22re WON'T START
10-08-2012, 01:42 PM
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22re WON'T START
So today i let my roomate borrow my truck and long story short now its getting towed home. I have to diagnose it at home when i'm off work but was hopping to get a little help here first to hopefully get my dd back on the road asap.
He said it started loosing power and acted like it wanted to die while on the freeway so he pulled over. It then died and now it won't start. It just turns over but won't fire up.
He said he shook the cat and it sounds like there's sand in there, so he's thinking my cat may be clogged. So he went to lunch to let it cool, came back an hour later and it still wouldn't fire. Although shouldn't the truck at least run but run bad if its clogged?
There's no way of me knowing if he ran it hard or like a dumbass before this happened but he said he didn't and i believe him as he's a trustworthy and loyal dude. And its pointless for me to start acusations when i have no proof.
I haven't been home to check fuses yet nor did he as the box is underneath my coilover resis so he couldn't find it. Hopefully its just a fuel pump fuse or relay. I know how to check for spark, if i have spark and the alternator i just put in test good i'll check for fuel pressure.
How do i check the fuel pressure in these trucks? This is my first 22re so i'm still figuring it all out.
I should mention the recent motor work i've done;
i just replaced the alternator 3 weeks ago with a stock amperage o-reily unit. I'm thinkging/hoping this went out and i can get another on warrenty. while rallying the other night my lights and hella's were flickering quite a bit so i'm hoping i may have a bad alternator.
Did a new radiator at the same time with toyota specific red fluid
Also at the same time i put in all new 1 gauge battery cables and grounds and a yellow top battery.
Is it possible this wiring is too thick and it causing a short at the fuel relay/fuse?
Couple months ago i did the timing chain and guides that included:the engbldr.com kit with a new metal guide, new chain tensioner, new chain, new water pump, new chain sprockets, new spark plugs and all new seals. I did this without taking the head off and its ran fine for a few months.
What else affects the startability of these trucks? TPS? AFM?
91 2wd
Thanks in advance for any input,
Mike
He said it started loosing power and acted like it wanted to die while on the freeway so he pulled over. It then died and now it won't start. It just turns over but won't fire up.
He said he shook the cat and it sounds like there's sand in there, so he's thinking my cat may be clogged. So he went to lunch to let it cool, came back an hour later and it still wouldn't fire. Although shouldn't the truck at least run but run bad if its clogged?
There's no way of me knowing if he ran it hard or like a dumbass before this happened but he said he didn't and i believe him as he's a trustworthy and loyal dude. And its pointless for me to start acusations when i have no proof.
I haven't been home to check fuses yet nor did he as the box is underneath my coilover resis so he couldn't find it. Hopefully its just a fuel pump fuse or relay. I know how to check for spark, if i have spark and the alternator i just put in test good i'll check for fuel pressure.
How do i check the fuel pressure in these trucks? This is my first 22re so i'm still figuring it all out.
I should mention the recent motor work i've done;
i just replaced the alternator 3 weeks ago with a stock amperage o-reily unit. I'm thinkging/hoping this went out and i can get another on warrenty. while rallying the other night my lights and hella's were flickering quite a bit so i'm hoping i may have a bad alternator.
Did a new radiator at the same time with toyota specific red fluid
Also at the same time i put in all new 1 gauge battery cables and grounds and a yellow top battery.
Is it possible this wiring is too thick and it causing a short at the fuel relay/fuse?
Couple months ago i did the timing chain and guides that included:the engbldr.com kit with a new metal guide, new chain tensioner, new chain, new water pump, new chain sprockets, new spark plugs and all new seals. I did this without taking the head off and its ran fine for a few months.
What else affects the startability of these trucks? TPS? AFM?
91 2wd
Thanks in advance for any input,
Mike
10-12-2012, 10:53 AM
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Sometimes threads get bumped down and can get lost and if someone doesnt know how to find one that get knocked off the list. Not sure if your last reply will help you out any.
You said you know how to check for spark. Did you? I take a can of starting fluid and shoot some down the intake and then up the hose back on and try to start it. This will tell you if it is a firing problem or fuel problem.
Unless the cat is 100% clogged which I doubt it should still start. Fuel filter would be my best guess, but without more info it could be anything.
Check all vacuum lines, connections. Another way I check to see if fuel is getting to the rail is to crack loose the fuel connection to the Cold Start injector and bump the ignition. It will spray fuel real quick.
Post #664 on this link has some no start fuel problems.>>>https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index27.html
You may have a firing issue which is the other half, timing,coil,distributor....
You said you know how to check for spark. Did you? I take a can of starting fluid and shoot some down the intake and then up the hose back on and try to start it. This will tell you if it is a firing problem or fuel problem.
Unless the cat is 100% clogged which I doubt it should still start. Fuel filter would be my best guess, but without more info it could be anything.
Check all vacuum lines, connections. Another way I check to see if fuel is getting to the rail is to crack loose the fuel connection to the Cold Start injector and bump the ignition. It will spray fuel real quick.
Post #664 on this link has some no start fuel problems.>>>https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index27.html
You may have a firing issue which is the other half, timing,coil,distributor....
10-12-2012, 10:59 AM
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Well when i first opened my hood i found an unplugged distributor cap wire for cyl #3 so i plugged in and no go. i have no spark. I replaced the coil and plug wires and still no spark. I either need a new dizzy or igniter. Dizzy plug tested 174 which is only 10 under spec. I sanded down cap rotor and dizzy cap terminals and still no go.
My alt tested good and all my grounds and wires are snug.
all fuses are good and essential relays tested good.
I didn't bother to test for fuel as it reaked of fuel when I cranked it.
Oh and there's not water in oil or vice versa and my dizzy cap rotates so the chain ain't broken and my head gasket should be good.
My alt tested good and all my grounds and wires are snug.
all fuses are good and essential relays tested good.
I didn't bother to test for fuel as it reaked of fuel when I cranked it.
Oh and there's not water in oil or vice versa and my dizzy cap rotates so the chain ain't broken and my head gasket should be good.
10-12-2012, 12:09 PM
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Thanks yprior...
I dont know how to check an Igniter. It is a possibility, but your coil should be .5 to .7 ohms for the primary and 11.4 to 15.6k Ohms on the secondary. I have had bad coils. Haynes 5-2. From my experience the Igniter is a really solid piece of equipment so will see how the coil test first and would suggest coming back to the Igniter later. Do the easy and cheaper checks first.
Even if your distributor cap was in bad shape and I have seen some bad ones, you should get something so I would elminate that for now, but sounds like later on you should replace it. You would have other issues if it was a headgasket so could eliminate that.
Since you are smelling fuel, I would tackle it from the firing side instead of the fuel side which it sounds like you are and think you are going in the right direction of cap,dizzy,coil and igniter.
Even if your alternator was completely dead, you could charge the battery and it would run for awhile unless it is possible for it to have a major short in it that I am unaware of that could shut it down. I actually have a bad alternator on one of my projects now and can still start it, so I am am going to suggest elminating the alternator for now.
If it is cranking at a good solid speed, I feel your battery is charged enough to get some fire going thru the ignition which is leading me back to the coil or igniter. I would throw it on a battery charger or at least jump it with another car for now just to elminate the battery.
Just for giggles, I would check and make sure your distributor bolt didnt loosen and let your dizzy rotate. From my experience it will rotate to far advance but still run, but cant hurt to check.
I dont know how to check an Igniter. It is a possibility, but your coil should be .5 to .7 ohms for the primary and 11.4 to 15.6k Ohms on the secondary. I have had bad coils. Haynes 5-2. From my experience the Igniter is a really solid piece of equipment so will see how the coil test first and would suggest coming back to the Igniter later. Do the easy and cheaper checks first.
Even if your distributor cap was in bad shape and I have seen some bad ones, you should get something so I would elminate that for now, but sounds like later on you should replace it. You would have other issues if it was a headgasket so could eliminate that.
Since you are smelling fuel, I would tackle it from the firing side instead of the fuel side which it sounds like you are and think you are going in the right direction of cap,dizzy,coil and igniter.
Even if your alternator was completely dead, you could charge the battery and it would run for awhile unless it is possible for it to have a major short in it that I am unaware of that could shut it down. I actually have a bad alternator on one of my projects now and can still start it, so I am am going to suggest elminating the alternator for now.
If it is cranking at a good solid speed, I feel your battery is charged enough to get some fire going thru the ignition which is leading me back to the coil or igniter. I would throw it on a battery charger or at least jump it with another car for now just to elminate the battery.
Just for giggles, I would check and make sure your distributor bolt didnt loosen and let your dizzy rotate. From my experience it will rotate to far advance but still run, but cant hurt to check.
Last edited by Terrys87; 10-12-2012 at 12:14 PM.
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10-12-2012, 05:23 PM
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No problem. Use Google and type in "22re wont start (space)yotatech", I get better results doing that way instead of using the search feature on here. Also RAD4Runner has some outstanding write ups on his thread Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-252300/ and I will try to do some thinking on this and see what I can come up with. I wont get home til after work tomorrow.
10-15-2012, 10:44 AM
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still won't start. i know my ecu is sending over 12volts to the igniter and the igniter is sending out 12volts to the coil. When i ground out the body of the igniter with the ignition switched on i hear a relay click in the center of the engine by the fuel rail perhaps. I'm not sure which switch/relay it is.
10-15-2012, 11:34 AM
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Something to check if you do have spark, your trucks fuse box is under the hood I believe on the passengers’ side. The EFI relay and EFI fuse should be there, and if your cover still has the markings it will tell you which is which. I had trouble with my 89 because the EFI relay was not getting full power to open the relay, to open the injectors. The EFI fuse was good; I just had corrosion on the outbound side. If you do not have the marking on your cover here is a link; http://4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml#Electrical
I hope this helps. Good luck.
I hope this helps. Good luck.
Last edited by Torlog; 10-15-2012 at 11:35 AM.
10-15-2012, 12:08 PM
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i checked all the fuses and realys in that box multiple times and there all good with no corrosion and the two relays in there had 73 ohms of resistance which should be good. The check engine light is always on when your starting the car. My truck just wont start so i don't know if it will stay on.
I have no spark, i took out a plug, grounded it to several different spots and it wouldn't spark. Hence my dealings with the ignition parts.
I have no spark, i took out a plug, grounded it to several different spots and it wouldn't spark. Hence my dealings with the ignition parts.
10-15-2012, 02:35 PM
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look up how to get the blink codes, you have to jumper 2 points in the diagnostic port. the truck doesn't need to be running to get the blink codes. I know a haynes manual will give you the procedure plus what the codes mean.
10-15-2012, 02:52 PM
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yeah i found that here but don't have the tachometer listed here http://ncttora.com/fsm/1993/ignition/1precauti.pdf that it calls for.
ps i wanna see your cantelever rear set up... purty please.
10-15-2012, 03:18 PM
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You don't need a tach unless your setting idle speed. Just jumper terminals T and E1 then turn the key to the on position. The check engine light will display any codes in ecu.
10-15-2012, 03:26 PM
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awesome so now what is an sst? I need this to get the blink codes. Is this just an accronym to jump the two terminals? Sorry i'm horrible at testing electrical.
nvm google is my friend as always. sst= standard service tool. But in my case i don't have one so i can use some spare copper wire i have laying around and use it to connect the two terminals.
Sweet thanks for the help guys.
Last edited by 87xjmike; 10-15-2012 at 03:41 PM.
10-15-2012, 06:54 PM
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Well I jumped the two terms and the blinker just blinked with the two per second pattern which is normal operating mode. So my blinker indicator indicated zilch, no problem pattern codes. I'm at a loss as to what to do and am about to call a mobile mechanic as my ˟˟˟˟ing ducati decided to stop shifting while riding it home today so now I really need this going ASAP.
