22RE intake mod question about supra afm
03-13-2010, 05:28 PM
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22RE intake mod question about supra afm
Hello All,
So I was inspired by the supra mod guys to go out and obtain a 1982 supra AFM in the hopes of possibly getting better gas mileage and being able to climb over the hills in socal in 5th gear, as has been mentioned. However, now that I have the afm, a spectre cone filter, and 3" tubing with an adapter that fits my 22RE stock throttle body, I have a few questions before and after I do this mod:
1. Before I install the AFM, do I need to reset the ECU and if so, which fuse controls that? Is it the same as the EFI fuse located under the dash on the drivers side?
2. Is this really plug n play with a stock configuration, or am I going to be running rich and need to adjust the AFM accordingly?
3. Would I need to adjust the idle after the mod to accomodate the change in air flow to the engine, assuming the fuel ratio stays static?
Assuming all goes well and I install the 82 AFM successfully, I wonder if I really will see better gas mileage and/or better power at high RPMs up hills...based on the research I've done so far, it seems the following need to be present before I really see any noticeable gains.
1. Larger throttle body
2. headers
3. performance exhaust, like flowmaster 40 series.
I've seen multiple posts on multiple forums talking to the need to upgrade all of the components above, and even seen guys saying "why do this to a 22re, just swap it for a more powerful engine if you're going to do all this work?"...let's assume I want to keep the 22re - can I get a rating for the above components when coupled with an upgraded AFM, in order of most applicable to least applicable? Also please correct me on any of the above if I need it. I'm relatively green on engine modifications (obviously, perhaps) and I'm just trying to educate myself and the next noob that comes along and searches for supra AFM mod on the forum. Thanks in advance -
In case it's necessary, I'm running a 1986 4Runner 22re manual all stock. Replaced engine block with all new timing chain and head gasket after the original head gasket blew out on me in 2008. Just passed california smog, so looking to make the afm mod after that.
So I was inspired by the supra mod guys to go out and obtain a 1982 supra AFM in the hopes of possibly getting better gas mileage and being able to climb over the hills in socal in 5th gear, as has been mentioned. However, now that I have the afm, a spectre cone filter, and 3" tubing with an adapter that fits my 22RE stock throttle body, I have a few questions before and after I do this mod:
1. Before I install the AFM, do I need to reset the ECU and if so, which fuse controls that? Is it the same as the EFI fuse located under the dash on the drivers side?
2. Is this really plug n play with a stock configuration, or am I going to be running rich and need to adjust the AFM accordingly?
3. Would I need to adjust the idle after the mod to accomodate the change in air flow to the engine, assuming the fuel ratio stays static?
Assuming all goes well and I install the 82 AFM successfully, I wonder if I really will see better gas mileage and/or better power at high RPMs up hills...based on the research I've done so far, it seems the following need to be present before I really see any noticeable gains.
1. Larger throttle body
2. headers
3. performance exhaust, like flowmaster 40 series.
I've seen multiple posts on multiple forums talking to the need to upgrade all of the components above, and even seen guys saying "why do this to a 22re, just swap it for a more powerful engine if you're going to do all this work?"...let's assume I want to keep the 22re - can I get a rating for the above components when coupled with an upgraded AFM, in order of most applicable to least applicable? Also please correct me on any of the above if I need it. I'm relatively green on engine modifications (obviously, perhaps) and I'm just trying to educate myself and the next noob that comes along and searches for supra AFM mod on the forum. Thanks in advance -
In case it's necessary, I'm running a 1986 4Runner 22re manual all stock. Replaced engine block with all new timing chain and head gasket after the original head gasket blew out on me in 2008. Just passed california smog, so looking to make the afm mod after that.
03-13-2010, 05:44 PM
#2
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1) You shouldn't have to do anything with the ECU
2) Yes it's plug and play
3) You shouldn't have to adjust anything unless you want too
The t/b, header and hi flow exhaust and the supra mod all make a huge difference together. The intake itself will help, but to get the full potential outta the whole shebang everything makes the difference. Think about it, your increasing your air in, shouldn't you increase your air out? The head is only gonna flow what it can, so I guess it's just how fast you want it in and out...
I mean, you HAVE all the intake stuff put it on. You could also swap the intake and battery around to help too.
2) Yes it's plug and play
3) You shouldn't have to adjust anything unless you want too
The t/b, header and hi flow exhaust and the supra mod all make a huge difference together. The intake itself will help, but to get the full potential outta the whole shebang everything makes the difference. Think about it, your increasing your air in, shouldn't you increase your air out? The head is only gonna flow what it can, so I guess it's just how fast you want it in and out...
I mean, you HAVE all the intake stuff put it on. You could also swap the intake and battery around to help too.
03-13-2010, 06:07 PM
#3
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Ive done this swap on my 86 4Runner and it is plug and play. You can also use an AFM from a 5MGE engine, i got my AFM from a mid 80`s cresida and it was plug and play. I also have a downey header on my 22RE also, and someday when i can afford it i would like to add a larger throttle body.
03-13-2010, 06:13 PM
#4
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1) You shouldn't have to do anything with the ECU
2) Yes it's plug and play
3) You shouldn't have to adjust anything unless you want too
The t/b, header and hi flow exhaust and the supra mod all make a huge difference together. The intake itself will help, but to get the full potential outta the whole shebang everything makes the difference. Think about it, your increasing your air in, shouldn't you increase your air out? The head is only gonna flow what it can, so I guess it's just how fast you want it in and out...
I mean, you HAVE all the intake stuff put it on. You could also swap the intake and battery around to help too.
2) Yes it's plug and play
3) You shouldn't have to adjust anything unless you want too
The t/b, header and hi flow exhaust and the supra mod all make a huge difference together. The intake itself will help, but to get the full potential outta the whole shebang everything makes the difference. Think about it, your increasing your air in, shouldn't you increase your air out? The head is only gonna flow what it can, so I guess it's just how fast you want it in and out...
I mean, you HAVE all the intake stuff put it on. You could also swap the intake and battery around to help too.
OP. The Supra mod makes better (more) air coming in. You need to move that air out also. The choke points will be either the TB or the exhaust manifold, or both. The header is an easy upgrade. Couple that with the Supra mod and you'll feel an increase in hill climb, hell the Supra mod by itself did that for me and the header made it that much better.
As far as MPG goes...... I've added a lot of weight to my rig, a couple of lockers, 200lb camping box, hard mount cargo rack with a fuel can/water can/high lift/shovel/axe (about 150lbs), recovery box (about 90lbs), full sized spare, 31's, etc...
Before all the "camping" mods and with the Supra I was pulling about 24mpg, with the top off and the header it was up around 29mpg. Now I'm at 20mpg(ish) on a DD.
It's a toss up really. Every mod you do to gain some mpg and some hp makes it easier to load more crap into the rig.
03-15-2010, 11:52 AM
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1) You shouldn't have to do anything with the ECU
2) Yes it's plug and play
3) You shouldn't have to adjust anything unless you want too
The t/b, header and hi flow exhaust and the supra mod all make a huge difference together. The intake itself will help, but to get the full potential outta the whole shebang everything makes the difference. Think about it, your increasing your air in, shouldn't you increase your air out? The head is only gonna flow what it can, so I guess it's just how fast you want it in and out...
I mean, you HAVE all the intake stuff put it on. You could also swap the intake and battery around to help too.
2) Yes it's plug and play
3) You shouldn't have to adjust anything unless you want too
The t/b, header and hi flow exhaust and the supra mod all make a huge difference together. The intake itself will help, but to get the full potential outta the whole shebang everything makes the difference. Think about it, your increasing your air in, shouldn't you increase your air out? The head is only gonna flow what it can, so I guess it's just how fast you want it in and out...
I mean, you HAVE all the intake stuff put it on. You could also swap the intake and battery around to help too.
Again, GRACIAS! I've turned to this forum many times for help and am so glad you guys are here.
03-15-2010, 12:21 PM
#7
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Your thoughts are right.
There's no wrong way to do the wiring as long as it's right. Going with a cone filter on the drivers side will suck air from inside the engine bay AND the fact the exhaust manifold or header is right there doesn't help. Also, the intake tube travels over your nice warm radiator...Will it run without the battery/intake swap? Yes, just fine. I would create a box around the filter though.
There's no wrong way to do the wiring as long as it's right. Going with a cone filter on the drivers side will suck air from inside the engine bay AND the fact the exhaust manifold or header is right there doesn't help. Also, the intake tube travels over your nice warm radiator...Will it run without the battery/intake swap? Yes, just fine. I would create a box around the filter though.
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03-15-2010, 12:35 PM
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Very well said VP.
OP. The Supra mod makes better (more) air coming in. You need to move that air out also. The choke points will be either the TB or the exhaust manifold, or both. The header is an easy upgrade. Couple that with the Supra mod and you'll feel an increase in hill climb, hell the Supra mod by itself did that for me and the header made it that much better.
As far as MPG goes...... I've added a lot of weight to my rig, a couple of lockers, 200lb camping box, hard mount cargo rack with a fuel can/water can/high lift/shovel/axe (about 150lbs), recovery box (about 90lbs), full sized spare, 31's, etc...
Before all the "camping" mods and with the Supra I was pulling about 24mpg, with the top off and the header it was up around 29mpg. Now I'm at 20mpg(ish) on a DD.
It's a toss up really. Every mod you do to gain some mpg and some hp makes it easier to load more crap into the rig.
OP. The Supra mod makes better (more) air coming in. You need to move that air out also. The choke points will be either the TB or the exhaust manifold, or both. The header is an easy upgrade. Couple that with the Supra mod and you'll feel an increase in hill climb, hell the Supra mod by itself did that for me and the header made it that much better.
As far as MPG goes...... I've added a lot of weight to my rig, a couple of lockers, 200lb camping box, hard mount cargo rack with a fuel can/water can/high lift/shovel/axe (about 150lbs), recovery box (about 90lbs), full sized spare, 31's, etc...
Before all the "camping" mods and with the Supra I was pulling about 24mpg, with the top off and the header it was up around 29mpg. Now I'm at 20mpg(ish) on a DD.
It's a toss up really. Every mod you do to gain some mpg and some hp makes it easier to load more crap into the rig.
03-15-2010, 01:10 PM
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Very well said VP.
OP. The Supra mod makes better (more) air coming in. You need to move that air out also. The choke points will be either the TB or the exhaust manifold, or both. The header is an easy upgrade. Couple that with the Supra mod and you'll feel an increase in hill climb, hell the Supra mod by itself did that for me and the header made it that much better.
As far as MPG goes...... I've added a lot of weight to my rig, a couple of lockers, 200lb camping box, hard mount cargo rack with a fuel can/water can/high lift/shovel/axe (about 150lbs), recovery box (about 90lbs), full sized spare, 31's, etc...
Before all the "camping" mods and with the Supra I was pulling about 24mpg, with the top off and the header it was up around 29mpg. Now I'm at 20mpg(ish) on a DD.
It's a toss up really. Every mod you do to gain some mpg and some hp makes it easier to load more crap into the rig.
OP. The Supra mod makes better (more) air coming in. You need to move that air out also. The choke points will be either the TB or the exhaust manifold, or both. The header is an easy upgrade. Couple that with the Supra mod and you'll feel an increase in hill climb, hell the Supra mod by itself did that for me and the header made it that much better.
As far as MPG goes...... I've added a lot of weight to my rig, a couple of lockers, 200lb camping box, hard mount cargo rack with a fuel can/water can/high lift/shovel/axe (about 150lbs), recovery box (about 90lbs), full sized spare, 31's, etc...
Before all the "camping" mods and with the Supra I was pulling about 24mpg, with the top off and the header it was up around 29mpg. Now I'm at 20mpg(ish) on a DD.
It's a toss up really. Every mod you do to gain some mpg and some hp makes it easier to load more crap into the rig.
Quick question regarding headers - on LCE's site it says they are illegal on emission controlled vehicles - since I'm driving in southern california, this will be a problem for me, right? do you guys with headers just not live in states with emission control laws? Or do you remove the headers before you get smogged every two years?
03-15-2010, 01:14 PM
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Your thoughts are right.
There's no wrong way to do the wiring as long as it's right. Going with a cone filter on the drivers side will suck air from inside the engine bay AND the fact the exhaust manifold or header is right there doesn't help. Also, the intake tube travels over your nice warm radiator...Will it run without the battery/intake swap? Yes, just fine. I would create a box around the filter though.
There's no wrong way to do the wiring as long as it's right. Going with a cone filter on the drivers side will suck air from inside the engine bay AND the fact the exhaust manifold or header is right there doesn't help. Also, the intake tube travels over your nice warm radiator...Will it run without the battery/intake swap? Yes, just fine. I would create a box around the filter though.
it looks like he also built a box as you mentioned so that sounds like good advice - I guess it would be to protect the cone filter from the elements? In any event, I'll work on that as well. Thanks
03-15-2010, 04:19 PM
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Actually I still run the stock configuration air cleaner with a modified top. Don't expect miracles- bottom line...it's still a 4cyl. Photo is a template- I'm getting a ss 3in pipe made- less heat soak than alum. Sending out a TB to Maxbore also. Then that's all she wrote for this truck, next one will either have the 2.7L or a turbo(diesal?).
Last edited by dfarr67; 03-15-2010 at 04:22 PM.
03-15-2010, 04:28 PM
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I read this thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-lives-205462/
it looks like he also built a box as you mentioned so that sounds like good advice - I guess it would be to protect the cone filter from the elements? In any event, I'll work on that as well. Thanks
it looks like he also built a box as you mentioned so that sounds like good advice - I guess it would be to protect the cone filter from the elements? In any event, I'll work on that as well. Thanks
Last edited by BigBluePile; 03-15-2010 at 04:29 PM.
03-15-2010, 04:30 PM
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Actually I still run the stock configuration air cleaner with a modified top. Don't expect miracles- bottom line...it's still a 4cyl. Photo is a template- I'm getting a ss 3in pipe made- less heat soak than alum. Sending out a TB to Maxbore also. Then that's all she wrote for this truck, next one will either have the 2.7L or a turbo(diesal?).
03-15-2010, 04:37 PM
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I'd make something like this, because this is what I'm recommending to another Supra mod user and is what I would do. If you don't plan on blasting thru water and mud a full box isn't necessary.
You could always just do this:
You could always just do this:
Last edited by BigBluePile; 03-15-2010 at 04:39 PM.
03-15-2010, 04:49 PM
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Makes sense logan - yes you're right, I'm not planning on blasting through mud and water with this truck, so I could get away with not fabbing a whole box for it.
03-29-2010, 03:19 PM
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Just to update, I've installed the supra AFM with the cone air filter just using the stock intake hoses, and already I see a performance increase. I'm working on the airbox/battery swap next, as that seems to be the best way to go about this, and I'll let you know how that goes as well.
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