rancho_santa_cruz

So I've got the classic blown right bank V-6 3.0L head gasket on my 89 4x4 4Runner. Oh yeah it's blown. Center valley on the top of the block was full of oil and coolant.

And I've got everything off down to the heads. Even broke loose the cam gear bolts!!! Talk about cheater pipes on the breaker bar.

Anyway now I'm looking at that exhaust crossover and wondering is there any hope of getting those nuts loose or am I gonna have to pull the block (which I do not want to do). I mean how do you make room???? I'm stuck on the passenger side crossover flange ... haven't even tried the driver side yet.

I looks like if I move some brake line I might get to the one most inaccesible nut but hey is this possible?

Cheers.

Lumpy

Subscribed. I'll be getting into mine as well...someday.

BoostinChick

I have read/seen pictures of people removing the crossover still attached to the head.

manyyotaman

with about 2' of extension you can get to the far left bolt/stud and the top but I also had numerous damaged /rounded nuts to contend with.
I ended up cutting a flap on each side in the wheel well about 3" up to gain access. on the passenger side I had to use a nut splitter....
the flap folds back down and "hides" behind the splash guard when completed!

rancho_santa_cruz

Yeah Boostin...I've too seen that proposed but I can just imagine that. Well maybe with two guys it's doable. And then putting the heads back on that way! What a circus. But it may be the best of the evils in front of me.

And there are alot of threads doing the switch over to headers. But I'm not up for that right now. I just can't afford another $1000 into this.

Has anybody attacked this from another angle? Besides pulling the block. Or can tell me about the removal/installation of both heads simultaneously with the exhaust manifolds and crossover all bolted on? Maybe I'll rig up a come-along to lift all of that up?

Lumpy

I'd be worried about all that twisting on the head's and exhaust especially going back in...

manyyotaman

I did by myself so I resorted to the body adjustment....... up to that point I was bang'n my head.

Blurr

i had to cut two of the driver side crossover bolts with a dremel but i was able to remove the third and all of the passenger side bolts without any real issue. a 24" extension and some universal joints were needed.

when you are ready to reinstall, replace the studs and nuts and coat the threads with anti-seize just in case you need to get back in there again.

rancho_santa_cruz

I agree Lumpy. That 's what I picture. All that twisting and torquing PLUS the heads may not sit where they want to sit. So like 'manyyotaman' concluded: body adjustment to get at those nuts. That's what I'm leaning towards.

Can you imagine how many people have hit this point when trying to pull the heads! I wonder what the real mechanics do?

JigsN Rigs

guys.. you make it sound so hard. i pulled my heads today. what i did was disconnected the flange directly attaching from the crossover on the drivers side first, and i disconnected the actual downpipe that goes to the cat from the drivers side exhaust manifold. it took all of 15 minuted and minimal effort besides a bunch of rust falling in my face. i did everythign from under the truck. for the actual downpipe i used a 24" ratchet extension for 2 of the bolts and the third i couldnt use it because the sway bar was in the wat so i used a 12" and one of those swivel things then like a 6" and broke them free with the breaker bar..

then with the heads i yanked the drivers side first, then the passenger side second because it still had the big crossover pipe attached to it.

let me know if you need more details

rancho_santa_cruz

Okay. B|tchin'. I'll go at it just like you said there. Thks for the info provided. If you can do it ... I can do it too! I'll let you know but it'll be a few days.

JamesD

I did this and it was much easier. Get someone to grab one side and you grab the other. Also most of the time the nuts need to be heated with a torch or they will strip or snap. If you decide not to mess with them, you can always leave it together and reinstall it the way you took it off.

James

JigsN Rigs

gl to you. its pretty easy. let me know if you dont get what i was saying i was sort of vague in my description

Brhesson

Hey guys, so what happened? What's the status? Got pics? I am about to get to this point on my 93 4runner 3.0v6. Any other advice? I heard doing a 1" body lift was very helpful in getting newer headers on and pulling the crossover, etc. I'm also considering doing old man emu 2" full suspension upgrade.

So right now it's being tore down and any advice would be awesome.

Also I'm a newbie, anyone know the stock 4wd auto rear gears ratio?

Uh, I saw a ifs truss on www.trdparts4u.com anyone used or suggest??

rancho_santa_cruz

I ended up doing it pretty much the way JigsN Rigs said. Really just leave the right side (passenger) alone. But you cannot get to all the manifold nuts for the left bank (drivers) from underneath. And those exhaust nuts are frikin tight. Took all I had to break some loose. When underneath you'll want two like 12 inch extentions plus wobble joint of some sort in between. And a pipe on the rachet or bar handle. And don't try with a 12 sided socket. Use a 6 sided for sure. And man they go crack. At least mine did. Been on there a while I suppose. But got success on all from the bottom. Don't do any on the right bank cross-over. Then the last remaining from the top side for the left bank turned out to be the hardest for me. Access is tough for you half inch setup. And I ended rounded one nut. Grinder fixed that. Actually got in there with a 4-inch grinder and cut the bolt. Tricky but doable. The center-cab heater core lines gave me fits and I decided to 'do-away' with them (not a big deal in southern cal) for better access. But that still didn't allow enough and that's how I rounded it. Grinder did it though. Then pull the left bank. Then the right bank with cross over attached. I ain't that heavy. I plan on re-assemble in reverse. But hurt my arm so the project is getting a rest. Got the heads done though.

MudHippy

I have a 3" body lift and I still dread removing the crossover. I've done it 3 times now...and it never gets any easier let me tell ya!(MAN THOSE STUDS SUCK!!!)

I would NOT want to know how difficult it would be gettin' that damn thing in and out of there without the body lifted up 3". I'd bet it's IMPOSSIBLE!!!





I guess you could try a temporary body lift. Unbolt the body and stick some blocks of wood or something under there. Like I said, make sure those blocks are 3'' or better thick. Yeah...that might work...
4.30 gears, most likely.


As for an IFS truss, there's ONLY 1 I'd be puttin' under my rig!(see my sig...DUH!)

TNRabbit

I simultaneously pulled BOTH heads w/crossover pipe attached (bolts loosened) BY MYSELF with no lift kit....nearly gave myself a hernia~

tried4x2signN

I remove everything from the top, remove the down pipe from the flange and the nuts that hold the manifolds on to the head.

I pick up one head and break it loose from the HG, pick it up and pull it towards the center of the truck.

Then I do the same for the other side. I leave the 2 manifolds and cross over pipe all bolted together.

If you're proficient at just REMOVING the engine, that's most the time what I do.

Don't need a body lift to work on an engine outside the engine bay... And all that room...

rancho_santa_cruz

Well that's an interesting way. Hmmm.

tried4x2signN

You should see what I do with the upper intake...

I remove the EGR and a few other things, can't remember now, and just flip it over and rest it on the fender.

Saves me removing about a hundred freaking vacuum lines...