Maximus924

Ok, here is the story

I have a 1992 4runner with 3vz and automatic.

my engine was bad so i bought a complete 3vz out of a local guys 93 runner

From what i understand, mechanically the motors are the same except for the 1993 engine has a newer hydrolic tensioner.

I got the engine all back together and went to start it.
after about 20 seconds of cranking, it started, there was a loud squeel from inside the front of the motor, and after 2 seconds the squeel went away (was this the hydrolic tensioner on the timing belt???) after the squeel went away the engine ran PERFECTLY!!! i throttled it up after it warmed up and it seemed perfect. after driving about 50 feet and turning it off about 4 times (each time to adjust various things found after starting) ... I ran to the gas station with a gas can to put a couple gallons in the tank, so i fill up the gas can, come back and pour a couple gallons of fuel in the tank.

Crank it over, it starts just as it did but instantly started running rough and slowley died (puffing black smoke) now it will not run, but if i crank it for about 5 seconds it will putter (while cranking there is the black puffs of smoke)

1) i smelled the exhaust and it smells like raw gasoline
2)checked and have fuel pressure
3) checked and have spark
4) tried adjusting the timing *Note it ran PERFECT before i left for gas so i didnt think this would help* adjusting timing didnt help at all

Im at a loss, the thing ran perfect and now it wont run at all. my only thought is that because the motor sat, the hydrolic tensioner may have not been working and allowed the belt to jump ..

please give any ideas??!

once again, the motor is a 1993


any troublshooting tips?

HAVOC

Sounds like you have an injector leaking/stuck open.

JDMSLIK

^give me a brake man

It really annoys me when someone asks a simple diagnostic question and somebody gives them a complicated answer. It could be your injectors but there's a hundred other things you should check first. When diagnosing, just do the simple things first.

If you suspect you jumped a tooth, set your crank to TDC and unscrew your top timing cover. Peel it back just enough to see if your timing marks line up. It's not uncommon for a hydraulic tensioner to settle and start leaking after it's been sitting for awhile.

Do you think that squeal could've been your acc. belts?

thook

In with a bang, eh JDMSLIK?.... Welcome to YT.

I'd have to agree. Start simple and look at the cam/crank alignment.

The sqeal could have been an accessory belt especially if they're the ones that came with engine and are aged. Look them over, of course. It could have also been water inlet/idler pulley, though. There's just a number of things it could be.

When you were adjusting the timing, did you notice if the timing notch was jumping around or remained stationary? That's a good clue if the cams and crank are out of alignment.

And, what were the 4 or so adjustments you made? Make sure you didn't disconnect something and leave it that way. Common mistake.

Maximus924

thanks for the input so far. 1st, no the things i did werent related to taking anything apart. First i had a small leak in the lower fuel hardline in the passanger wheel well, then i had to turn it off to go get a hose for more water in the radiator and a few other stops just for checks but what i noticed each time was that noise, and i am unfamiliar with the 93-95 belt tensioner and didnt know if this could allow enough slack after sitting for the belt to jump a little each time i started the car, i just couldnt think of any reason why it ran when i parked it, and now its just puffing fuel?

thanks for any other tips - and this weekend i will be taking the timing cover off and looking at the cam marks thanks again! im just trying to find out if the belt jumping is a reasonable theory??? sounds like it might be?

CyMoN

did you check to make sure the VAFM and TB are still hooked up that and the hose in between has no air leaks.

are there any codes did the check engine light turn on?

JDMSLIK

uh ya in with a bang

Sorry, what can I say I'm a bit of an ornery mechanic.

Green93

If I was you I'd start checking vacuum lines. Same thing happened to me and I swore up and down I had them correct but they weren't. I had the raw gas smell.....actually gas as well in the exhaust. Try popping open the air cleaner and smell for gas. If you smell it pop it open at the throttle body and look it to see if you have gas in there. If so then straighten out your vacuum lines. Trust me, it's easy to get them mixed up.

Jason

Maximus924

I am sure its possible that a vacuum line might be wrong, but why would the engine run perfect for like 15 minutes?? i just dont see it working and all of a sudden without changing any vacuum lines, it wont start.

as for check engine light. The truck wont start so i can not check for lights, when it was running there were no check lights

so to help clear things up, I never disconnected anything from when the truck ran and now. what happend is this

Just got truck started, it made a squeel and squeel quickly went away. drive 20 feet and stop, engine dies at stop due to low idle.

i up the idle and start again, idles fine and im about to drive it up the road. Notice the fuel light is on so i turn the truck off

go get a gas can, travel to gas station, get fuel, drive back and add fuel to the tank

crank the motor, starts quick, and quickly starts to sputter - when i hit the throttle the engine died down more, until it stalled

now, the CURRENT state of the truck:
the truck wont start until I crank the starter for about 10 seconds then a little whimper occurs and it will kind of "put" on each cylinder for about 4 seconds before it just shuts off.

once again, i didn't change anything inbetween it running and it not. just added fuel to the

this being said, Is there a reason why I shouldnt check the timing belt? The fuel rail seems like a nice idea, but if one injector was stuck or leaking, would the whole engine not run??

thanks again for any help!

thook

Yeah...it's reasonable enough. What about the timing mark, though? Was it jumping or stationary?

Do it long enough and I'd be surprised if one weren't...lol!
I was just over at my friend Don's this afternoon. He's been doing it for 40yrs or so. Geez....what a grouch! I ask him if he was enjoying Spring. He said,"Oh, I just don't give *bleep* anymore. It's all the same." (All the while he's smiling out the side of his mouth)

I think Don's gotta burnt valve...ha!

Maximus924

I am not sure what you mean about the timing mark jumping? the only thing i think you mean is as the truck is running, is the timing mark jumping under a timing light, and I have no idea because the truck hasnt run since all of this started. when i moved the distributor i was more or less just looking for a response from the engine and any sounds of ignition

*Edit - i didnt really think about it but I guess i could hook up a timing light and check while cranking... so if the timing mark is not stationary its most likley the cams are not in sync?

CyMoN

might want to open the fuel rail check valve and let it pump some gas into a glass jar to rule out water in the tank.very unlikely but might worth a shot.

when you swapped the motors did you replace the timing belt or inspect it

also when you get it started can you keep it running if you apply a little gas to the pedal or dose it just stal out?

Maximus924

on replacement i didnt inspect or replace timing belt, it ran fine at first, but i was going to wait a month or two when funds came avalible to do water pump and timing at same time... this is going to have to be sped up at this rate

as for keeping it running. If i touch the gas it will cut out, and it cranks over VERY fast, starter is working great, engine is not seized in any way, just isnt starting/running its "running for 4 seconds" is more of a violent putter

thook

It does sound like the timing belt could have jumped (or even broken); burning fuel, but no compression and turning over VERY fast. You're just going to have look at the timing belt to rule it out. No point in trying to check the timing if it won't run. I assumed you'd had it running when you said you'd tried to adjust the timing...as opposed to simply repositioning the distributor.

You are correct in interpreting what I meant about the timing marker.

CyMoN

you can pull the dist cap and turn over the motor and if the rotor dose not turn then the belt is broken.

Maximus924

well I had spark so i know the belt is still on and turning, and I was going to turn it over to TDC and see if the #1 plug matched on the distributor but i was thinking if the drivers cam jumped then that plug would still line up wouldnt it? i think im just going to have to take it apart it annoys me that it ran SOOOOOO Well and then after i added gas and started .... nothin.

thook

Yep....it's annoying. You make good point, though. If you turned the belt (I don't know why I didn't think of that before) to TDC the rotor should line up on the #1 plug on the compression stroke. So, yeah, pull the cap and turn the motor over.

mt_goat

Must have's:
Fuel
Air
spark
compression

Sounds like the only things that could be missing are compression (maybe timing off like mentioned) or air (ratio of air really..ie..too much fuel).

Are there any codes (CEL)?

On the A/F ratio (code 26 too rich) some things to check are:

engine ground
open in E1 circuit
short in injector circuit
fuel line pressure (injector leakage, etc)
open or short in cold start injector circuit
cold start injector
open or short in heated oxygen sensor circuit
heated oxygen sensor
engine coolant temp sensor
VAFM (volume air flow meter)
Compression pressure
ECM

Here's the link to the 93 FSM:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

I was extra careful because I didn't want JDMSLIK to get his moose gun after me LOL.

Maximus924

No - as it doesnt run

How would these change from shutting it off and starting it back up? the truck ran fine, then after i shut it down and turned it back on, it slowley shook it self to a low rpm and died, now nothing.

How would these be affected if the thing ran before? seems like AFM might have took a dive, but it is just weird that it started fine before

mt_goat

Well my first guess was like a Slingblade moment, so didn't want to bring it up. But all you did was add gas right? And now it acts like its getting too much fuel. How low on fuel was it before?