wellkyle

22re fresh rebuild, went with a small performance cam and had the head rebuilt as well. got it all back together and it starts runs like ass for 10 or so seconds and then dies out. 2 injectors were replaced but its getting fuel, spark, and air. i have tested the computers and they are running fine. the only thing i am not 100% sure on is when i did the timing chain, is there a way to check it without taking the front of the motor apart? ive posted some pics, i have video and its 11 sec long but it wont let me post beings it is over 5mb, not sure how else to post it?

snobdds

Your timing is off.

There are two types of timing, cam and ignition. Your timing chain sets your cam timing and your distributor sets your ignition timing.

Tell me how you did both. Then we'll go from there.

wellkyle

While the motor was on my bench, it was TDC, and i lined up the markers on the cam and the crank according to the toyota rebuild book i have, if its off it would be only by one tooth if it would cause this. the distributor is set to where the truck is currently starting the best, if it is moved it wont even attempt to start, and if it would idle then i would actually set the timing with my light.

snobdds

If you didn't rotate the crank from tdc to 5* before inserting the dizzy, it will never run right. Also timing needs to be done on the compression stroke of tdc.

Assuming you had the ignition timing right, you timed it for a 22r.

I did a write up on how to properly time the 22re years ago. I have no idea what thread it's in anymore. Timing has always gotten people for some reason.

wellkyle

I've gone from tooth to tooth on the dizzy and even done 180 out on purpose, and on the compression stroke naturaly beings chevy is the same. From what I remember looking at it from the drivers side I believe it was the 10 or 11 o'clock position it was supposed to be at.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

#1 valve timing, remove the valve cover. Set cylinder 1 to tdc compression stroke, verify the cam dowel is at 12 o'clock, the index mark is immediately to the left

#2 file host, use YouTube. Or just record audio if that is over the size limit post it to an offshore host like instaud.io


PS. 5° is well within the adjustment range of the distributor, so it's OK to aim for 0° when stabbing the distributor

snobdds

This is not correct. The crank should be at 5* BTDC and the rotor on the dizzzy should be at 12:00. The star wheel that sets the air gap inside the dizzy for the RPM signal should be at 8:00, 12:00, and 4:00 positions. Once the dizzy is inserted, the rotor will rotate to the #1 spark plug position and the adjustment bolt hold down will be dead center of the adjustment range. That's how you know the timing is right, when the hold down bolt hole is dead center and not adjusted to the max either way.

There is adjustment, but its not right and your loosing power with bad ignition timing. I live at 7000 ft above sea level. I actually have to time mine to 8* BTDC and if I stabed the dizzy at 0*TCD, I would not have the adjustment range to get the timing right.

Do it right.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I'll bite that bait!

So you rotated the crankshaft to 5° BTDC. Backwards directly to five, or cranked it around the required 1435°? If you rotated counter clockwise what happens with the slack in the chain?


And when it warms up I'll put the light on it. it should still be right at about 6-7°. Re run my TC stall test, re stab it per your direction and see if my torque curve moved any..