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22re knock noise timing chian?

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Old 01-26-2011, 03:38 PM
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22re knock noise timing chian?

So I bought a 91 toyota 4runner with a knock. I took the valve cover off and the timing chain guide is broke in about 3 pieces and parts of it missing. I've heard timing chain noise before and it was never a noise this loud. Could it be that it was making the knocking sound really loud or is it more realistic that parts and pieces made there way into the crank and rod bearing??
Old 01-26-2011, 03:41 PM
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possibly be both if the pieces of the rail clogged up the oil pickup tube. 22r's are noisy to begin with. Might need a video or something to determine better. If it's a heavy heavy rod knock then your oil light would be on. But if it's a smaller rod knock the oil light might not come on.
Old 01-26-2011, 03:50 PM
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yeah, i trailered the truck to my house cause i didn't want to run it and i did run it about 300 feet to my grarage and at 1500 to 1800 RPMs while moving the knock was about half of what it was a idle. I did the test pulling the plugs to see if the knock changes and it didn't change with any of the plugs being pulled.
Old 01-26-2011, 03:51 PM
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if the knock got quieter under load that is probably just the chain slapping on the timing cover. Either way, yur gonna have to drop the oil pan to get the debris out from the guides. You can inspect the rod bearings then.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 01-26-2011 at 03:52 PM.
Old 01-26-2011, 03:58 PM
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ok, How do you go about inspecting the rod bearing? or what am I looking for ?
Old 01-26-2011, 04:01 PM
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just wiggle em around a little. no need to take any of the caps off or anything like that. If one or two or .... are bad, you'll know it.
Old 01-26-2011, 04:02 PM
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Ok. Thank you i'll let you know what i find.
Old 01-26-2011, 04:09 PM
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Yep, pull the pan, first. This requires a bit of work to remove everything in the way, ...then you can go by the book and dig in there to check the Rod Bearings.(You'll need to remove the pick up tube, anyhow, so do that, then you can get into the rod bearings , one at a time and check the bearings for nasty slop or yucky stuff stuck in there, lol). I would do this before pulling the timing cover, just to find out if you need to do a full rebuild, anyhow. If so, they you could just pull the whole motor and THEN redo the timing chain kit, redo the head/valvetrain if needed, etc., MUCH easier with the motor out. Might wanna do a compression test, too, before tearing deep into it, right XXX?

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 01-26-2011 at 04:12 PM.
Old 01-26-2011, 04:19 PM
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probably wont have to remove the pickup tube to feel up the bearings. I didn't. If you have an auto trans, I feel sorry for ya when you go to pull that oil pan.

Like chef said, a compression check on the motor before tear down, could be a good idea as well.

Simple $30 tool can save you alot of headaches.
Old 01-26-2011, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
probably wont have to remove the pickup tube to feel up the bearings. I didn't. If you have an auto trans, I feel sorry for ya when you go to pull that oil pan.

Like chef said, a compression check on the motor before tear down, could be a good idea as well.

Simple $30 tool can save you alot of headaches.
Hey B,... no, I meant, he's going to have to get that thing AND the pan, spotless, before slapping it all back together(IF, indeed, he ONLY needs a timing chain kit)...ya know? So I figured, in case it's full of plastic shavings, etc., ....maybe just remove it and the pan, anyway. HOWEVER, yes, as I said, ...I , PERSONALLY, would first check compression, ....AND, ....if that's really bad, why even bother pulling the pan while it's in the rig, ya know?lol. Because, .....if you can avoid dropping the pan in an IFS truck, that'd be a good thing to avoid, eh? lol. It's a catch 22, B, ...that's why I said compression, first, would be best.

wishing for the least trouble for ya, man!
Old 02-05-2011, 11:43 AM
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Finally got the time to start working on it again, what a pain getting that oil pan out. last two timing chains I did were on a straight axle way simpler. So it turns out the #2 rod bearing went as well as the timing chain.
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