92 TOY

1st of all, Yes, I searched.

So much of the advice I found was based on the vehicle being a 5-speed.

Mine is an automatic.

How in the name of all that is good, can I get the crankshaft bolt off?

I'll post some pics of the carnage.

-broken cam sprocket

-broken breaker bar (ironic ain't it?)

I have the pulley tied off tight and I'm sure it's not going to move.

I'm gonna asume I need an impact driver.....what should I ask for. As you know, space is limited. I'm imagining something along the profile of an angle grinder.

Any tips or tricks (again , dont say "put it in 5th etc...etc...etc''.....that WON'T work here.)

92 TOY

as it looks right now

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OOPS.....

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an earlier fail......

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FAIL........

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FAIL........

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The book says, chain wrench..........I think I've acomplished that with what I've done, now is the question of getting it loose.........holding it steady seems like it's been achieved.....

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92 TOY

Oh yeah, 1 more.

See the part about AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.

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yodta

how long's your breaker bar?
was it 1/2-inch or 3/8?

One of my friends "made" a rudimentary version of the Toyota SST for this job. he used the square tubing (I think it was even that cheap sign post stuff) and a cheap Harbor Freight step drill bit from both sides until he got the desired diameter to allow for a socket over the the crank bolt. then drilled two holes for the bolts and attached it to the balancer. BUT, you say you've got that part covered.

depending on the quality of your breaker bar, I'd say try again, only make sure it's a decent quality 1/2-inch drive. and then put a pipe on the end. and sort of rock it instead of trying to wrench it off in one move. I may be wrong here, but years ago when I was a kid who couldn't even change his own oil, I had a set of Chrome Vanadium tools. sounded kinda tough, but that stuff was complete crap, so steer clear of that. I had a couple of broken sockets and bent wrenches.

might try some Kroil, too, or PB Blaster.

as for an impact wrench, I can't speak for the space there as I've never used one for this.
just a note, however, to watch out for bargain impact guns; the one I got that came with my compressor was supposed to do up to 250ft-lbs, but it wouldn't even pull wheel lugs at 75ft-lbs. talk about anticlimactic. I ended up investing in an Ingersoll Rand twin hammer unit that works really well, and was reasonably priced in a kit with an air ratchet from Lowe's.

I just went out and eyeballed mine. it definitely looks tight, but you might be able to pull it off with a standard impact socket.

92 TOY

well, a few things.

it was an 18'' 3/8 drive. so I guess it didn't stand a chance. yes, I've heard the phrase "shock" itoff same way as an impact would pound it off.

PB blastered it few times already.

I will have to get a new breaker bar. This time a 1/2'' drive.

I like that SST trick, but as you acknowledged, I think I have that covered.

A neighbor loaned me a DEWALT electric impact wrench but it was about 5'' too long.

troubled87

Not going to say this is the best way to do it, but when I had to do mine i put the socket on the bolt, let the breaker bar touch the ground (on the driver side i think?) and bump the starter (not sure you can from the pictures). That was the only way i was able to get mine free. When the crank goes to spin and the bar holds the bolt mine came loose with one tiny bump. Just be extremely careful. Friend broke some serious s**t letting his truck start while attempting this maneuver. Also if the bar is on the wrong side it will go flying all the way around until it hits the ground. But if you do it right it is REALLY REALLY easy.

Hope this helps

92 TOY

Sorry, I should have been clearer.

Head is off, intake and exhaust off.

Timing chain cover and chain has to be replaced.

Cannot be started.

874runnersr5

thats what i did, i put a towel at the end where it would contact the frame and i gave 'r

troubled87

Was not sure if it would be possible for you.

Think you could cut the time chain off so it would not bind, and hook the starter and give it a bump? As long as EVERYTHING is clear may work

Just a thought. Only way I have ever taken that bolt off of any motor.

Good luck.

Camrog91

Anyone tried the kd toyota/lexas harmonic balancer tool? I saw one in a matco catalog wondering if its a good investment.

Lumpy

92 I didn't realize that was a 3/8 I just figured it was a 1/2. Snag a 1/2 Bar and use a 3lb persuader and give it a few knocks then have at it. The bounce trice works well use a pipe!

bugs1961

Make one of these. Mine has been used dozens of times for many years and has worked great.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

LITLRED

Try this:
1/2 in breaker bar with 6 point socket, lifetime warranty.
6 foot steel cheater pipe
Best aerosol bolt spray you can find, the Freeze-Off stuff seems to work well.
About 10 feet of 3/8 in rope
Small sledge

Find a cyllinder where the piston is at the bottom and stuff the rope in to secure the crank.
Spray the bolt following instructions on the can.
Heave on the bar while at the same time bang on the bolt with the sledge.
This worked for me.

92 TOY

BUGS1961

actually when I searched, your's was the only helpful posting I found. But then I thought that maybe what I had was the same....might be wrong though.

See picture below.....it's the "Y" shape that looks similar to your's.

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LUMPY.....yeah, I'm gonna get a 1/2 drive.....i was out there, looks like it's about 8'' from pulley to crosspiece under a/c radiator thingy behind my grille....so not much room for a run-of-the-mill air gun. I know OLHARLEY was the one that said it needs to be "shocked" of, same as with an impact wrench or a good beating.

yodta

the way to avoid that problem is to disconnect the coil wire so it *can't* start; it can only turn over, but not run.


some great ideas here. I'm pretty sure it'll pop loose with a 1/2-inch bb and some combination of the aforementioned.

something else you might try before getting too radical, try chocking the wheels, and then try rocking/shocking that breaker bar, maybe rap that bolt on the head a few times beforehand.

abecedarian

so, chain's toast as is the cam sprocket and such- not sure why you'd think you could break over 100 lb-ft of torque with the cast cam gear (100 lbs at the crank means 200 lbs at the cam) ... but okay, that damage is done... as your pictures reveal.

let's go back a bit and figure what you can do-
head is still on so... what's that got to do with anything?
- loosen all the rocker arms so all the valves will be closed therefore no chance of damaging one if a piston comes around...
... which leads to:
starter still installed?
- if not, put it back on. loosen the valves like I said above. if you're staring at the crankshaft from the radiator end, it spins clock-wise so... put a 17mm socket and 1/2" breaker up against the top of the frame rail on the right (you're still looking at it from the radiator end so maybe by where the air filter is), then bump the starter so it turns the crankshaft thus loosening your bolt.

abecedarian

can't rock it with an automatic.

yodta

yeah how's that work? never worked on one.

92 TOY

guys....

the head is off.

all that's left is the block and the oil-pan still in the truck.

this started as a timing cover change with head removal after a MASSIVE failure of one or the other......which now looks like it was totally the timing chain cover (see my thread below).

i was just outside measuring , yeah at 6am.....but it was something to do while having a coffee and a smoke.....and it looks like there's about 7 inches to work in ,in front of the bolt, so i am assuming a traditional impact gun won't fit.

the truth is I will be getting a new breaker bar....next week around payday....longer and at least a 1/2'' drive and a corresponding 6 point 1/2'' 19mm socket.......unless i can borrow one before that.....borrowing resources are limited......so likely I will just buy one.

Lumpy

If you pull the Rad you'll have a bit more room as well. Don't recall this being taken out.