andykrow

Hey all,

I searched for this and can't find anything so here goes.

I've been chasing down an oil leak which seems to be the front seal, and in the process I've replaced the oil pump o-ring. In doing a little research on this I found I'm supposed to put sealant on the top bolt of the oil pump, and I've found people stating that if the wrong, i.e. too long, bolt is put in that position it will hold back the tensioner on the timing chain.

Sooo, when I did my timing chain a year ago I know I didn't do the sealant, and while I kept the bolts in the order they came out in I'm not sure they were in there correct in the first place. (And I've been chasing down a weird tick ever since doing this...)

So I checked bolt position and the top bolt is actually longer than the two bottom bolts.

Anyone know how this should button back up? I put one of the shorter bolts in the top hole and it seemed to grab enough threads. Anyone know just what I need the sealant for? Is it oil? I'm hoping the oil leak is from no sealant on that bolt and the tick is from the timing chain being loose. The bolt leak would seem to make sense as it takes a day or two for the oil to work its way out after I reassemble the pump (which I've done twice now to be sure I have my o-ring right...)

Please help I wanna get this buttoned up today!

Thanks,
Andy

andykrow

Okay So i just tried threading them in various places... The longer one will go all the way into the lower left bolt hole but not the lower right. Makes sense since that hole is where the pump is thicker and further forward compared to the lower right hole. And as I said using a shorter bolt on the upper hole seems to grab enough threads...

can anyone confirm for me?

FYI just so it out there I'm not messing with the long timing cover bolts that go into the pump.

Oh and it's a 1988 4runner, 22re, 5 speed.

THANKS!!

Olas

Find flyingbrass's 22re rebuild thread and read it...I believe the question you are asking is one he answers in his thread.

MortonPhotographic

I recently installed the timing chain cover and oil pump on my 1988 4runner, 22RE, 5 speed, so I feel you.

I hade the cover off and knew about the oil pump bolt issues so I installed them all and figured out their position before I installed the timing chain cover. I marked the position and the bolt in red.



You probably know this, but here is the hole you need to worry about. The timing chain tensioner is behind it and will be damaged if you use too long of a bolt. Also, this hole must be sealed or oil will leak out. I sealed mine with Ultragrey RTV, but the FSM talks about some special sealer that cures when the air is cut off which should happen when you but the bolt in place.



I learned this trick from a build here on Yotatech. I taped a blow up of the FSM bolt diagram to my timing chain box and used it to help keep the bolts in order--this is the only way to fly

[IMG]http://www.flickr.com/photos/mortonphotographic/4938867892/http://www.flickr.com/photos/mortonphotographic/4938867892/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/mortonphotographic/, on Flickr
[/IMG]

MortonPhotographic

If your timing chain cover is already in place I would use a wire or something to determine how deep the hole I marked above is and put the proper length bolt in place regardless of what you have (I know very few of my engine bolts were correct). The rest should be fairly easy to figure out as the long ones will only fit where they go as is the case with the medium bolts.

Hope this helps.

andykrow

Thanks for the input guys. The flyingbrass thread doesn't get into bolt lengths, but clearly oil is what I'm sealing with that top bolt. I have the black toyota FPG stuff so I'm sure that will be fine in there.

When I did the timing chain I used that exact method to keep the bolts in place...maybe not as pretty of a picture though! I know I didn't mix anything up but I'm thinking the bolts were in there wrong to begin with. (Entirely possible timing chain was done before...I got the truck with 215k on it...)

Anyway it looks like since the longer bolt seats fine in the lower left hole I should be good to go. My main worry was that the top bolt was keeping coolant from mixing with oil but that doesn't seem to be the case, and since it grabs a fair amount of threads I think that's the plan!

andykrow

good call on the wire I'm going to double check with that.

MortonPhotographic

No problem. I know what you mean about the bolts--you can't trust that the correct bolt is in place on a 20+ year old truck. I figured out later that I had a junkyard motor and they would just stuff whatever bolt they could, wherever it would fit. I have had to spend at least $100 at Toyota on new bolts because of this.

garyeshultz

Hey guys sorry to dig up an oldish post/thread but I just finished doing the timing job on my 22re and I'm going to admit right away I am a newbie to working on anything bigger than a sled or a dirt bike. I didn't even consider using a cardboard template like you have set up there, genius.

Anyway, I finished the job and I had a leak before and after. The instructions I had didn't say anything about the top bolt on the oil pump needing to be sealed. Could this hole cause a severe oil leak? I'm losing a quart of oil in about 150miles...I would love if this were the anwser...

toyospearo

Is it leaking from the front top part of the cover where that bolt is??? Or is the leak coming from the shaft?? You need to find out exactly where the leak is coming from. THat much oil leaking sounds to me like the front main seal is leaking.
Yes you need to put some black RTV on that bolt shaft and head before putting it back in.

Go here and see if it helps https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...-again-227307/

garyeshultz

I can't tell exactly, the oil is so new and translucent that its hard to tell, just very apparent that it comes from behind the crank pulley somewhere. The timing cover, oil pump and water pump and all inclusive seals and gaskets are new. In addition to that the crank pulley has been sleeved. I tried to do it right but it's still pissing out oil. The only thing I can think is that its that bolt but it seems like a lot of oil to come from such a small hole. I guess if its under pressure it'll come out pretty quickly though...

toyospearo

I did the same routine as you. Did a full timing R&R with water pump, oil pump. I tore the thing down 2 times. On the second time I sleeved the pulley and it STILL LEAKED. Finally I had to replace the oil pump and I found on the old one there was a dig inside the seal housing that was causing all of the leak.
Hasn't leaked a whisper since.

garyeshultz

Well, I guess tomorrow I'll try and just pull the belts and crank pulley off to get at that bolt, its the only thing that isn't new so it must be the culprit. Thanks for your insight and the quick reply.

92 TOY

here's a pic for ya.......but check into what TOYOSPEARO says too.....but I would go the easy route 1st and coat that bolt

92 TOY

I never realized how that ended. very interesting.

angrybob

Something to consider is that if you overtorque the hidden vertical bolt from the head to the timing chain cover, the cover can/will crack causing a leak that will appear to be behind the crank pulley.

I used these instructions from 4crawler.com

toyospearo

YUP!
Don't over torque those oil pump bolts! Or any bolts for that matter.
We fix issues from people wrenching way too hard on bolts all the time.
For some strange reason people seem to think the timing cover, water pump, and oil pump need to be "extra tight."
I even heard one guy say.. "well yea! You gotta tighten those down hard they are goin into ALUMINUM!!
ahhahah

manguy

what are the torque specs for the oil pump cover?

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Top bolt with sealant: 216 in-lbf
Two long bolts on the sides: 168 in-lbf
Two bottom bolts: 108 in-lbf

Please note INCH-pounds, not foot-pounds

greggyb

I'm getting ready to fix a leak around my crank pulley and I've heard about a crank seal, an oil seal and an oil pump o-ring. Is the oil seal referred to the same thing as the oil pump o-ring? In other words, there isn't an oil seal similar to the crank seal is there? There's just the crank seal and the o-ring that goes in a groove on the oil pump cover... Is that right?