Bill

So, after much procrastinating, I've finally got my 22RTE apart, and am ready to start making the big part decisions.

I'm a little stuck on what to do about the head though. My original thought was to go with the EB Street RV head. However, some reading and my wallet have brought that into question. Because I'm building a forced induction motor, upping valve size isn't as big an issue. Plus(in no way slagging EB), the EB over sized valves are only 0.84mm and 0.61mm over stock (intake and exhaust respecitivley). But I do like the idea of the higher compression head. So I've come up with 3 options:

1) Use my stock 22RTE head w/ local PNP:
Pro:
cheapest option
can get exactly the port I want, cause I get to talk to the machinist

Con:
lower compression
smaller exhaust valve

2) Get a (used)stock 22RE head w/ local PNP (local toyota parts guy)
Pro:
higher compression
can get exactly the port I want, cause I get to talk to the machinist
could sell stock head to make up $$$

Con:
more stuff to buy
smaller exhaust valve

3) New Street RV head from EB
Pro:
Big valves
Ted and Tod know what their doing!
Everything is new
Could sell stock head to make up $$$

Con:
$$$



Darin, I know you're going to read this: if I had the money to go with one of Tim's heads I would in a heart beat, but it's just not in the budget...stupid school.

Merry Christmas!

dcg9381

Hey, I understand the budget part of it. I was in school at one time and remember having to squirm and save for a set of 1.7 roller rockers for my Mustang. Owning a 22ReallyTerriblyExpensive would have put me out of business.

Maybe you can help here by detailing the ballpark costs?

A few things - one advantage that you left out of the 22re head over the 22rte head is a thicker casting. Ted's head - I believe it's TopLine has an even beefier casting still, based on what I've read about it (there seems to be some variations in OEM 22RE heads).

Here's what I don't know: On a turbo application, which is more important: Valve size or port work? I don't which one will cause flow issues up front. If you're keeping a stock CT20, it could all be a non issue.. Dunno.

Also, I don't believe the 22rte and 22re have a different valve size on the exhaust. DOA racing (Tim) says that the exhaust valve on the 22rte is a different material designed to handle heat better.. You could always swap over the exhaust valves from on your 22rte. Also, how those valves compare to Ted's stainless setup in terms of dealing with heat??

Have you considered doing some port work yourself? Standard abrasives makes a good kit and really all you need is a single carbide bit to do material removal. I'm not suggesting that you do serious DOA style port work, but maybe do some gasket matching and clean up the intake area... Here's a photo of my 81 pickup head, it's 22r, engnbldr valves, and the port work that I did. I mainly did some material removal on the intake and polished it all down (not too fine, needs to be a little rough). Exhaust side was smoothed out. Ted's valves were used.




So my "budget" choice would be - a 22RTE head, order Ted's valves, port it yourself, and have your local machine shop put the valves in (make sure they do some mild work to the bowl area)

Bill

Well, I've done some turbo reading(not just 22RTE), and it seemed that the general consensus was that the Port was more important that valve size. As long as it "flows like crazy".

Again, 100% true, I don't know, but it's something to think about.

The advantage I was thinking with Teds head, was the larger exhaust valve. Sure the FI might be able to ush more air through the stock size intake valve, but its still up to the motor to push it all out the exhaust valve. Plus, I do like the idea of the thicker casting, especially as the mercury drops it'll give me a bit more of a saftey net.


Here's the ball park costs I've gottem from some local shops(Cdn $$$):
PNP: ~$300+, and the lowest I heard to do valves was about $500 with the PNP. But most shops I talked to were a bit hesitant about bigger valves and working withsome one elses parts.

I can pick up a good 22RE head for about $150


I'd honestly never considered a "do it yourself" approach to this one. Didn't even know there were kits to do it. I think that would be an option though that I'll keep in the back of my mind for later projects. As I'm sure is the case with alot of people: I'm willing to spend a couple bucks more to not have to do it again. If I could afford to screw up, I'd love to try. I might go with this to clean up the exhaust manifold though to match any exhaust work.

I'm probably (more than likley)going to end up going with Ted's head. I've been talking to a local guy with a busted 22RTE than needs a head, so if it all works out I selling my stock top end will bring down my head work cost to very reasonable.

Faded

IMHO, I would worry more about getting the squish right (engbldr mentions this) and a 'proper' 3-angle valve job over port work and possibly over valve size. Ideally more is better (larger valves, porting, etc), but it's hard to justify it all when the wallet is drawing the line.

Toyotatechjeff

So how rough do you have to leave the port job