22re idle stop screw setting
03-05-2009, 06:39 PM
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22re idle stop screw setting
my 86 22re was been getting a progressivley worse and worse idle. im changing out my 02 sensor this weekend because of a few code 5's in the past 6 months, but when i went to check my idle stop screw, it wasnt even there. i guess i didnt tighten it down enough 
anyways, when i roll to a stop and brake and clutch my motor 25% of the time bogs down and almost stalls. ive dicked around with the idle stop screw and trying to set it just before it closes and when i fired it up i had an idle at 3000rpms. i adjusted it and the idle adjustment screw with the truck running to try and get it nice. not sure if i should set one or the other at a specific spot and go from there or??? how many turns from the bottom should my idle set screw on the throttle body be?
also, i know the i have to readjust my tps after all of this, but i want it to idle properly first
anyways, when i roll to a stop and brake and clutch my motor 25% of the time bogs down and almost stalls. ive dicked around with the idle stop screw and trying to set it just before it closes and when i fired it up i had an idle at 3000rpms. i adjusted it and the idle adjustment screw with the truck running to try and get it nice. not sure if i should set one or the other at a specific spot and go from there or??? how many turns from the bottom should my idle set screw on the throttle body be?also, i know the i have to readjust my tps after all of this, but i want it to idle properly first
03-05-2009, 06:41 PM
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idle stop screw? you mean the tiny one under the throttle body that the throttle cam hits?
you didn't tighten it down enough? why were you even messing with it?
(tough love)
you didn't tighten it down enough? why were you even messing with it?
(tough love)
Last edited by abecedarian; 03-05-2009 at 06:43 PM.
03-05-2009, 06:46 PM
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try this *with the engine fully warmed up* (ouch):
fully close the idle air bypass screw (on top of the throttle body), then open it 1.25-1.5 turns.
then adjust the idle stop screw until you have an idle speed of about 800 rpms.
if you close the IA screw, the engine should die.
then worry about the TPS.
fully close the idle air bypass screw (on top of the throttle body), then open it 1.25-1.5 turns.
then adjust the idle stop screw until you have an idle speed of about 800 rpms.
if you close the IA screw, the engine should die.
then worry about the TPS.
Last edited by abecedarian; 03-05-2009 at 06:47 PM.
03-05-2009, 06:54 PM
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it'll throw off all the calibrated 'feeler gauge' tests for the TPS but may get you running...
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03-05-2009, 06:58 PM
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okay, nevermind what I said.I don't have the facilities to set the proper initial throttle plate angle and was trying to get you running. I missed the part where you said it was running.
03-05-2009, 07:02 PM
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dang... I'm an arse.
guess it wouldn't exactly matter much if the throttle plate was open the proper amount, as long as the IA screw could compensate for idle speed, since the feeler gauge to test the TPS opens the throttle just 'that much more'.
guess it wouldn't exactly matter much if the throttle plate was open the proper amount, as long as the IA screw could compensate for idle speed, since the feeler gauge to test the TPS opens the throttle just 'that much more'.
03-05-2009, 07:25 PM
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lol, no problem. i just dont want to have either the IA or idle adjust screw way out of wack before i set my tps only to find i have to do it all over again. how far should the butterfly be from completly closing to set the idle? when i though i had ot close to closed i had the 3000rpm idle
03-07-2009, 10:27 AM
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hey abe, i tried your suggestions and found that my air bypass screw was 3 or so turns out, so i fully closed it and opened it 1 1/3 turns, then adjusted my idle stop screw to 850rpms (it wouldnt idle nice at 800) so now that i have my idle adjust screw and idle stop screw where i want them, i can now take the throttle body off and adjust my tps, correct?
i found that when i have the truck idling and give it a shot of gas, when it comes back down to idle it drops to 600ish rpms, then up to 950, then to 700 and after about 4-5 'surges' it comes back to 850. also, when i am driving and come to a light and apply the brakes it sometimes drops really low and has died only a few time from this. does this point to the IAC? i have one here that i can swap, i just dont want to waste my time if thats not it. how would i check that my spare IAC is good?
sorry for all the questions, just want to have everything covered
thanks for your help
i found that when i have the truck idling and give it a shot of gas, when it comes back down to idle it drops to 600ish rpms, then up to 950, then to 700 and after about 4-5 'surges' it comes back to 850. also, when i am driving and come to a light and apply the brakes it sometimes drops really low and has died only a few time from this. does this point to the IAC? i have one here that i can swap, i just dont want to waste my time if thats not it. how would i check that my spare IAC is good?
sorry for all the questions, just want to have everything covered
thanks for your help
03-07-2009, 04:03 PM
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sorry, been away.
one of the reasons you don't mess with the idle stop screw is that there are 'ported' vacuum passages to the throttle body which depend on particular throttle positions for them to work properly. If you look, there are probably 3-4 smaller vacuum hoses connected to the throttle body, no?
Once you move the stop screw, you affect a LOT of the other systems in the engine.
Hate to say but you may need to spend some time adjusting the stop screw and bypass screw, moving one and compensating with the other and adjusting the TPS all the while since moving the idle stop affects the TPS.
If you have the dashpot in front of the throttle body, you might want to remove it (and plug the vacuum line, of course) while you do the adjustments since it affects the throttle position when you let off the pedal.
one of the reasons you don't mess with the idle stop screw is that there are 'ported' vacuum passages to the throttle body which depend on particular throttle positions for them to work properly. If you look, there are probably 3-4 smaller vacuum hoses connected to the throttle body, no?
Once you move the stop screw, you affect a LOT of the other systems in the engine.
Hate to say but you may need to spend some time adjusting the stop screw and bypass screw, moving one and compensating with the other and adjusting the TPS all the while since moving the idle stop affects the TPS.
If you have the dashpot in front of the throttle body, you might want to remove it (and plug the vacuum line, of course) while you do the adjustments since it affects the throttle position when you let off the pedal.
03-07-2009, 04:49 PM
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yea, my throttle body has the ports....im just stumped on where i should start.....like how far/where to adjust the butterfly to as a baseline and i can adjust the idle adjustment accordingly.
12-06-2023, 07:41 AM
#19
I know this is an old post but wanted to ask, to fully close the idle air bypass screw (on top of the throttle body) do I screw it clockwise to close it ?
I have a 86 4Runner with a 22RE engine.
I have a 86 4Runner with a 22RE engine.
12-06-2023, 01:27 PM
#20
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Just to be sure, and not that *I* ever did this <ahem>, but you ARE adjusting the small screw down UNDER the large cover screw, yes?
Like I say, just checking. And just so you know, that screw is the idle speed adjust screw. If everything is working correctly, you screw that screw fully clockwise, it should, SHOULD, shut the idle off entirely. A common problem it has, BTW, is that the o-ring at the base of the screw gets old, brittle, and disintegrates, allowing extra air past the screw, messing up the idle speed. Replacing it is easy, just count the turns the screw is above fully down, or clockwise. Then unscrew it all the way out, and replace the o-ring. Once the new one is on, and a thin layer of silicone dielectric grease, or Vaseline, is a huge benefit on the o-ring, simply screw it all the way back in, then back CCW to the original starting point. It's a good starting point. Then adjust the screw to about 800 RPM, and put the large cover screw back on.
This is presuming the Idle Bypass air valve is functioning correctly, and completely shut when the engine is fully warmed up. The valve that feeds air into the large air hose that goes into the bottom of throttle body, right under the idle speed adjust screw we're discussing.
Also, while the screw is out, a check of the air passages under it, for cleanliness, is in order. Especially if the o-ring has shed bits down into them.
The o-ring is a small one, obviously, and readily available at most auto parts, or hardware stores.
OK, I'll shut up now....
Pat☺
Like I say, just checking. And just so you know, that screw is the idle speed adjust screw. If everything is working correctly, you screw that screw fully clockwise, it should, SHOULD, shut the idle off entirely. A common problem it has, BTW, is that the o-ring at the base of the screw gets old, brittle, and disintegrates, allowing extra air past the screw, messing up the idle speed. Replacing it is easy, just count the turns the screw is above fully down, or clockwise. Then unscrew it all the way out, and replace the o-ring. Once the new one is on, and a thin layer of silicone dielectric grease, or Vaseline, is a huge benefit on the o-ring, simply screw it all the way back in, then back CCW to the original starting point. It's a good starting point. Then adjust the screw to about 800 RPM, and put the large cover screw back on.
This is presuming the Idle Bypass air valve is functioning correctly, and completely shut when the engine is fully warmed up. The valve that feeds air into the large air hose that goes into the bottom of throttle body, right under the idle speed adjust screw we're discussing.
Also, while the screw is out, a check of the air passages under it, for cleanliness, is in order. Especially if the o-ring has shed bits down into them.
The o-ring is a small one, obviously, and readily available at most auto parts, or hardware stores.
OK, I'll shut up now....
Pat☺
