22re Finally bit the dust
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
22re Finally bit the dust
Temp gauge gave me no warning and it started billowing steam and finally died as I was coming off the interstate.
Head gasket is for sure done, and there is a strong smell of fuel and a loud knocking when you turn the motor over.
Now I need to figure out what to do next.
New long block?
3.4 swap?
I need someone to do either unfortunately. Anyone want to put a 3.4 in for me?
Head gasket is for sure done, and there is a strong smell of fuel and a loud knocking when you turn the motor over.
Now I need to figure out what to do next.
New long block?
3.4 swap?
I need someone to do either unfortunately. Anyone want to put a 3.4 in for me?
#5
Contributing Member
When that happened to me I went with the long block with HP cam and head. Then you will need to upgrade the exhaust and intake. Couple of thousand $$ when all is done if you install the engine yourself. She is still no race car but she gets me onto the freeway fine and I get 17 to 21 mpg.
Why do you need someone else to do it for you?
Why do you need someone else to do it for you?
Last edited by Buck87; 07-14-2012 at 12:06 PM.
#7
Registered User
how much money you got to have someone swap motors?
took me about 3 months to do mine.
stick, tig and mig welding. lots of fab work, reused the old motor mounts.
tons of time but i love my 3.4, glad i spent the money and time.
good luck gettin the yota back on the road.
took me about 3 months to do mine.
stick, tig and mig welding. lots of fab work, reused the old motor mounts.
tons of time but i love my 3.4, glad i spent the money and time.
good luck gettin the yota back on the road.
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#8
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
When that happened to me I went with the long block with HP cam and head. Then you will need to upgrade the exhaust and intake. Couple of thousand $$ when all is done if you install the engine yourself. She is still no race car but she gets me onto the freeway fine and I get 17 to 21 mpg.
Why do you need someone else to do it for you?
Why do you need someone else to do it for you?
#9
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
how much money you got to have someone swap motors?
took me about 3 months to do mine.
stick, tig and mig welding. lots of fab work, reused the old motor mounts.
tons of time but i love my 3.4, glad i spent the money and time.
good luck gettin the yota back on the road.
took me about 3 months to do mine.
stick, tig and mig welding. lots of fab work, reused the old motor mounts.
tons of time but i love my 3.4, glad i spent the money and time.
good luck gettin the yota back on the road.
What I would really like is to find someone who has a good place to work near me and would help me work on the project with them and I would pay them.
#11
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Location: Sedalia, MO
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Speaking fro experience the Om617 swap is not necessarily bolt in.It can be but no matter how bolt in something may seem there is always something that gets hay wire. The Tdswaps kit is fairly close though. I believe its about $1000 for their full kit and they have good stuff. If you are going to have someone do it, it may get spendy. If you were closer I'd be glad to help you with a swap.
#12
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iTrader: (1)
Speaking fro experience the Om617 swap is not necessarily bolt in.It can be but no matter how bolt in something may seem there is always something that gets hay wire. The Tdswaps kit is fairly close though. I believe its about $1000 for their full kit and they have good stuff.
#13
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
So I've been reading and searching and weighing my options and I think there's 3 viable options.
One other thing... My transmission was about to go before the engine went, so in any scenario I would need to do something about the transmission as well.
1) New 22r short block from LCE, a head from ENGNBLDR and a W56 from Marlin.
I looked at LCE long blocks but it appears it will be easier to go the aforementioned route.
2) 7m of some variety swap and a W56 from marlin.
I like this idea because I will be able to bolt up the rebuilt tranny I get from marlin.
3) 3.4 swap. I think this is the more well known route with a more available motor and better aftermarket support. But it will also likely be the most expensive.
One other thing... My transmission was about to go before the engine went, so in any scenario I would need to do something about the transmission as well.
1) New 22r short block from LCE, a head from ENGNBLDR and a W56 from Marlin.
I looked at LCE long blocks but it appears it will be easier to go the aforementioned route.
2) 7m of some variety swap and a W56 from marlin.
I like this idea because I will be able to bolt up the rebuilt tranny I get from marlin.
3) 3.4 swap. I think this is the more well known route with a more available motor and better aftermarket support. But it will also likely be the most expensive.
#14
Contributing Member
So I've been reading and searching and weighing my options and I think there's 3 viable options.
One other thing... My transmission was about to go before the engine went, so in any scenario I would need to do something about the transmission as well.
1) New 22r short block from LCE, a head from ENGNBLDR and a W56 from Marlin.
I looked at LCE long blocks but it appears it will be easier to go the aforementioned route.
2) 7m of some variety swap and a W56 from marlin.
I like this idea because I will be able to bolt up the rebuilt tranny I get from marlin.
3) 3.4 swap. I think this is the more well known route with a more available motor and better aftermarket support. But it will also likely be the most expensive.
One other thing... My transmission was about to go before the engine went, so in any scenario I would need to do something about the transmission as well.
1) New 22r short block from LCE, a head from ENGNBLDR and a W56 from Marlin.
I looked at LCE long blocks but it appears it will be easier to go the aforementioned route.
2) 7m of some variety swap and a W56 from marlin.
I like this idea because I will be able to bolt up the rebuilt tranny I get from marlin.
3) 3.4 swap. I think this is the more well known route with a more available motor and better aftermarket support. But it will also likely be the most expensive.
Do you mean 22re short block?
#15
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Yeah.
My biggest beef with staying with the 22re is the lack of available power. I mean, you can spend a fortune and still only get 200 hp and relatively poor fuel economy.
Any way you slice it I'm going to have to wait a while to fix it. We can't afford to cut our emergency fund in half at this point.
My biggest beef with staying with the 22re is the lack of available power. I mean, you can spend a fortune and still only get 200 hp and relatively poor fuel economy.
Any way you slice it I'm going to have to wait a while to fix it. We can't afford to cut our emergency fund in half at this point.
Last edited by bob200587; 07-18-2012 at 10:07 AM.
#16
Contributing Member
A 22re is not going to give you 200 horse power. Probably not gonna get 150 hp, but if you want to go wheeling it has plenty of power to rock crawl.
If you go with a 22re for climbing off road trails then don't waste a lot of money on horse power, spend $$ on traction and gearing. That is my philosophy.
If you go with a 22re for climbing off road trails then don't waste a lot of money on horse power, spend $$ on traction and gearing. That is my philosophy.
#17
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
A 22re is not going to give you 200 horse power. Probably not gonna get 150 hp, but if you want to go wheeling it has plenty of power to rock crawl.
If you go with a 22re for climbing off road trails then don't waste a lot of money on horse power, spend $$ on traction and gearing. That is my philosophy.
If you go with a 22re for climbing off road trails then don't waste a lot of money on horse power, spend $$ on traction and gearing. That is my philosophy.
I saw the dyno results form their stage 5 motor.
A 22re has been part of my life since I was born and I know all about it and especially it's limitations.
I've got a dead motor and replacing it with the same one that gets terrible mpg for a 4cylinder and is a pig as far as power goes...
Why not have an equally reliable, more powerful, equally fuel efficient motor?
#18
Contributing Member
#19
Registered User
have you looked at a 3rz swap? 150 hp stock.
toy only swaps does 3rz and 5vz.
i dont know how bolt in they are. call TOS they were helpfull when i did my swap.
toy only swaps does 3rz and 5vz.
i dont know how bolt in they are. call TOS they were helpfull when i did my swap.
#20
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Thread Starter