22re HG replacement, difficult?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
22re HG replacement, difficult?
I've got an 86 4Runner that had some issues. I've been saving for a rebuilt engine but over the winter I haven't gotten many hours at work and only have about half the money saved that I need. I'm thinking about slapping a head gasket and a new radiator/water pump in it just to drive it until it basically explodes. How hard to do this myself? I have another vehicle so time isn't a huge concern and I have done a timing chain before without a problem. Is it a big deal to resurface the head? I don't want to put any more money into this than a good HG kit and a radiator/water pump if possible. The t-chain and guides look to be pretty much brand new. I want to do this so I can save more money and not just get a rebuilt motor, but get one that is BUILT (and don't tell me 4.3 etc. I want a 22re ). Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions. Engine has about 240k miles on it. The bottom end didn't sound too bad before I parked it but it isn't in the best shape either.
Last edited by Luvmeye22re; 03-11-2008 at 07:12 PM.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I think the headgasket is a very doable project. When I did mine I took a whetstone to the top of the engine block to sort of "resurface" it (not really, but to get all the little bits of gasket off). You may need to have the head milled or at least checked for warpage.
One issue I ran into was this: I had the head totally gone through and when I put it back on the 230k+ mile bottom end, it had more power and compression but then started using oil. Maybe you can just skip the head mill and throw it back on?
One issue I ran into was this: I had the head totally gone through and when I put it back on the 230k+ mile bottom end, it had more power and compression but then started using oil. Maybe you can just skip the head mill and throw it back on?
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
That's kind of what I'm thinking. It already burned a little bit of oil which is to be expected out of a 240k motor (I don't think it saw the needed oil changes either). I really just want to slap an HG in it because for one the motor is pretty much expendable and I plan on replacing it, and two I think it would be a great experience to see if I can do an HG correctly and have it run lol. Even if it lasted 2 months and I could drive my truck for a while it would be GREAT Call me crazy but my Impreza just isn't doing it for me, I'd rather be in my 86 4Runner any day of the week for any drive going anywhere.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've got a 98 Subaru Impreza but it just sucks. Snowboarding season will be over here in late May/early June and within a month or so the 4wheeling trails will be opening up/driveable again. My Impreza rocks for snow and ice, but other than that I want the Runner. I can't fit 2 people, 2 dogs, and camping/recovery equipment for 3-4 days in a Subaru, much less make it anywhere I want to go. I'm sure it will be time consuming because it took me about 16 hours over 3 days to do a timing chain lol. One thing that is strange is the timing chain I did was on an 84 Runner. The carbed motor almost seemed to be more complicated in the belt train/timing cover area than the EFI motor. Is this right or are these motors looking more simple now that I've dug in a little bit? HG worries me still I must say. Mechanics seem to charge more for a vehicle that comes in half apart than they do for a full repair. Untraveled repairs just worry me, especially on my vehicle.
#6
You could do it for the first time in maybe two evenings plus a weekend. I'd have alternative transport set aside for Monday and maybe Tuesday just in case though. It isn't tough, but it is a bit time consuming.
Ideally, you'd do the timing chain at the same time.
Ideally, you'd do the timing chain at the same time.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: INDIANA
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do it it is fairly easy to do just take lots of pics as you go it will make it go faster when putting it back together.it took us a weekend the first time and now I think I could do it in 8 hours if I was in a hurry I like working for only 4 hours at a time keeps me less overwhelmed.
Trending Topics
#9
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Personally, I would give yourself more time than you think you need. It took me about 3 weekends, working at a comfortable pace. You may come across broken exhaust nuts, and other parts that will need to be replaced, and subsequently need time for parts runs and shipping delays. Also, I would suggest using the OE head gasket. You may even want to use new head bolts.
#10
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm going to give it a shot because having a second vehicle in my posession what's the worst that could happen? I'll be in the same place and out the money for just an HG kit. So now here is what I'm planning on for my parts list.
Complete HG kit
Radiator
Water pump
Tchain kit
Head bolts
Anything I'm missing? I'm going to order my parts from Engnbldr.com because I heard he has very high quality parts.
Also for the head. The P.O. said that he put a new head on it and did the HG a few years ago. This 4Runner has gotten hot since I've owned it but not too bad. Should I atleast take the head to get inspected if not machined. I don't want to put much money into the head if possible and I know a lot of times shops will try to oversell you and get you to pay them to rebuild it.
Oh yeah and I will need a torque wrench. Will a 3/8" drive do it or should I look into getting a 1/2" drive?
Complete HG kit
Radiator
Water pump
Tchain kit
Head bolts
Anything I'm missing? I'm going to order my parts from Engnbldr.com because I heard he has very high quality parts.
Also for the head. The P.O. said that he put a new head on it and did the HG a few years ago. This 4Runner has gotten hot since I've owned it but not too bad. Should I atleast take the head to get inspected if not machined. I don't want to put much money into the head if possible and I know a lot of times shops will try to oversell you and get you to pay them to rebuild it.
Oh yeah and I will need a torque wrench. Will a 3/8" drive do it or should I look into getting a 1/2" drive?
Last edited by Luvmeye22re; 03-12-2008 at 02:29 PM.
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: INDIANA
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
before you order those part are you sure that it is a blown head gasket?
on your first post you did not really say what your problem was so what is it doing or not doing?
I use a 1/2 inch craftsman torque wrench and if I have to I use a reducer for 3/8 bits.
I think for you best money spent you are better of buying the engine seal kit from engnbldr
we priced it out and if you only buy the HG you still will need other gaskets that will almost run the same as the HG
you will end up with 2 front main seals and 2 sets of timing cover seals but it is really nice to have extras of those if you ever have to open it back up.
on your first post you did not really say what your problem was so what is it doing or not doing?
I use a 1/2 inch craftsman torque wrench and if I have to I use a reducer for 3/8 bits.
I think for you best money spent you are better of buying the engine seal kit from engnbldr
we priced it out and if you only buy the HG you still will need other gaskets that will almost run the same as the HG
you will end up with 2 front main seals and 2 sets of timing cover seals but it is really nice to have extras of those if you ever have to open it back up.
Last edited by CyMoN; 03-13-2008 at 01:44 AM.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well the radiator is pretty much clogged so I know that is a problem. There is also milkshake under the oil cap and on the dipstick. I haven't drained the oil yet to mess with it. It also had a good steady sweet smelling steam coming from the exhaust pipe when I decided to park it. I will say this, cooling problems usually baffle me but this time I think I've got it nailed. It almost has to be an HG right? I was also experiencing coolant loss without having a leak of any sort.
#14
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well the radiator is pretty much clogged so I know that is a problem. There is also milkshake under the oil cap and on the dipstick. I haven't drained the oil yet to mess with it. It also had a good steady sweet smelling steam coming from the exhaust pipe when I decided to park it. I will say this, cooling problems usually baffle me but this time I think I've got it nailed. It almost has to be an HG right? I was also experiencing coolant loss without having a leak of any sort.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Queen Creek,AZ
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah. I had the same deal with the steady stream of steam billowing out of the tail pipe. I just bought a whole new assembled head that came with all the gaskets required to change the head for $280 with shipping. Not a bad price for a NEW head, valves, & cam. Everything but the rocker arms.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well guess I'll pull the valve cover off and take a look at the guides but I'm pretty sure there is more going on. I did a Tchain on a 22r about 7 months ago and this motor isn't making that same "slapping" sound. I would actually be quite relieved if that was the only problem beside the radiator. The truck has gotten pretty hot on me once or twice but I tried to get it shut off before it got too bad. One of those times I had to take it a little further than I wanted though because I was on the freeway and there was nowhere safe to pull the vehicle over. I'll tear the valve cover off this weekend and see if it's the cover. I'm definitely replacing it while I'm there if I do need a HG.
#17
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I was in your same boat a couple years ago. HG shot on a high mileage engine with a tired bottom end. I couldn't justify putting a performance head on a tired block. Like you I had something else to drive so time was not a concern. I was also in a money crunch at the time so I opted to just do the HG and see what happened. I had the oil water mix going on but no real overheat episodes, much like you. I figured if it didn't work out I'd just have to park it until money got better which is where I was at anyway, so nothing to lose. I'm not a mechanic and this was by far the most involved thing I had ever done. When I got the head off I could see the #1 piston had been steam cleaned by the coolant leak so the problem was pretty obvious. I went totally cheap and didn't even have the thing machined. I did the best I could at checking for warpage with a straight edge but I knew I was cheating. Anyway, put it together all cleaned up and got 'er fired up and she did run for me for a couple years til last Oct when I finally had the $$ for a replacement engine. Tape, sharpie, and digicam are your friend. Mostly I used my Haynes manual and a few consultations with the online '93 FSM.
I used a head gasket kit and new head bolts from engbldr and quality was excellent. I don't think you need t-chain and cover unless your exam shows otherwise. It's always tough to be that far into something and not do it though. The good thing is that everything you have listed above will swap over to a new engine anyways so it's certainly no loss. On the radiator specify for a turbo and you will get a 3 row rad that bolts right up to the factory attachments.
I used a head gasket kit and new head bolts from engbldr and quality was excellent. I don't think you need t-chain and cover unless your exam shows otherwise. It's always tough to be that far into something and not do it though. The good thing is that everything you have listed above will swap over to a new engine anyways so it's certainly no loss. On the radiator specify for a turbo and you will get a 3 row rad that bolts right up to the factory attachments.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Right on thanks for the replies everyone. I am definitely tight on money right now, I would rather just buck up and get a new engine. My truck didn't have overheating issues right off the bat but once it ran a little low on coolant and did get pretty warm twice on the way home, had to park and let it chill. I think this may have actually been what made the HG let go even though I hate to admit it. If the weather is nice this weekend/next week I'm gonna pull the valve cover and see what's going on.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MMA_Alex
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
25
04-18-2017 05:07 AM
TURBOrunnerNM
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
07-22-2015 11:01 AM