22RE high cold start idle
11-16-2013, 09:11 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
22RE high cold start idle
I have a 1993 Pickup with a fuel injected 22RE engine.
Lately it has been developing some nasty idle characteristics. The foremost of which is idling at 2,000 rpms on a cold start.
I'm not even taking about a particularly cold morning. It might be in the 50s or 60s and it's idling like a sub arctic morning.
letting the truck warm up in place is a no go either. itll hammer away for minutes on end idling way too high.
eventually after driving it past the first few streets, the first few stop signs will have the idle dripping until eventually it's back to a healthy 700-900 range.
So: What I've already done to try and counter this-
1) Adjusted throttle cable
2) Adjusted idle screw
3) Replaced all vacuum lines
those were the big three responses I got when I posted about this high idle over the summer. Now that winter is practically here, this problem isn't going to fix itself ( or will it? Toyotas like to do that...)
I know an engine idles high when it's cold, but definitely not for this long or at 2k rpms. Anyone have any good thoughts to throw at this problem?
Lately it has been developing some nasty idle characteristics. The foremost of which is idling at 2,000 rpms on a cold start.
I'm not even taking about a particularly cold morning. It might be in the 50s or 60s and it's idling like a sub arctic morning.
letting the truck warm up in place is a no go either. itll hammer away for minutes on end idling way too high.
eventually after driving it past the first few streets, the first few stop signs will have the idle dripping until eventually it's back to a healthy 700-900 range.
So: What I've already done to try and counter this-
1) Adjusted throttle cable
2) Adjusted idle screw
3) Replaced all vacuum lines
those were the big three responses I got when I posted about this high idle over the summer. Now that winter is practically here, this problem isn't going to fix itself ( or will it? Toyotas like to do that...)
I know an engine idles high when it's cold, but definitely not for this long or at 2k rpms. Anyone have any good thoughts to throw at this problem?
11-16-2013, 11:05 AM
#2
Do you ever lube the throttle body linkage??
I do mine every oil change.
Have you ever cleaned your throttle body ??I have had just a small piece of carbon prevent it from closing
i remember some one had the throttle body shaft start to move.
Allowing in extra air
How is the hose coming from the AAV Auxiliary Air Valve if it has not been blocked off
Something in the AAV broke allowing in extra air
I do mine every oil change.
Have you ever cleaned your throttle body ??I have had just a small piece of carbon prevent it from closing
i remember some one had the throttle body shaft start to move.
Allowing in extra air
How is the hose coming from the AAV Auxiliary Air Valve if it has not been blocked off
Something in the AAV broke allowing in extra air
11-24-2013, 07:07 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Caveat to this problem is a recent surging idle issue. It would do it once or twice before, but after a raised eyebrow or quick frown at the tac needle, it would even out. Now every stop is 900 pause at 1000 then rise to 1100 before dropping off sharply back to 900. It then repeats...over and over
11-25-2013, 12:07 PM
#6
Registered User
I think I remember responding to your other thread, I apologize if this is duplicate information.
1. As long as your idle levels out at 800-850 rpm when completely warm, then the idle is set correctly. In the winter months, the coolant will warm up in just a couple of minutes but other parts will still be cold and won't be completely warm until about 15 min of driving. If not, it's too high and lower it to be correct. If you adjust it based off anything else than that then you'll notice on your next longer trip when it gets hot you engine will idle way too low when you come to a stop! Also, if you've done the 7MGE VAFM swap (which I don't think you did) you'll have higher cold idle no matter what. Mine when cold idles at 1800 RPM and warm at 850, and that's just how it is.
2. Remove and clean your throttle cable. It's pretty easy to do, just unhook it from the gas pedal and the throttle body and then remove the 2 bolts from the fire wall. Blast out the housing with carb cleaner and inspect the cable, trimming anything that sticks out. If frayed, replaced. Then lube the new cable with white lithium lube or chain lube and put back together. Guarentee it will at least make your pedal move smoother!
3. Clean out your throttle body, especially around the valve. Might be sticking or have large amounts of buildup keeping the throttle open. It tends to be oily and malleable, so that could explain the fluctuation in RPM's when idling.
1. As long as your idle levels out at 800-850 rpm when completely warm, then the idle is set correctly. In the winter months, the coolant will warm up in just a couple of minutes but other parts will still be cold and won't be completely warm until about 15 min of driving. If not, it's too high and lower it to be correct. If you adjust it based off anything else than that then you'll notice on your next longer trip when it gets hot you engine will idle way too low when you come to a stop! Also, if you've done the 7MGE VAFM swap (which I don't think you did) you'll have higher cold idle no matter what. Mine when cold idles at 1800 RPM and warm at 850, and that's just how it is.
2. Remove and clean your throttle cable. It's pretty easy to do, just unhook it from the gas pedal and the throttle body and then remove the 2 bolts from the fire wall. Blast out the housing with carb cleaner and inspect the cable, trimming anything that sticks out. If frayed, replaced. Then lube the new cable with white lithium lube or chain lube and put back together. Guarentee it will at least make your pedal move smoother!
3. Clean out your throttle body, especially around the valve. Might be sticking or have large amounts of buildup keeping the throttle open. It tends to be oily and malleable, so that could explain the fluctuation in RPM's when idling.
Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 11-25-2013 at 12:08 PM.
11-27-2013, 10:41 AM
#7
I had an interesting idle issue once.
I had taken off the dash pot (the 1" round x 1.5" long black cylinder beside the throttle valve) and cleaned it. Except, I forgot to dry it off. So the little piece of foam was full of cleaner still. It stopped the dash pot from returning to the idle position. It basically held the throttle open at 2-3k RPM constantly, until it released somehow.
I took it back apart, dried the foam, and re-assembled. Engine idled properly.
I had taken off the dash pot (the 1" round x 1.5" long black cylinder beside the throttle valve) and cleaned it. Except, I forgot to dry it off. So the little piece of foam was full of cleaner still. It stopped the dash pot from returning to the idle position. It basically held the throttle open at 2-3k RPM constantly, until it released somehow.
I took it back apart, dried the foam, and re-assembled. Engine idled properly.
Trending Topics
03-10-2014, 01:43 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i assume you fixed your high idle problem.i'm curious if it had anything to do with the auxilary idle air valve , bolted to the bottom of the throttle body with 2 coolant pipes coming out of it.i spent forever checking for vacuum leaks etc. and it turned out to be blocked lines inside the idle air valve and the hose that returns next to the thermostat housing was blocked. thanks ya all for the info on this blog! GL
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jennygirl
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
11
11-17-2015 11:24 AM
jmc88runner
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
06-18-2015 03:39 PM
