22re running rich and stuttering
#1
22re running rich and stuttering
I have a 95 Toyota pickup 22re DLX and I'm having some running rich problems and stuttering issues. I might upload some videos later but when I give it full throttle at idle it will bog down and then catch up. I replaced the tps and the maf and since the iat sensor is built in, that has been replaced. I got a check engine light for the iat sensor circuit so i replaced it and it didn't change anything. My plugs are black and sooty and it blows carbon out the exhaust if i rev it. Also after I run it and then let it sit for a few minutes it's pretty hard to start and since there's fuel in my oil I'm pretty sure it's flooding.
I'm doing the fuel pump now and fuel filter and there's three lines coming from the tank and when I pulled them raw fuel came out of all three. Isn't one of those for the charcoal canister? Is there supposed to be liquid fuel in all of them? I checked the injectors with the screw driver method and they all sounded regular and since all plugs are black and sooty it wouldn't make sense for them to be my problem anyway unless they all went bad at the same time. When I listened to the cold start injector just after I started it cold, I couldn't hear any ticking sound. I did have the tps adjusted wrong so it was surging at the time and after it warmed up, i noticed that after I pulled the electrical connector from the cold start valve, the surging slowed. Think maybe my charcoal canister and valve are messed? It seems like I only ever have problems with the stuttering after it's warmed up so does anyone have any ideas for me?
I'm doing the fuel pump now and fuel filter and there's three lines coming from the tank and when I pulled them raw fuel came out of all three. Isn't one of those for the charcoal canister? Is there supposed to be liquid fuel in all of them? I checked the injectors with the screw driver method and they all sounded regular and since all plugs are black and sooty it wouldn't make sense for them to be my problem anyway unless they all went bad at the same time. When I listened to the cold start injector just after I started it cold, I couldn't hear any ticking sound. I did have the tps adjusted wrong so it was surging at the time and after it warmed up, i noticed that after I pulled the electrical connector from the cold start valve, the surging slowed. Think maybe my charcoal canister and valve are messed? It seems like I only ever have problems with the stuttering after it's warmed up so does anyone have any ideas for me?
#2
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have you checked your coil? or maybe your csi(cold start injector) is stuck open? Try just unplugging your csi and see if it helps. If that doesnt help try testing the coil, mine went out all of the sudden one day and i had a very very similar issue.
#3
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I had an issue like this in my 90 p/u was throwing parts at it but nothing helped untill swapped the egr valve with a spare I had laying around after that it started running normal again
#4
I have replaced the EGR valve and I was trying to test the coil but the Chilton's manual was somewhat confusing and I didn't figure it out. I'll try again though. And I'll try unplugging the CSI when I get it back together. Thanks.
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i wish i still had mine, after i sold the 4runner i find i need it alot to help people haha, but i want to say the main plug's resistance should be 13 ohms, now dont quote me on this but that's what i remember it being on my coil.
edit: mine was the 3vze sorry, idk if they cross over to the 22re
edit: mine was the 3vze sorry, idk if they cross over to the 22re
#6
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Check the fuel pressure regulator, and charcoal canister per the FSM checks. Wouldn't be a bad idea to make sure the injectors aren't leaking also, and maybe the oxygen sensor.
Compression check, cold vs hot, also while hot wet vs dry.
Also after I run it and then let it sit for a few minutes it's pretty hard to start and since there's fuel in my oil
#7
I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator with no effect. Charcoal canister is on my list. No visual leaks from injectors. Did a compression test with a $30 tester and they were all even. And I'll check the O2 sensor when I get it running again.
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#9
Yeah, but it isn't supposed to have raw fuel in it, just vapor right? I just don't see why there'd be fuel in all 3 lines if the third is for the charcoal canister.
#10
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You can get fuel in the EVAP line by overfilling the tank, eg filling the fill tube, this puts the evap line under the liquid level. Also when the can vent is plug it doubles the vacuum, bumpy roads, odd parking angles ect.
#11
If the can is full it will suck liquid fuel untill it gets below the pipe level. If the air intake is clogged it will suck un diluted vapors.
You can get fuel in the EVAP line by overfilling the tank, eg filling the fill tube, this puts the evap line under the liquid level. Also when the can vent is plug it doubles the vacuum, bumpy roads, odd parking angles ect.
You can get fuel in the EVAP line by overfilling the tank, eg filling the fill tube, this puts the evap line under the liquid level. Also when the can vent is plug it doubles the vacuum, bumpy roads, odd parking angles ect.
#12
I finished the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Fixed the stuttering problem or appears to have for now. Is there a way for me to tell whether it really is running rich or not?
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