Inferno451

I know you're all thinking "SEARCH!!!!!!"

FWIW, i've searched all over YT, IH8Mud, and all over the web, and have not found any definite answer to my question. My 22re is pretty close to done. No power, tons of oil consumption, etc, etc. I'd like to rering and put new bearings in, but i'm up at school and don't have access to a hoist or engine stand. My question is:

Does anyone have any DEFINITIVE answer (first hand experience, pictures, other proof) on whether or not you can remove the oil pan without removing the front differential by removing the motor mounts and jacking up the engine?

I've read so many differing opinions on how this whole process works it made my head spin. It seems like if you could get a couple more inches clearance you could unbolt the oil pickup inside and remove the pan without touching the front differential. Is this the case? It looks like the point on the engine that would hit first would be the valve cover/head, which would have to come off anyway. If i could just get that pan off, i don't think i'd have any problem doing the rest. I did my head gasket no problem, doesn't seem like the bottom end would be too much more work as long as i keep track of everything. I'm planning on just cutting the (slight) ridge off the top of the cylinders with an edge reamer, honing the cylinders, reringing, and redoing all the bearings. I know pulling the engine would be far and away easier, but it's not an option at this point. Thanks for the help guys, long live Yotatech!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

No you gotta pick up the motor or drop the diff.

:wabbit2:

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

Don't be scared of dropping the diff, it's not difficult, it just takes a bit. Make sure you've got a friend or a trans jack handy when it's time to put it back in, though.

xxxtreme22r

Gonna depend on if you have an auto or manual trans. Probably why your getting conflicting info. Your not going to have the option of lifting the engine if you have an auto trans. The lines above the trans will get crushed if you attempt to lift the engine.

With that said, I got mine out of my manual trans truck without lifting the engine and by simply unbolting the two main diff supports and loosening the front pivot mount. CV's stayed in place resting on the lower control arms. I also removed the steering stabilizer bar and skid plate. I did not completely remove the diff.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51708131

engine jacked up, diff dropped w/o removing drive shaft or axles. a pain, but easily do-able
(what xxxtreme said)

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

x2, i did what xxxtreme did last time i had to get to my oil pan. much easier getting the diff back in afterwards since it doesn't come off completely. i also had to take off my steering junk.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

and these are the steps i took:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51710167

Inferno451

Wow, thanks guys! +10 points for quick replies! My motor has almost 300k miles and runs great, but is low on power and burns lots of oil. Think i should be ok with just replacing bearings/rings/seals or does that sound like a horrible, awful, terrible idea? I have another motor on the ground ready to get rebuilt, but it's in washington and i'm in arizona. I just need this motor to last another 50k miles or so. I'm sure i won't really know until i open things up, but any experiences with this sort of thing?

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

I tried jacking up the motor some to get my pan off but still couldn't get it off so I did what xxxtreme did, never would have got the pan back in anyway if I did get it out.

As for your second question, only one way to find out.

abecedarian

Have you tried upping the oil weight? Say you run 5w30, going to 10w40 or even 20w50 to see if the oil usage drops...? 20w is rated to freezing so maybe being a bit thicker will slow down the burning enough to get you through til you can work it.