old4runner

I timed my truck at 5 degrees early and it won't idle. Another thing I've noticed is that more than once I timed it at 5 degrees early and then shut it down, when I pull the cap off the rotor will be about 180 degrees away from the number one cyl with the timing mark on the crank at TDC. Also it will backfire when I open the throttle and then it will rev.

I didn't have an issue timing my last 22re, but this one is killing me. One thing I have thought about is how with older domestic cars you have to disable the distributor's advance in order to time it, the Hanes manual does not mention doing this, so I haven't, is this necessary on 22re's?

andykrow

Yes you need to jump the diagnostic terminals to time. It's the E and T1 terminals in the check connector. If you put it at 5 without these connected the timing isn't advanced enough.

You said the timing drifts? Be sure your truck is completely warmed up and the connectors jumped and this shouldn't happen.

Also, the timing mark will be at the 0 degree mark twice during the cam's complete rotation. So 180 degrees off is fine. The distributor and camshaft turn at half the speed of the crank, so if you spin the crank one complete turn the distributor will line up.

old4runner

the 0 degree mark twice explains my unexplained 180 degree phenonmenah. Now to connect the two terminals, should I just use gator clips, or something similar?

On a related note I discovered the FSM online which talks about something called an SST to jumper the terminals. What is an SST?

xxxtreme22r

a paper clip works pretty well to short those terminals you just got to make sure the idle drops when you do it.

andykrow

SST is a special service tool. And yeah a paper clip works great. If the idle doesn't drop you probably need to adjust your TPS.

old4runner

okay, so I set the timing the better of the two top dead centers (this one will idle and back fire, 180 degrees on the distributor is also top dead center and it will backfire and not idle) the truck sounds a lot like my 1940 something farmall tractor when it is idling. It has brand new fuel injectors, a brand new fuel filter, brand new air filter, the only thing I didn't replace yet is the cap & rotor, I wouldn't think that could cause it to back fire. I've checked the firing order also and it's fine. If anyone has any ideas why this thing sounds like a tractor and struggles to do 15 mph please let me know.

HighLux

Have you got the dizzy in right? Did you take it out?

old4runner

What is a dizzy?

old4runner

is a dizzy a distributor? I'm not up on my auto forum slang, if it is, yes, I did pull the distributor.

HighLux

Maybe you got it off a tooth...I'd recheck it....should be a quickie thing we can eliminate...

old4runner

in this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-marks-216514/ philbert is talking about the notch in the distributor gear, since my valve cover is installed, how do I check it w/out removing the valve cover? If I do have to remove the valve cover do I need to replace the rubber gasket?

HighLux

Take the vc off. The gasket is reusable....you need some black rtv on the front and back though over the rubber half circle gaskets...

old4runner

good to know, I put fresh half moons in the front & back with RTV, if I don't disturb them I wouldn't think I would need to replace them, but what does everyone else think?

xxxtreme22r

you can reuse those too. but I would take them off clean off the old rtv and reseal them once your done.

old4runner

I pulled the valve cover and put the distributor in with the notch on the gears where philbert was indicating it should go, I timed the motor 5 degrees early. Before I did anything I pulled the #1 spark plug out and made sure the piston was indeed at the top of the cylender. at this point there isn't a doubt in my mind that the timing on the little truck is good, but the thing still has no power, sounds like a tractor and backfires. I did pull the engine all the way out and put it back in, before I took it out it ran great (the engine, the clutch was another story). Any theories anyone may have are sure welcome.

Olas

At my elevation (6,000 ft and up) I had to advance the timing to get the truck to run right. I set it at 5 degrees after the rebuild and it ran like ˟˟˟˟, no power at all. Advanced it a bit to about 8 degrees, maybe a bit more and it runs great now.

andykrow

Are you checking timing with a timing light? You should double check your plug wires and make sure everything is routed correct. Sounds like you have a misfire.

xxxtreme22r

double and triple check to make sure you have the plug wires correctly and not one of them is mixed up. just pulling the #1 spark plug and looking in the hole to see if the cyl is tdc is not going to work. because it can be up top on the #1 cyl exhaust stroke. You want it on the #1 cyl compression stroke. which you would tell if the crank is TDC and the #1 intake and exhaust valves are loose.

old4runner

Thanks, I wouldn't have thought of that, I have one day off before I have to go back to work and I'm going to try it on the opposite stroke (TDC on the timing chain cover, but the other TDC) if that doesn't work the only thing that I am left to believe is that the cam rotated when I did the timing chain, but i was positive until this point that it didn't.

Yes I am using a timing light and I'm only @ 1400 ft here so I'm not tripping out about the elevation effect on the motor, but thanks though

xxxtreme22r

how about just doing it the right way and take the valve cover off and make sure #1 valve rockers are loose. this way you know 100% it's on the right stroke.