4Reigner

The fuel line on my truck going from the filter to fuel rail is made of hard plastic tubing, with a rubber sleeve over it. However, at some point, this line got bent to far, and kinked.
Is this tubing tough enough to handle that, or has it been compromised to much?

Seems to be a difficult piece to find, and is already hard to get to...
So how much these lines can take before they crack?


Also, what would be the consequenses of not lubricating the fingers on the clutch plate? Forgot that in the excitment of dropping the engine back in...

4Reigner

By the way, thank you all for making my engine rebuild possible!!!

4x4climber

you should be fine... if not, they really are not hard to come by.

don't lube pressure plate fingers...there will be no consequences because your not supposed to anyways. that is what a good throwout bearing is for.

4Reigner

Nice one, just what i wanted to hear!
It fires, and runs, but has a stumble during acceleration, and no power what so ever...
I am going first for the EGR, to clear up the stumble.

After running it for a little bit it goes very warm, enough to be a bit worrying.
Before the rebuild i failed aircare with high NoX, wich means high combustion temps-

Will the EGR clear up the stumble, temperature and the Nox perhaps?

RedResistance

Any codes stored in the ECU? This acceleration stumble, how severe is it? Does it ever cause backfiring in the intake? Sounds like a possible MAF sensor to me..

4Reigner

The stumble is severe, and getting worse when it gets warm, thats why i suspect the EGR.
First time i fired it i got 24,31 and 51, forgot to pull them before I left today.
Not sure what a backfire in the intake sound/feel like?
The MAF measures out good by the Ohm meter.

RedResistance

24 and 31 are a bad maf....
Edit: I have the same fault and symptoms on my 85 Celica 22R-E

4x4climber

AFM..... afm. =D

is it plugged in? I know it sounds dumb... But you don't wana know how many people I catch redhanded with that one on many cars. Even did it on my old eclipse myself... LoL

4Reigner

So I get from this:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h32.pdf
and your responses that the AFM is in communications with the intake temp sensor and the coolant sensor, to determine the fuel mix, and causing high combustion temps/high NoX and stumbles on the accelerator?

The fact that the AFM is checking out OK, can it be the ECT (engine coolant Temp) or IAT (intake air temp)? I'll take the Ohm meter to those two tomorrow, and see what codes my paperclip can pull...

4x4climber

have you checked out those other things and tested em?

RedResistance

According to what I was taught in school, and according to my automotive fuel systems textbook, what's installed on the 22R-E is a Mass Air Flow sensor with an Intake Air Temperature sensor also in the housing. an AFM would be found on a vehicle like a 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo which I also own on top of my 85 Celica GT-S with a 22R-E

RedResistance

Code 24 refers to an IAT signal fault which is a part of the MAF sensor housing.. Code 32 is a fault in the MAF sensor signal. However, the primary cause of your woes is the IAT, since the condition is worse when the engine is warm because the air coming into the engine is warmer.. Not kidding I have identical symptoms in my Celica. Just because the MAF sensor ohms out okay doesn't mean it's good.. you have to check the voltage of the door when it's opening and closing. My MAF Ohmed out okay, but when I went to test voltage, the readings were very inconsistent as the door moved as it is an old mechanical part that is worn out... I doubt it's your coolant temperature sensor as the car will run fine with the thing unplugged. It's a fuel TRIM sensor, it's only designed to help the ECU reach 14.7:1 AFR's Wheres as the MAF sensor is designed for much more than that.

In Toyota's "Big 7" sensor inputs to the ECU the MAF sensor is number 2 following the Crank position sensor (Or whichever sensor tells the ecu the engine speed on a specific vehicle) If the MAF is bad the vehicle will not operate correctly. The ECT (Coolant Temp Sensor) however is not one of Toyota's "Big 7" Sensor inputs.

Also: The IAT is also one of the "Big 7" and can be tested as well. Put simply, resistance increases with temperature. The IAT is a little variable resistor that increases in resistance as the temperature rises. As the resistance increases, the voltage decreases that is being sent back to the ECU. What is happening is that there is excessive resistance so that there is so little voltage that it is out of the sensors operating range being sent back to the ECU, so the ECU doesn't know what to do with that signal and on OBD1 ECU's it just confuses it. When the ECU gets confused it uses a sort of "Default" reading which is not accurate and causes the engine to lean out which is what's causing your high temperatures. Hope that made some sense haha

4x4climber

Go to a different school next time. =D

These trucks come with an AFM not a MAF. They are different.

The sensor in the AFM could be bad. Yet the afm flapper door mechanism will still work...

RedResistance

No point in arguin with ya sir. I know what the Toyota Technical Education Network taught me. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong the way Toyota wants me to be wrong haha.

4x4climber

I'm just busting yer balls. But aside from that he can determine for himself what he has.

To 4Reigner:

AFM - the air pushes a spring loaded flapper door open. The position of the door is read with a variable resistor. The further the door is open, the more air.

MAF - computer supplies current necessary to heat a wire filament. The more air flowing, the more current is necessary to heat the wire.

Simple definitions. Look at it and tell me what it is...

Find anyone in your area that is nice enough to let you borrow their part. See if that fixes it... Easy n free.

RedResistance

Might also be because AFM no longer exists in Toyota.. Hm.. When you read the EWD's now it's all VG which is Toyota for Voltage/Grams Lol Also, OBDII has mandated that they all be called MAF's now... either way.. I'm not shelling out $80 for a used "Sensor that measures air somehow" for my car (Lol) I'm gonna junkyard hunt for one off of an '82 Supra or for another stock one whichever I find first.

Bottom line.. Replace that damn thing!

4Reigner

Yeah, I had one AFM die before, but not like this. I'll see if i can get my hands on a new one...

4Reigner

Got no codes.
Runs real bad in low rpm's, good in the higher(1600-2800)
Runs a bit to lean also.

4Reigner

Sorry to rich, I mean.
This thing has been drowned before, and the o2 and cat has been in the drink for a while, when we were busy un-hydro locking it... also one of the reasons for the rebuild was the corrosion on the head, leaking coolant on #4. My Cat is probably dead after all that... The cat is not suppose to rattle and vibrate when you step on the gas, I would think?
Funny thing is it only misfires and sputters when i give it some on the pedal, if i move the linkage at the throttle-body it runs fine, no misfire...any thoughts on that?

4Reigner

So after a bit of messing around, things are changing...
It runs great at idle, and on slow increase in rpm's all the way to 3000.
On fast increase in rpm's it hesitates and with enough of this abuse it creates a misfire.

Timing set to 5 BTDC with jumpers in.
EGR is blocked.
Catalytic converter is out.
O2 sensor new.
Distributor and wires are new
TPS ohms out good.
AFM ohms out good.
Cold Start Injector Switch ohms out good
Engine Coolant Temp ohms out good.
Red VSV on top of the valve cover ohms out good.

the Blue VSV looking unit on top of the valve cover measures infinty only.... ?
(Think it's for the Automatic choke?)

The primary measurements of the coil is 1 Ohm. Target is 0.5-0.7...?
Secondary is infinity, Target is 11.4 -15.6 K ohms...?

The Distributor to coil measures 193.7, target is 140-180 ohms ....?

You still think it's the AFM causing the bad runnings and misfire?
I get no codes.

All your help is greatly appreciated! i am well overdue to have this thing back on the road....