2nd Gen. 4Runner Windshield Washer Pump Replacement
07-26-2011, 06:44 PM
#1
2nd Gen. 4Runner Windshield Washer Pump Replacement
I did a search, and didn't come up with anything definitive, so here's a brief write-up for a simple repair.
The windshield washer reservoir is located forward of the battery on the passenger side of the vehicle.
There is a single screw that holds the battery clamp down, and another single screw that holds the reservoir in. Really. I was expecting at least one more.
On the passenger side of the reservoir, there is a two-wire harness and a fluid tube, and on the driver's side, there is also a two-wire harness and a fluid tube.
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Undo and set aside battery clamp (optionally, you can take the whole battery out to give yourself a bit more room. I didn't need to).
3) Undo driver and passenger side wiring harnesses. Follow the wires from the pumps (both on the driver side; one on top of the other) to the harnesses.
4) Undo the plumbing at the pumps. My tubes came right off.
By this point, you should have undone four connections to the reservoir.
5) Undo the screw that secures the reservoir bracket to the front engine bay cross brace. It is approximately two inches to the driver's side of the battery clamp screw.
6) Lift the reservoir straight up and out of the bay. There should be no resistance.
As I mentioned earlier, the windshield pump is the lower pump, and the rear window pump is the upper. They are the same part and are interchangeable.
My local dealer could not track any down, so I went the Autozone route. They were identical in every way, except they were without the factory style harnesses. They also did not include the ribbon clamp that secured each pump to the reservoir.
TAAP Corporation/Autozone part number 5-768. I paid $14.99 each.
They're reasonably well made, and easy enough to get to that if they go out earlier than the Denso ones, it's not a big deal. I bet they cost a quarter of the dealer part.
Be advised that the reservoir is old plastic. Use your fingers and hand tools only. Even then the reservoir might crack.
7) Undo the single screw securing each pump to the reservoir (use WD-40 or PB Blaster if they're rusted) and set them aside. You're going to re-use them.
8) Gently wiggle each pump out of the reservoir. A little graphite dry lubricant might help. Be patient and go slow.
9) Take the ribbon clamps off the old pumps and put them on the new ones, paying attention to the orientation.
10) Put the new grommets in the holes in the reservoir, and then gently walk the new pumps in. Secure the ribbon straps to the reservoir using that screw you set aside earlier. Don't go crazy tightening it.
11) We're going to recycle the pigtail on the upper (rear) pump. Cut it off close to the old pump, and wire it to your new pump. My new pumps were labeled (+) and (-). In both cases, the#2 terminal was the positive side on my harnesses.
12) On the lower pump, mine had a lot more slack wire, so I chose this one to make the hard splice. I left it long enough that I can take the reservoir completely out without disconnecting the wires. I hate cutting factory harnesses apart, but this time it seemed worth it. Use butt connectors to splice the wires together and tape the heck out of them when you're done.
13) Fill your reservoir with some water and see if it leaks anywhere. You will likely see water coming out of the hose nipples. This is not a problem.
14) Empty the water out.
15) Reconnect wires and hoses and then carefully put the reservoir back in place. Tighten the retaining screw finger tight and fill the reservoir half way with washer fluid.
16) Reconnect the battery, hop in and test the sprayers. You might have to bump them a few times to prime them.
If everything looks good, tighten everything up, replace the battery clamp and you're done.
While this is very simple electrical, it is electrical and you should treat it with respect. Be sure all your crimps and connections are tight and put all the wires in corrugated wire wrap. The engine bay get hot and wires rub on stuff. This is the ideal environment for shorts and fires.
Wire wrap and zip ties are your friends.
If you find a pinhole in your reservoir, it can usually be fixed with marine silicone sealant or two part epoxy (JB Weld and the like). Larger cracks can be fixed with fiberglass and epoxy.
I thought my reservoir was leaking, but both pumps had basically disintegrated.
I hope this helps! Not life-saving by any means, but it's nice to have working washers.
The windshield washer reservoir is located forward of the battery on the passenger side of the vehicle.
There is a single screw that holds the battery clamp down, and another single screw that holds the reservoir in. Really. I was expecting at least one more.
On the passenger side of the reservoir, there is a two-wire harness and a fluid tube, and on the driver's side, there is also a two-wire harness and a fluid tube.
1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Undo and set aside battery clamp (optionally, you can take the whole battery out to give yourself a bit more room. I didn't need to).
3) Undo driver and passenger side wiring harnesses. Follow the wires from the pumps (both on the driver side; one on top of the other) to the harnesses.
4) Undo the plumbing at the pumps. My tubes came right off.
By this point, you should have undone four connections to the reservoir.
5) Undo the screw that secures the reservoir bracket to the front engine bay cross brace. It is approximately two inches to the driver's side of the battery clamp screw.
6) Lift the reservoir straight up and out of the bay. There should be no resistance.
As I mentioned earlier, the windshield pump is the lower pump, and the rear window pump is the upper. They are the same part and are interchangeable.
My local dealer could not track any down, so I went the Autozone route. They were identical in every way, except they were without the factory style harnesses. They also did not include the ribbon clamp that secured each pump to the reservoir.
TAAP Corporation/Autozone part number 5-768. I paid $14.99 each.
They're reasonably well made, and easy enough to get to that if they go out earlier than the Denso ones, it's not a big deal. I bet they cost a quarter of the dealer part.
Be advised that the reservoir is old plastic. Use your fingers and hand tools only. Even then the reservoir might crack.
7) Undo the single screw securing each pump to the reservoir (use WD-40 or PB Blaster if they're rusted) and set them aside. You're going to re-use them.
8) Gently wiggle each pump out of the reservoir. A little graphite dry lubricant might help. Be patient and go slow.
9) Take the ribbon clamps off the old pumps and put them on the new ones, paying attention to the orientation.
10) Put the new grommets in the holes in the reservoir, and then gently walk the new pumps in. Secure the ribbon straps to the reservoir using that screw you set aside earlier. Don't go crazy tightening it.
11) We're going to recycle the pigtail on the upper (rear) pump. Cut it off close to the old pump, and wire it to your new pump. My new pumps were labeled (+) and (-). In both cases, the#2 terminal was the positive side on my harnesses.
12) On the lower pump, mine had a lot more slack wire, so I chose this one to make the hard splice. I left it long enough that I can take the reservoir completely out without disconnecting the wires. I hate cutting factory harnesses apart, but this time it seemed worth it. Use butt connectors to splice the wires together and tape the heck out of them when you're done.
13) Fill your reservoir with some water and see if it leaks anywhere. You will likely see water coming out of the hose nipples. This is not a problem.
14) Empty the water out.
15) Reconnect wires and hoses and then carefully put the reservoir back in place. Tighten the retaining screw finger tight and fill the reservoir half way with washer fluid.
16) Reconnect the battery, hop in and test the sprayers. You might have to bump them a few times to prime them.
If everything looks good, tighten everything up, replace the battery clamp and you're done.
While this is very simple electrical, it is electrical and you should treat it with respect. Be sure all your crimps and connections are tight and put all the wires in corrugated wire wrap. The engine bay get hot and wires rub on stuff. This is the ideal environment for shorts and fires.
Wire wrap and zip ties are your friends.
If you find a pinhole in your reservoir, it can usually be fixed with marine silicone sealant or two part epoxy (JB Weld and the like). Larger cracks can be fixed with fiberglass and epoxy.
I thought my reservoir was leaking, but both pumps had basically disintegrated.
I hope this helps! Not life-saving by any means, but it's nice to have working washers.
07-27-2011, 08:46 AM
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ToyotaViejo.. Nice write up. You are right about them being brittle. Another trick I learned is that alot of these pumps are frozen up.
I have got two of these pumps to work by pulling the tank and connecting some leads to each of the wires to the pump and by switching the polarity to a battery. Basically working the pump forward and backwards for about 1 second at a time each way.
Once I hear it break itself free and running. I install it to the way it should be, fill with water and run some water for 15-30 seconds at a time. Not a high tech fix but usually will work.
Also a 4runner bottle will work in the pickups if you get one from a salvage.
I have got two of these pumps to work by pulling the tank and connecting some leads to each of the wires to the pump and by switching the polarity to a battery. Basically working the pump forward and backwards for about 1 second at a time each way.
Once I hear it break itself free and running. I install it to the way it should be, fill with water and run some water for 15-30 seconds at a time. Not a high tech fix but usually will work.
Also a 4runner bottle will work in the pickups if you get one from a salvage.
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