had a vacuum leak, so that hose was replaced. so heres the list of new parts.
New Spark Plugs
New Wire Set
New Distributor Cap
New Rotor
New Coil
New Power Steering Pump Hose
My mechanic/technician that is working on it says he ran a diagnostic on it and its not getting spark to the distributor. He also stated the Ignitor is functioning. anybody got any ideas? I thought maybe the Timing belt might have broke, but it didn't. Maybe its the distributor itself? I'm not sure if the cap is turning, its one of the many things I, myself didn't check. Figured I could get some idea's from everyone here.
Thanks.
Here's an action photo
Still looks good, even on the tow truck!
New Spark Plugs - NGK
New Wire Set - OEM Toyota
New Distributor Cap - Denso
New Rotor - Denso
After I was done, and everything plugged back in, turned it over and it ran rough, almost like the timing was off... so I gave it some gas, and it stalled. I double checked everything, and I realized I had spun the distributor cap. Well, no big deal right...? wrong. I took it in to get it retimed ( first time the truck has been on a tow truck ) and they adjusted the cap and tried turning it over. Does nothing but crank. So after fiddling with things, ( checking the plugs, wires, cap and rotor ) they decided it could be the coil. dropped a new coil in it, and now it starts up, idles rough and if the accelerator is moved at all, it stalls. and now its back to not firing, but yet it cranks. Also, Found out I had a vacuum leak, so that hose was replaced. so heres the list of new parts.
New Spark Plugs
New Wire Set
New Distributor Cap
New Rotor
New Coil
New Power Steering Pump Hose
My mechanic/technician that is working on it says he ran a diagnostic on it and its not getting spark to the distributor. He also stated the Ignitor is functioning. anybody got any ideas? I thought maybe the Timing belt might have broke, but it didn't. Maybe its the distributor itself? I'm not sure if the cap is turning, its one of the many things I, myself didn't check. Figured I could get some idea's from everyone here.
Thanks.
Here's an action photo
Still looks good, even on the tow truck!
Last edited by MaK92-4RnR; 09-13-2010 at 04:07 PM.
#4
Did you remove the distributor from the engine? It sure sounds like you did, and then didn't get re-installed correctly. Real common occurance that. Most folks put it back in 180 degrees off. But it could be just one or a few teeth off.
Last edited by MudHippy; 09-14-2010 at 03:24 PM.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
The truck was running PERFECT before I touched it
Here is a Video of what it does when it is STARTED
TURN THE VOLUME UP TO HEAR ROUGH IDLE.
It sputters, and misses. You'll notice that right when i touch the throttle, it dies. instantly.
Distributor was not removed from the engine, just rotated, and then turned over. I've been trying to think of things I might have done to maybe short something out? I was doing this late at night and i forgot to plug the little plug on top of the distributor back in... could turning the ignition over short anything out with that plug not in?
my mechanic is running diagnostics and the motor is only detecting a problem 50% of the time. meaning, the engine light only comes on when the truck starts up, sputters and stalls. not sure what code he's getting but he tells me hes not getting spark from the coil... well the coil is brand spanken new.
I trust my vehicle with this guy because he's owns 2 shops, has been a mechanic for 32 years, has owned a 1990 4runner since driven off the lot and now his son owns a 92, whom of which has offered to buy my bumper numerous times ( hes only 16 ) lol
Heres the things we've checked, I'll start at the ignition switch
1) Ignition switch functions, and turns over.
2) Ignitor module has been tested, functions and gives out the correct amperage/spark
3) Original coil was replaced ( 150k miles on it ) and had a new one dropped in, still nothing
4) Distributor cap + rotor have been replaced with Denso brand products.
5) Wire set has been replaced with OEM Toyota Wire Sets, Including the wire that goes to the coil. they are all on the right plugs and correct on cap.
6) Spark plugs were replaced with NGK Iridium IXs. they were properly coated with anti siezed and carefully installed
We did a diagnostic on the computer and its saying that the coil is not getting power. but its a brand new coil and the ignitor module is functioning...
Any advice or ideas is greatly appreciated. The pismo jamboree is 10 days away, i've missed it 3 years now and I'm not wanting to miss it this year.
Here is a Video of what it does when it is STARTED
TURN THE VOLUME UP TO HEAR ROUGH IDLE.
It sputters, and misses. You'll notice that right when i touch the throttle, it dies. instantly.
Distributor was not removed from the engine, just rotated, and then turned over. I've been trying to think of things I might have done to maybe short something out? I was doing this late at night and i forgot to plug the little plug on top of the distributor back in... could turning the ignition over short anything out with that plug not in?
my mechanic is running diagnostics and the motor is only detecting a problem 50% of the time. meaning, the engine light only comes on when the truck starts up, sputters and stalls. not sure what code he's getting but he tells me hes not getting spark from the coil... well the coil is brand spanken new.
I trust my vehicle with this guy because he's owns 2 shops, has been a mechanic for 32 years, has owned a 1990 4runner since driven off the lot and now his son owns a 92, whom of which has offered to buy my bumper numerous times ( hes only 16 ) lol
Heres the things we've checked, I'll start at the ignition switch
1) Ignition switch functions, and turns over.
2) Ignitor module has been tested, functions and gives out the correct amperage/spark
3) Original coil was replaced ( 150k miles on it ) and had a new one dropped in, still nothing
4) Distributor cap + rotor have been replaced with Denso brand products.
5) Wire set has been replaced with OEM Toyota Wire Sets, Including the wire that goes to the coil. they are all on the right plugs and correct on cap.
6) Spark plugs were replaced with NGK Iridium IXs. they were properly coated with anti siezed and carefully installed
We did a diagnostic on the computer and its saying that the coil is not getting power. but its a brand new coil and the ignitor module is functioning...
Any advice or ideas is greatly appreciated. The pismo jamboree is 10 days away, i've missed it 3 years now and I'm not wanting to miss it this year.
Last edited by MaK92-4RnR; 09-14-2010 at 05:57 PM.
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#8
O.k., gotta know the code or we are going to get nowhere fast.
I'll assume for now that it's 14. But you need to get a paper clip and check it yourself. I'm sure you must have watched him do it right?
If not here's the link. Read it, and get the code for yourself. Really simple stuff, a trained monkey could do it. No special tools or expertise required.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf
What do you mean by that exactly. Rotated how and why. Turned what over. Did you unbolt it and pull it out far enough to skip the teeth over the teeth on the camshaft?
To replace the cap and rotor wouldn't require doing anything but removing the screws from the cap and popping the rotor off. Then pushing the new rotor on and and putting the cap over it and replacing the screws to hold the cap on. Did you do anything different than that?
And you're 100% sure all the plug wires are routed to the right plugs?
If it is code 14 see page EG2-195 to diagnose what is causing it.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...86troubles.pdf
PS: The vid shows me nothing. Except it don't wanna run. Which could be alot of things. GET THE CODE!
I'll assume for now that it's 14. But you need to get a paper clip and check it yourself. I'm sure you must have watched him do it right?
If not here's the link. Read it, and get the code for yourself. Really simple stuff, a trained monkey could do it. No special tools or expertise required.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf
To replace the cap and rotor wouldn't require doing anything but removing the screws from the cap and popping the rotor off. Then pushing the new rotor on and and putting the cap over it and replacing the screws to hold the cap on. Did you do anything different than that?
And you're 100% sure all the plug wires are routed to the right plugs?
If it is code 14 see page EG2-195 to diagnose what is causing it.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...86troubles.pdf
PS: The vid shows me nothing. Except it don't wanna run. Which could be alot of things. GET THE CODE!
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
It is a 3VZ-E just to clear things up
I'll have to get the code tomorrow, its at a shop currently...
I will explain exactly what i did to clear things up and make sure you, and everyone else understands.
I did not remove the distributor from its initial location. Yes I removed the 3 screws, but I also loosened the bolt off to the right of the distributor ( I didn't have a screwdriver short enough to get the bottom bolt, so i figured hey, i'll loosen this, turn it and get the bolt ) other than that. I did a basic spark plug replacement, wire set replacement, and correctly installed the cap and rotor.
I am 100% sure that the plugs were correctly installed, and the boots seated on the plugs correctly. Anti seize was correctly rubbed onto the spark plugs... etc etc.
When I finished installing everything, I did not tighten the bolt down on the distributor, nor did I plug it back in. ( theres a plug on the top of it ) It didn't start, ( obviously ) I looked around, saw the plug, plugged it back in, tightened the bolt back up. and it started. ( thats when that video above takes place ) pushed the gas, stalled, and thats where i've been ever since.
I'll have to get the code tomorrow, its at a shop currently...
I will explain exactly what i did to clear things up and make sure you, and everyone else understands.
I did not remove the distributor from its initial location. Yes I removed the 3 screws, but I also loosened the bolt off to the right of the distributor ( I didn't have a screwdriver short enough to get the bottom bolt, so i figured hey, i'll loosen this, turn it and get the bolt ) other than that. I did a basic spark plug replacement, wire set replacement, and correctly installed the cap and rotor.
I am 100% sure that the plugs were correctly installed, and the boots seated on the plugs correctly. Anti seize was correctly rubbed onto the spark plugs... etc etc.
When I finished installing everything, I did not tighten the bolt down on the distributor, nor did I plug it back in. ( theres a plug on the top of it ) It didn't start, ( obviously ) I looked around, saw the plug, plugged it back in, tightened the bolt back up. and it started. ( thats when that video above takes place ) pushed the gas, stalled, and thats where i've been ever since.
#12
Registered User
Seems unlikely you could've done anything to damage them, etc., but I really want to say you have some problem going on with the airflow meter or throttle sensor. Both hooked up by chance?
Edit: I can see from your vid still that the AFM is atleast connected. I still believe there's a problem with it......or the TPS.
Edit: I can see from your vid still that the AFM is atleast connected. I still believe there's a problem with it......or the TPS.
Last edited by thook; 09-14-2010 at 07:22 PM.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thook, now that I recall... the bolts to the AFM were very loose, to the point where I can look inside of them... all i did was tighten them back up. Maybe something got inside there and caused damage, or maybe when i tightened the bolts back up, i messed something up.
What are the symptoms to a faulty AFM or TPS?
What are the symptoms to a faulty AFM or TPS?
#14
Registered User
Here's a few....
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...63troubles.pdf
And, actually, according to this troubleshooting chart, the AFM is the first culprit according to your specific symptom. Kinda confirms my thinking. Your symptom just sounded real familiar to what I've seen and read about before in threads and with my own vehicles.
What bolts are you referring to, anyway? The ones that hold the AFM to the filter housing? If so, maybe you just have a bad air leak there at that gasket. Is there a gasket there? There's suppose to be.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...63troubles.pdf
And, actually, according to this troubleshooting chart, the AFM is the first culprit according to your specific symptom. Kinda confirms my thinking. Your symptom just sounded real familiar to what I've seen and read about before in threads and with my own vehicles.
What bolts are you referring to, anyway? The ones that hold the AFM to the filter housing? If so, maybe you just have a bad air leak there at that gasket. Is there a gasket there? There's suppose to be.
#15
Registered User
is it in Time?
since you said you rotated the dist. lol
being out of time would cause it to run rough, but not the rest of the problems.
just throwin it out there Mac...i know nothing about the TPS or AFM
since you said you rotated the dist. lol
being out of time would cause it to run rough, but not the rest of the problems.
just throwin it out there Mac...i know nothing about the TPS or AFM
#16
Registered User
Being out of time would cause it to run rough, but a problem with either the AFM or TPS would cause it to time incorrectly, as well. Also, the fact that the problem is so specific and sensitive to the throttle engagement usually indicates there's a problem with the components that would be.......namely the AFM and TPS.
I bet you can cross the TPS off the list. I say something's wrong with the AFM.
I bet you can cross the TPS off the list. I say something's wrong with the AFM.
#18
Registered User
Yeah, but what bolts was it that were tightened? And, did the gasket, if there is/was one, get tweaked?
Read the troubleshooting guide, camo. You'll see the ignition system's not even listed as a culprit for his symptom; stalls when accelerator depressed.
Read the troubleshooting guide, camo. You'll see the ignition system's not even listed as a culprit for his symptom; stalls when accelerator depressed.
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thooks, what you're talking about makes alot of sense though. after I turned the distributor, my mechanic put it back in timing but ran like crap still... I'll have him look at the AFM and double check the TPS just to be sure. If this really is the culprit, and fixing the AFM fixes everything, i'll be so stoked. lol
#20
Registered User
gotchya!
and yea could have possibly fubarred the gasket?
idk how it works...but would a messed up gasket keep it from working right? the gasket is just to keep stuff out right?
and yea could have possibly fubarred the gasket?
idk how it works...but would a messed up gasket keep it from working right? the gasket is just to keep stuff out right?