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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

2WD Low Range

Old 01-08-2012, 06:49 PM
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2WD Low Range

I have a 1991 3vze pickup and use it for a lot of work around my property or gathering firewood. Which makes 1st gear in 2WD a bit tall. I end up using 4 Lo alot but hate how it binds up when turning.

I modified the electrical relay that supplies the vaccum to engage the front differential. By cutting the positive wire and patching in a wire that runs into the dash and hooking a switch up on the end. This allows me to put the transfer case in 4lo but have it act like 2Lo.

If you are driving along and want to use 4wd, a simple flip of the switch on the dash will engage the front differential. I did notice that you can't disengage the front diff without taking the transfer case out of 4wd first, flip the switch "Off" and then put the transfer case back in 4lo.

This allows me to have slow speeds without binding the front end but can still use it for my daily driver. Thought I would share my mod.

Justin
Attached Thumbnails 2WD Low Range-dscn0453.jpg  
Old 01-08-2012, 07:14 PM
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I mean run two wires to the dash and hook a switch up between the two.
Old 01-08-2012, 07:20 PM
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Another good thing about having manual locking hubs:

No mods, extra shifters, or extra effort required for 2 Low operation. Just shift into 4 Low and drive...without locking the hubs first...of course.

I guess it is a little extra effort if you need to get out and unlock 'em first. Not much more though...in comparison.
Old 01-08-2012, 07:26 PM
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I like that, going to show this to my cousin
Old 01-08-2012, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MudHippy
Another good thing about having manual locking hubs:

No mods, extra shifters, or extra effort required for 2 Low operation. Just shift into 4 Low and drive...without locking the hubs first...of course.
I do this daily.
Backing into driveway or just crawling along in traffic on freeway.
Old 01-08-2012, 07:37 PM
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Makes sense about the manual hubs. But for $3 and it's up and running. Maybe someday I can get some manual hubs.
Old 01-08-2012, 08:00 PM
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The idea of having additional electrical mess determining whether or not my 4wd works worries me.

I got my manual hubs for like $80.
Old 01-08-2012, 08:13 PM
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I can tell if the front diff is engaged by the light on the dash. If the switch is off (in 2 Lo) then the "4wd" light won't be on even though the transfer case is in 4Lo. I've had it setup this way for about a year now and haven't had any issues, but I understand what you mean. Simple is better.
Old 01-08-2012, 08:33 PM
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Yeah manual hubs are the way to go. Mine were only $50 locally. Also puts less wear and tear on the front end especially the CVs
Old 01-08-2012, 08:38 PM
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Are $50 manual hubs new or used? Thanks.
Old 01-08-2012, 09:03 PM
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Used OEM Aisins. After someone SAS's there yotas they are practically giving away there old parts. Keep an eye on craigslist or the classifieds on here.

The guy I bought my hubs from wanted $50 for the whole IFS setup with hubs, CVs, control arms, brakes and everything. I would have taken it but dont have that much room to store anything so I just gave him the $50 and snagged up the hubs.
Old 01-28-2013, 03:03 PM
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I got manual hubs for 20 bucks at a junkyard..... cool idea and application
Old 01-28-2013, 06:44 PM
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You guys think the yota a.d.d. system is bad, borrow someones jeep for a day.

AS far as what this threads about:

The A.D.D. system a luxury, luxuries are more money and maintenance. If you can afford it and want it, then F what everybody else thinks, do it. And if you can modify a luxury to make it even cooler like the OP did, then definitely go for it. Now he doesnt have to get out to lock and unlock hubs when he wants to select between 2lo and 4lo.

I have a simular mod in 01 taco. Except I just unplugged a T-case sensor. The one that senses 4lo on the t-case shifter and tells the front diff to engage. So when you put it in 4lo its 2lo until you push the 4wd button, then its 4lo again. Very easy mod, absolutely no side affects. All 4wd lights and gismos still work, just with an extra option.
Old 01-29-2013, 12:01 AM
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I liked this idea. Its been done a few times w/ fj62 cruisers.
I'm thinking that i can use the ADD system, manual hubs, and an autolocker as a poor man's electric locker. I'm prob one of the only people considering adding ADD to my truck, and for the reasons above. Once the ADD system fails, i'll prob reconsider.
Old 01-29-2013, 03:16 PM
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Nice mod, if I hadn't sold my 2000 4R I may have looked into a similar mod.
Old 04-16-2017, 08:08 AM
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Hey everyone. I ended up putting together a video for another site showing how this mod functions, so I figured i'd update this thread. Thanks.

Justin

Old 04-17-2017, 03:04 AM
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Cool stuff. Maybe a good opportunity to ask a question in the nature of this stuff: I have never seen this asked before but out of curiosity, can you leave your front hubs unlocked and drive in 4hi on the road? I don't think 4hi is geared the same way as 2hi, so... Lol my friend drives a few miles to work and the 4:10s don't like the 33s. We've looked into regearing but it would cost a LOT. if he can just put the case in 4hi wouldn't that lower the ratio a bit? Wouldn't be on the interstate. Just a backroad doing around 45. Again, I know the gears aren't right just wondering
Old 04-17-2017, 05:09 AM
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You can put the transfer case is 4HI with the hubs unlocked on the highway without any risk of damage. This will spin the front driveline but since the hubs are disconnected there will be no torque transfer from the CV's to the wheels. Unfortunately, it won't do anything for your problem. There is no gearing difference between 2HI and 4HI. Both are 1:1. Factory low range is 2.28:1. If there was a gearing difference between 2HI and 4HI you wouldn't be able to shift from 2HI to 4HI when moving. But as I hope you are aware, you most certainly can do this when the hubs are locked at pretty much any speed so long as there isn't any wheel slippage occurring.
Old 04-17-2017, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
You can put the transfer case is 4HI with the hubs unlocked on the highway without any risk of damage. This will spin the front driveline but since the hubs are disconnected there will be no torque transfer from the CV's to the wheels. Unfortunately, it won't do anything for your problem. There is no gearing difference between 2HI and 4HI. Both are 1:1. Factory low range is 2.28:1. If there was a gearing difference between 2HI and 4HI you wouldn't be able to shift from 2HI to 4HI when moving. But as I hope you are aware, you most certainly can do this when the hubs are locked at pretty much any speed so long as there isn't any wheel slippage occurring.
Probably why I haven't seen anyone suggest that on all of the 4:10 / 33s threads lol. Thanks
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