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22re megasquirt vs webber vs mafm

Old 01-15-2015, 09:01 PM
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22re megasquirt vs webber vs mafm

So ive had enough of dealing with the afm on my 1994 pickup.

From my reasearch ive come up with three options..
a. Install a webber carb. My worry with that is stalling out on extreme angles, but it is a webber so it should be better than a stock carb? Any experiance or advice would be great..

B. Do a megasquirt pnp system. With the pnp system can i delete my afm or do i need to go with the diypnp to do that?

C. Seems like the pricey option.. lce mafm swap with ecu.. dont really wanna drop that kinda cash..

another option i thought of was putting an aftermarket throttlebody on and making my own intake for it..

any advice or help would be great thanks
Old 01-15-2015, 11:53 PM
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Red face

Just why don`t you like your stock AFM??

To me your spending lots of money and time for very little gain.

Go for it if it makes you happy.
Old 01-16-2015, 06:31 AM
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Have know idea what you current problems are with AFM.

So standard answer: SAS your truck and pull motor swap to a ........ (whatever motor you like)

Seriously though. Prolly ought to figure out current problem. You might trade out parts only to discover it was a wiring short. Or some other small problem.
Old 01-16-2015, 11:01 AM
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For starters the afm is restrictive..

secondly ive swapped a few afms in and out.. first one was good for about a month then i guess it wore out so i played with the origonal one and got some low spots out of it by playing with the brush and strip but still stumbles a bit. One afm stumbles at lower rpm than the other one.. then started stumbling constantly whenever i needed power..

motor swap and sas are in future plans when i can save some cash, i just need it running well right now as its my daily. And if i can get the motor running good i might just rebuild the 22re. Hence why i kinda like the megasquirt idea cause id build the motor up for more power..

i dont want to keep having junkyard afms crappin out on me and for the money of a new afm from toyota id rather take it out and do a stand alone ecu..
Old 01-16-2015, 11:02 AM
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Fourth option also if convert to propane..
Old 01-16-2015, 11:59 AM
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This is exactly why I'm saying that you may have a simple wiring issue causing other problems. My stock AFM is 29 yrs old and works fine. My Supra AFM is 34yrs old. So if your going through them any quicker.....
Old 01-16-2015, 12:26 PM
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What wiring issues could it be?
Truck has around 500k on it.. odo broke 6 years ago at 293miles..

And you cant tell me that the afm doesnt restrict power and efficency.. the air has to push it open.. wouldnt the motor be better off without it?
Old 01-16-2015, 12:33 PM
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I'd have to pull a wiring diaghram and visual inspection, hopefully some one who knows more will chime in or point to other potential issues.

The question of AFM restriction on a stock engine has been ran into the ground, just sarch it. My motor is modified with the supra AFM so now the throttle body is most restrictive.
Old 01-16-2015, 12:47 PM
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Once some one has it in them something is bad nothing will convince them of anything else.

I never had a problem with any of my AFM`s but were talking of any engine of less the 120 horsepower

Put the same engine in the Celica it was a fun car to drive because of the lighter weight.

To each there own Might find more info over on Celics GTS.Com
Old 01-16-2015, 01:16 PM
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Im not 100% convinced.. just seems like the problem when i put a different afm in and the stumble changes rpm..

side note.. i tried checking if its the tps, i see people saying if it runs better unplugged replace it.
Well i unplugged my tps and it wouldnt stay running and wouldnt start again..
Old 01-16-2015, 01:58 PM
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You could always go all the way with an Offenhauser intake and Holley 4 barrel carb...
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/part...ries/58857.htm
Old 01-16-2015, 02:23 PM
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Seems basic but have you checked:
vacuum leaks?
timing?
Spark plug gap, wires, cap/rotor?
Fuel filter?
I don't know what you've done. So a good start place.

You won't get the same power from a carb on a stock engine as injection.
Old 01-16-2015, 04:58 PM
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Did a head job a year ago.
New cap, rotor, wires, denso plugs. Fuel pump. Filter..

I took my throttlebody off and it was diiirrrtttyy. Cleaned it up. Found the egr passage was on intake behind tb was plugged so scraped the black crap out and it seems my problem is solved. Truck runs awsome and has more power and better throttle response..

Last edited by cammac.cmm; 01-16-2015 at 10:30 PM.
Old 01-16-2015, 10:28 PM
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Nevermind. Was running good now back to stumbling.. just has a bit more power from freeing up egr passage and cleaning tb.

Dammit.
Old 01-18-2015, 08:37 AM
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What is your idea set at?
Old 01-22-2015, 08:28 PM
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Trying to fix the problem for now. Then 5ve swap in the next year or so.
Old 01-23-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by muddpigg
What is your idea set at?
Originally Posted by cammac.cmm
Trying to fix the problem for now. Then 5ve swap in the next year or so.
Meant idle. Just can't spell.
Old 01-23-2015, 11:15 AM
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I set it around 800, but no matter what i set it at it always adjusts itself to 1000..
Old 01-23-2015, 11:19 AM
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when at a 1000 does it kick down?
Old 01-23-2015, 11:43 AM
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No it stays there.. no matter what i set it at after driving around it goes to 1000. Stays steady there..

it used to surge 1000-1500 when at stop lights and only when foot actually on the brake.. then did tune up swapped afm, ignighter and it was good.
Also. Not sure if its relevant.. but theres a hum in the radio. Always been there since owned. I put an amp in for speakers but still there when i connect ipod to power while playing.. but no hum when not connected..

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