TravRich

I'm having problems getting my 87 pickup to pass smog. The entire engine is stock and it has 240k miles. It has had all of it's fluids changed, timing adjusted and a new cat since I bought it a month ago.I've done some searching around on here and google and came up with some possible solutions and I'd like your input. Here are the results of my smog tests:

Before timing adjustment and new cat:
15mph RPMs: 1659, HC - meas: 184 max: 143, CO - meas: 3.01 max: 1.01, NO - meas: 310 max: 1128

25mph RPMs: 1729 HC - meas:212 max: 115, CO - meas: 2.65 max: 1.28, NO - meas: 281 max: 1205
Was told my RPMs where about 250 to high

After new cat and timing set back to factory:
15mph RPMs: 1591, HC - meas: 165 max: 143, CO - meas: 2.50 max: 1.01, NO - meas: 11 max: 1128

25mph RPMs: 1552 HC - meas: 204 max: 115, CO - meas: 2.65 max: 1.28, NO - meas: 11 max: 1205

TravRich

I've read about the guaranteed to pass engine cleaner, gonna run that through my truck. Take the test with premium gas and a new fuel filter. Replace my spark plugs and wires, o2 sensor, run my truck on the free way before the test to warn up the cat as well as over inflate my tires.

Does anyone else know any suggestions? Or had this problem with there 22re? Thanks for the help guys

scope103

All old-wives-tales. I don't doubt that someone did something like that and ended up passing, but it's clearly not solving anyone's problems.

Both your HC and CO are high; that is most likely a "rich" condition. Test the O2 Sensor. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...42oxygense.pdf

I know you don't have a code 26, but the troubleshooting steps for code 26 might give you some guidance. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26diagnosi.pdf

Check out http://www.autoshop101.com/ Technical Articles / Emissions Analysis for some other tips.

Gamefreakgc

Here's some condensed info from the good 'ol FSM:

• PCV Valve - Reduces blow–by gas (HC)
• EVAP - Reduces evaporative HC
• EGR - Reduces NOx
• PAIR - Reduces HC and CO
• CAT - Reduces HC, CO and NOx

Sorry, but the new cat wasn't going to fix anything since when it goes bad, all three categories go up. Your NOx passed the first time with room to spare.

Based off the list (after checking for any rich conditions), you'll want to check your PAIR Reed valve (located on the lower left side of the engine, looking from the bumper), PCV valve and EVAP system.

TravRich

Thanks for the advice, I'll start tearing into this weekend as i'm still working on my buddies truck. At this point I just want the truck to pass smog so I can register it, if I fix a issue in the process great. If not, that's what weekends are for.

TravRich

Could you point me in the direction of the EVAP system and pcv valve? And also possibly what I'd be checking for? I'm a diesel mechanic in the Marines, so i'm not vehicle retarded. This is just the first Toyota I've owned and the first vehicle of my own I've actually worked on.

dark_fairytales

Question, have you put a new O2 sensor in, and is the sensor a Denso or NGk.

If you have not replaced o2 sensor make sure you use only Denso or NGK, Bosch do not work correctly in these engines.

From you reading your combustion chamber is cool because the NOx levels are low. Currently it looks like you are running to rich, and I bet the O2 sensor is the reason.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Lean towards the PAIR, over the EVAP and PCV.

PAIR feeds extra oxygen to the cat to react with the exhaust gases, if the cat doesn't have enough fresh air it can only do so much.

PCV is the valve on the valve cover, cheap as chips not worth the time to test them just slap a new one on when ever you do tune ups. And replace the PCV grommet when it starts to get hard/inflexible.

EVAP is the canister(s) on the passenger side. This just channels the evaporated gas from the tank to the intake. If it's not working you just wind up with a bit of pressure in the fuel tank(whoosh noise when you fill up).


PS. don't forget to clean or replace the distributor cap and rotor, and check timing after.
Do your plugs get oil deposits, you can sneak by emissions with thick as snot oil if it's burning oil.

and x2 everything every one else had to say. The toyota stuff on autoshop101 is priceless!

TravRich

I haven't replaced the o2 sensor yet, and I haven't taken a look at my plugs since I bought it. I'll replace them this weekend with a new o2 sensor and pcv valve and grommet. As for the evap I do have a very strong "whoosh" sound when I remove the cap.

scope103

While your problem could be a bad PCV valve, if the grommet hasn't been replaced in the last 40,000 miles you're not going to be able to get it out without removing the plenum (upper intake manifold) and probably the valve cover. The grommet will be as hard as concrete, and if you've taken a look yet you can see it is in a very difficult to access location. Some have managed to replace just the PCV valve using specialty pliers when the grommet is still soft. But if you need to replace the grommet, I doubt you could ever get enough leverage on it. PLUS, when you destroy the grommet to remove it, you'll probably get bits of it inside the valve cover -- not good.

So .... you might defer that if your diagnoses point anywhere else.

That's normal.

Gamefreakgc

Be sure to test the O2 sensor before changing it out... a new DENSO cost roughly $90 bucks and it's not a sure fire fix. They are recommended to change every ~90k miles, so if you've had this truck a long time and don't remember it ever getting changed, it might be your issue.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Changing the PCV and grommet on the 22re is easy todo while you are doing the valve adjustment. A little bit more involved on the 6 cylinder like scope says.

The "whoosh" sound is it sucking or blowing. Blowing indicates maybe a problem with the evap system, sucking indicates a problem with the gas cap. The air intake is thru the gas cap, exhaust is thru the evap system.

The test and cleaning of the EVAP filter is in he manual.

If the charcoal canister fresh air intake is plugged it'll cause you to run slightly richer. since the evap gases aren't being propeerly diluted.

Denso Ox sensors are available on rockauto as well as some other online sources for under 50$.

But by all means do the mixture tests (the one at the diag port), this will clue you into if it's running rich.

TravRich

So denso o2 sensor, is there a certain brand plug wires, rotor or dist. I should pick up?

BamaYota1

You can pick up a Denso direct fit on eBay for about 30-40.

Sometimes you can get away with the cheaper parts house wires, caps and rotors, but the safe bet is always genuine Toyota for ignition parts.
And get the cheap Denso copper plugs.

TravRich

Is this the right o2 sensor?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...973&cc=1277502

cEElint

http://hondaswap.com/members-lounge/...ssions-501184/
Check this out..

BamaYota1

http://www.sparkplugs.com/product.aspx?zpid=17828

234-1056

TravRich

I started looking at my pcv valve/grommet. The gromets hard as a rock and cracked in several locations, so regardless I'm gonna replace them. Here's the question, how hard is it to remove without taking off the valve cover? Because if I take it off I might as well do a valve adjustment, and if I'm that far in I might as well put on the new timing kit and if I'm that far I might as well (insert other project I intend on for later but will convince myself to do)

scope103

Impossible. (IMO)

You'll end up dropping bits of hardened grommet inside the valve cover, and that can't be good. Once you go through all the work to remove the plenum, removing the valve cover is only another dozen screws. And yes, you'll want to adjust the valves if you get that far.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

It's a 22re scope It'll take him longer to get it warmed up than to get at the valves.

Don't worry about the tming kit, unless you're worried about the timing cover. It might wait till it's warmer out.