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22re rebuild problems need help

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Old 07-31-2008, 10:31 PM
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22re rebuild problems need help

i recently rebuilt my 22re and now am having some problems i just cant figure out. The rebuild included new pistons, rings, bearings the whole nine yards. I had the block bored .030 over and decked. I also had my head shaved down and the machinest said it had been machined before and was now at the limit of how much could be taken off according to specs but should be ok, but to maybe get a ticker head gasket to make up for timing changes from bringing the cam and crank closer together. I used the stock gasket instead from my engnbldr rebuild kit and threw in their 268 torkr cam that i got with my kit. Once I got it all together I had problems getting the timing right it seemed to be advanced and I couldnt get it right, the truck moved but was very sluggish but I put on about 150 miles hoping it might break in better as I messed with it. then I noticed I also have excessive crankcase pressure blowing out my oil cap when I open it, so i checked the compression today thinking my rings may be messed up but they are all high (180, 170, 173, 168). it runs like crap though so I finally parked it, but why is there crankcase pressure but still high compression? any ideas would be great, im kinda stuck. Could it need a thicker head gasket, i also reused my head bolts again, they have been off before too but looked ok I thought but maybe it could be leaking through there?
Old 07-31-2008, 11:16 PM
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at 150 miles your still way ahead of the first brake in oil change but tell me how you drove it in the first 20 minutes after start up

did you drive like a grandma and mess it all up or

did you drive it with you rfoot though the floor bord begging for more and then taking it to about 5k and lettin goff the gas and lettin git "engine" brake? thats how i did mine!

as fo rthe timing did you ground out the ecu before you moved the dizzy? if not then you rnot changing anything on the timing trust me these things are smart!

and taking the oil cap off and seeing stuff come out thats just normal check out my myspace and see what happens when you drove with out one!
Old 07-31-2008, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by just a 22re
...and taking the oil cap off and seeing stuff come out thats just normal check out my myspace and see what happens when you drove with out one!...

you're not speaking from experience are you?


Old 07-31-2008, 11:22 PM
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lol how did you know? lol
Old 07-31-2008, 11:25 PM
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lucky guess maybe, I dunno, lol


But on a serious note, did you adjust you TPS and everything when you put the motor back together? It's the little things like that that'll leave you searching for hours on obvious things for it to end up being something small and seemingly insignificant...
Old 08-01-2008, 12:15 AM
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nice i forgot about that one but if he didnt take it off like me he shouldnt have a problem but you never know
Old 08-01-2008, 12:23 AM
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Why would you ignore the head gasket suggestion?

Did you have any head work done? Valve adjustments made?
Old 08-01-2008, 09:14 AM
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Definitely do not reuse head bolts...
Old 08-01-2008, 10:01 AM
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took the intake off all as one piece and didn't really touch the tps i dont think, the head was just shaved, nothing else other than i pulled the valves one at a time to do the oil seals and put in a cam like i said. What could cause alot (not just a little, you can hear and feal it blow pretty good) of air from the oil cap besides rings? there is no water/oil mix so the head gasket is sealing somewhat for sure, but like i said all the cylinders are high compression still...
Old 08-01-2008, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaydon
Definitely do not reuse head bolts...
Ive been building these ENGINES for 5 years. You can reuse the head bolts as long as they arent rusty/crappy looking. lots of times the bolts by numbers 3 and 4 intake side rust out and then you should replace those 2 bolts with new/other used ones. Toyota uses really strong alloys in their bolts and the toyota dealership told me that I dont even have to replace 3vze head bolts,because they dont and they havent had a problem for any warranty h/gs they have done. These trucks are just built 1000x better than most trucks out there. The 22RE isnt even TTY(Torque To Yeild), therefor the head bolts are not even the slightest the concern.

I doubt the thiner h/g would give you issues, just more compression and if it was in spec, you shouldnt have any issues because the tenisoner is going to take up timing chain slack anyways. These engines are not toooo particular with valve timing vs. crank position as long as you are in the ball park, but ive had some issues myself and it was the valves. You may have your valves too tight. That slight drag is just that, a slight drag nothing more. Better to have em a tad too lose instead of a tad too tight(sounds like thats the issue with more crank case pressure)

Your main problem is that you got parts from Engnbldr.com. That guys a hack and would try to sell ice to an escamo. I havent had good luck with ted, he sent me a bunk oil pump then denies that it was bad, Sent me the Torker high lift cam that was "drop in fit" and it wasnt even close to right. I almost bent a set of new valves that he sold me with the cam, valves that now burn some oil at low RPM speeds because they arent quite right (they were over sized and def. decreased h/p in the engine)

You shouldnt have bought that cam, if you still have issues swap it out for the stock one and see what happens.If the problem goes away, pay more for a comp cam or a name brand part. Toyotas arent chevys and you guys SHOULDNT BE BUYING JUNK PARTS FROM INTERNET SUPPLIERS! WHATS WRONG WITH YOU!?

I AM NEVER BUYING PARTS FROM ENGNBLDR.COM!!! AND YOU SHOULDNT EITHER!!
Old 08-01-2008, 10:23 AM
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dude engnbldr.com is a great resource. pull your head out of your ass. and yes you should always replace headbolts, i dont care how clean they look. as for the OP... check the valves. also check the dizzy. how far out of spec are you? i believe the timing spec on the 22re is about 5ish BTDC. make sure you're grounding the diagnostic terminals when you time it. these things can be easy to time, but they can also be a big pain in the ass. check your fuel pressure too, might as well. is it pinging a lot? so heres the list to check:
valves
fuel pressure
jumping the diagnostic terminals while timing
check the dizzy and make sure you didnt install it 180 off (happens all the time)
good luck
Old 08-01-2008, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ozziesironmanoffroad
check the dizzy and make sure you didnt install it 180 off (happens all the time)
good luck

It runs. It is definately not 180 out.
Old 08-01-2008, 11:00 AM
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when i was messing with it before it was probably about 12 btc, and was pinging a bit when driving. I wasn't jumping the terminals, i did do it once as i was playing with it but it didnt seem to make alot of difference that i could notice. I reset the valves after a light initial break in, they were only a little warm still when i did it so i made them a little tight on the feelers but they sould have been close. dizzy wasn't 180 out, did that once while trying to move it around, but its not now.
Old 08-01-2008, 11:03 AM
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I reused my headbolts, no problems. 22RE head bolts are not torque-to-yield. Be sure to inspect the threads and make sure they are clean and smooth, chase the block threads and bolt threads, and make sure that cyl. block bolt holes are dry of oil. You can do this by threading the cyl. head bolt into the block with a rag around the base to absorb the oil seeping up. This is essential to get a proper torque reading.

Make sure to re-torque the head bolts after break in...forgot the FSM recommended break in period.

I think the argument for replacing them is that by the time you've torn into your motor, you've already spent a lot of precious time and money... why not spend the extra bills on the insurance of head bolts.
Old 08-01-2008, 06:06 PM
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well i just rechecked my valve clearences, 2 were a bit tight but not that bad, so i fixed that. also retorqued my head bolts. Still lots of air blowing out oil hole though, it actually splashes out oil spray... could it still be rings even though they were brand new and still build up compression? i need ideas
Old 08-25-2008, 04:42 PM
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so did you ever get the timing set correctly with the jumper cables? If it is not jumping down when you short out the terminals your tps might be out of adjustment. I just had this same problem and couldn't get the base timing correct. with the engine running and the tps loose move it down until the engine drops and then back up until it idles up and then just down until it idles down and lock it there and then try to base time it. If the tps will not make any change it might be bad. I used this from thook on another thread and it worked great for me, thook correct me if I am wrong on the procedure!
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