22re timing chain
06-09-2009, 11:30 AM
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22re timing chain
It seems as if I need a new timing chain in my 22re. I was hearing a ticking noise, and after some looking around, i removed the valve cover and looked down in there and saw that the chain was rubbing up against the metal and had rubbed away a small amount of metal from the cover. Now, I assume that this means that the driver's side guide broke. My question is, is this a hard fix to do by myself, I have very little mechanical knowledge, but I have a variety of mechanical tools from my dad. I have also seen various walkthroughs on the internet, but it all seems kinds of scary all the stuff I have to take off. Thanks
06-09-2009, 01:03 PM
#2
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Hey give it a try, i had to remove my cyl head recently, (broken spark plug),.
i had never done something like that before, i just used Shop man, googled for engine pics and took my time, tape and mark all lines n tubes. i had taken a large roll of blank news print , covered a 4x8 plywood sheet, and marked in order on the paper what i took off, looked a mess but i got through it, ps change out fuel filter , while you can see it, and torque the fittings, i had not and when i started it fuel was squirting out all over, to make a long story short take ya time, drink beer after ya done
i had never done something like that before, i just used Shop man, googled for engine pics and took my time, tape and mark all lines n tubes. i had taken a large roll of blank news print , covered a 4x8 plywood sheet, and marked in order on the paper what i took off, looked a mess but i got through it, ps change out fuel filter , while you can see it, and torque the fittings, i had not and when i started it fuel was squirting out all over, to make a long story short take ya time, drink beer after ya done
06-09-2009, 02:58 PM
#4
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Yeah, you need to get it done. I have quite a bit of mechanical knowledge, but its not my line of work; I'm an "office pinky." Had no metric tools. Cost to have it done is (w.a.g.) $800 plus minus a few hundred. Motivated me. printed the online "how to do its w/o removing the head or pan". My biggest worry was about breaking loose the big crank screw. Rounded up all of the parts: some rockauto some enginebuilder some Toyota, bought some harbor freight metric tools, took a deep breath and waded in.
Crank screw was no problem. Put it in 4th gear and applied the parking brake and it unscrewed easily with a 1/2 flex handel and 19mm socket. I bought a good impact socket from Sears just to be sure. Didn't even need any pipe extension on it. Bigger problem was a couple fasteners that were hidden pretty good. One I especially remember was the formerly flexible, now hard as a rock grommets at the valve cover hold down nuts. Treat them just like nuts and I used a vise grips I think to spin them off. Next biggest hassle was scraping gaskets and cleaning mounting surfaces. Actual install was easy enough. I didn't remove the pan or head. I was careful and lucky not to damage the gaslkets, I guess, because I used Permatex grey to install and no leaks. Runs great since then about 15,000 miles. Before I removed the distributor, I made a couple light prick punch marks to reinstall it same advance.
One other thing, I bought a new timing cover from engnbldr, just in case and used it since the original was deeply grooved. I could not get the two screws in that fasten the front of the pan to the bottom of the cover. Just would not line up. I at first thought maybe too much RTV, but I now think it just didn't line up. Everything els about the timing cover seemd first rate--nice casting and machine work. In any case it doesn't leak. Doing it again I would mockup the parts dry to check fits before assembling for keeps.
I think I have some notes I took on it, pm me if I can help out. Good Luck! ps there are pieces floating around in the pan. I don't worry about it; as long as the red light doesn't come on, I'm cool...
Crank screw was no problem. Put it in 4th gear and applied the parking brake and it unscrewed easily with a 1/2 flex handel and 19mm socket. I bought a good impact socket from Sears just to be sure. Didn't even need any pipe extension on it. Bigger problem was a couple fasteners that were hidden pretty good. One I especially remember was the formerly flexible, now hard as a rock grommets at the valve cover hold down nuts. Treat them just like nuts and I used a vise grips I think to spin them off. Next biggest hassle was scraping gaskets and cleaning mounting surfaces. Actual install was easy enough. I didn't remove the pan or head. I was careful and lucky not to damage the gaslkets, I guess, because I used Permatex grey to install and no leaks. Runs great since then about 15,000 miles. Before I removed the distributor, I made a couple light prick punch marks to reinstall it same advance.
One other thing, I bought a new timing cover from engnbldr, just in case and used it since the original was deeply grooved. I could not get the two screws in that fasten the front of the pan to the bottom of the cover. Just would not line up. I at first thought maybe too much RTV, but I now think it just didn't line up. Everything els about the timing cover seemd first rate--nice casting and machine work. In any case it doesn't leak. Doing it again I would mockup the parts dry to check fits before assembling for keeps.
I think I have some notes I took on it, pm me if I can help out. Good Luck! ps there are pieces floating around in the pan. I don't worry about it; as long as the red light doesn't come on, I'm cool...
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