hgoy

I need help PLeeease. I installed a rebuilt motor (super stock from oregon motors) all went in well, ihave a few problems ( all worked prioroto new motor).
1#) i put a compression gague on the #1 cylinder turned the crank to find when i was in the compressionstroke then took it to where the marks lined up on the timing makr on crank pulley. this should be tdc on the compression stroke as required yes?? next i lined up the marks on the cam sprokets at 12 o'clock. Then i installed the bels and tensioner. turned the crake a few times marks still lined up. yay! i then installed the distributor. Here is the first problem, to get the car to start or run the distributor needs to be turned completly clock wise as far as it can go, i have no more adjustment.

I go tthe truck to run however the truck has no power when i presthe throttle it hardly revs um potor at all, ( when its warm it will rev , ok) I set the timing at 10 degrees, when i jump the points on the ign module nothing changes as far as the timing, i tired unplugging there module on side of the throttle body , makes no difference. Also what is the correct timing i have it at ten i think, but earlier when i looked at it it was off but i cant turn the distributor enough to get it to ten.

so thats the problem number one. i cant get the distributor or timing right .


NUMBER 2#

when the truk was at runing temp it was reving up nicely still bad (stumbeling idole) i put it in gear, idle dropped adn almost died. anyway when put in gear it wouold go in gear but it wouldnt move i felt is softly try to plull , hoevwer i couldnt rev up the motor i would floor it and it wouldnt rev up. if i put it in neutral and reved the motor a bit and dropped it into "d" it would definately go in gear and lurch forward but then have no pulling power again and i couldnt rev the motor to go.


HELP PLEASE


the truck is a 94 toyota with a 3.o engine bought from orgegon motors thier superstock motor (rv cams and oversized valves) if anyone can help out I would realllly appreciate it., its hard to explain here also if anyone feels comfortable letting me call them to explain that would be awesome!

this was my faters truck before he passed, so i want to restore the truck in him memory , but gonna need lil help!

thank you in adviance and appologige for my bad typing too!

xxxtreme22r

sounds like the distributor is a tooth or two off and because you have no more adjustment your timing would be off possibly causing the engine to run the way it is.

hgoy

re stabbed distributor and it started and drives! yay. however it still runs like crap. boooo i tried ti set the timeing the timing mark on the crank pully is at 12 o'clock. all the adjustment in the distributor doesnt bring it in aling, also it looks like the engine is throwing code 14 and 41.. it drives now but its pinging . nay ideas , try moving the distributor over one tooth?

justin_4runner

still off with dist. i had the same things and i gave up on trying to time it with a light on the marks, i would move the dist tell i felt like it was running good, then test drive. also make sure that all your vacuum lines are in the right spots and that none are plugged, the metal sections on mine plugged and i had to by pass them on a couple, and the pinging your getting is early destination.

sorry to hear about your dad and wish u the best of getting it all running. if u have any more questions feel free to ask lot of smart guys here.

some drunk guy

Pull out the distributor, and manually turn the motor on the front of the crank shaft bolt (19mm) Back to TDC Look carefully on the distributor, on the gear, there is one tooth that has a mark on it, and thats the TDC mark for the distributor, that TDC mark on the distributor should follow the TDC mark on the Head as an alignment mark. Sometimes depending onthe the gear tooth, you might need to turn a little to the left so it slides over the CAMSHAFT gear tooth to TDC. With EVERYTHING aligned at TDC your rotor should be pointing somewhere about 10-11oclock. If not you are either 1 tooth or 180* off

hgoy

ill try it now, its running now but no power! push the gas pedal when going like 30 it has no power and sucking gas. and still runs rough almost stalls. i think its all in timing! grrr
ill let ya know about the timing shortly. what u mean 180 off?

hgoy

ok i aligned the marks on the distributor gear the head and the dist. casing, when i stab it the mark on the gear finally sets about a 1/4 in to the left and the rotor is pointing about 10 or eleven, is this correct. started it up runs great good power idle is wayyyyy high...

hgoy

stabbed distributor! fixed a broken (sorta cable) runs like a dream! actually idle is a little low now hee hee.! grat power to boot! thx for all ur help!

xxxtreme22r

what "cable" was broken? So others with the same problem know and can understand what the fix was.

hgoy

its the cable that goes to the rt side of the throttle, goes to a vacume canister on the driversside inner fender, the casing of the cable had cracked ,and pulled out a bit , that made it about a 1/8 to a 1/4 in linger pulling on the throttle not tletting the throttle close all the way i cut both ends flat and JB Welded it together runs great now

hgoy

all runs gret now, but there is a metal scrubbing noise i thought it mught be the fake water pump but checked it, free play is good no binding, dont know where its comming from . grrrrr. I checked the accessory items ( alt, compressor, and ps pump) not it either. dont know what it could be . like i said sounds like it could be comming form the area or the fake water pump, any ideas?

cracker_1

Use a large screw driver as a stethoscope to pinpoint the noise. Place the screw driver on various areas and see if you can isolate the noise.

hgoy

did it, its the "fake wqter pump". went to autozone 159 $ called toyota , they only sell it with the pullies and the fan and clutch, $981, yes thats right 981!!!!!! thats seemed a little outrageous for a part like a pulley bracket for a 1994 vehicle. damn they are greedy!! anyways then guy at autozone messed something up so i got it for $99 should be hiere on friday

fpbrown

i was thinking of buying one of those motors. i unfortunatley do not posses the time, knowledge, tools, or shop to do it! how much do you yota smart guys think a shop would charge to pull mine dat has a blown head and drop the new one in?

thanks

camo31_10.50

Fake Water Pump..............................???????


you mean the fan pulley bracket?

if so you can get it at a junkyard for cheap.

Swim

Now that you've got the engine running nicely, here are some tips. I've got a similar engine, check my build thread.

1. The higher performance engines like mid to premium grade. I tried the low grade and it ran like poo.

2. Advance the timing. I'm currently running at 12 BTDC, but I'm cranking it to 15 BTDC this afternoon. I had it there for a bit, but was on low grade gas and it was pinging.

3. Let her breathe!! Get the bored out (6mm) throttle body and she'll purr even better.

4. Open up the exhaust. If you're not already it's time to upgrade to a better exhaust. I just added a flowmaster super 44, with plans on doing the headers later. The increased power is crazy.

Wrenchinjoe

What bored out TB do you speak of?

Swim

DOA can do it. I had mine done by my machine shop. I also have upgraded injectors.

Got the timing up to 15^ and she purrrrs!

93pointslow

So how does she run for you now that it's been a couple months. Are you more than happy with the engine? hows the power feel? I am literally ordering the same "super stock" 3VZE from Oregon Engine Rebuilders tomorrow. Also the Doug Thorley ceramic headers from Summit. Looking for some injectors. Any advise would be appreciated. i will post my project

Swim

Honestly, it's still fine. I love it. No problems