PirateMcgee

So I am installing my new performance long block from oregon engines this weekend. This will be my first brand new engine so what do you guys recommend for first startup and to break in the new engine?

Thanks

oh and will also be installing a new clutch kit

drew303

search... =)

and now anticipate a lot of varied opinions on break ins.


every respectable mechanic I've ever spoke with or known has all told me one thing. Drive it like you normally do.

before you get there tho, do a proper cam break in. which is 2000-2500 rpm (constant, dont vary) for 15-20 minutes RIGHT when you start up the motor for the first time.

ofcourse, make sure you have oil and pressure, etc... and its not overheating.

it can be hard cuz timing has to still be set etc.. but after the cam break in (important) ... drive it like normal.

now begins the entourage of people saying, beat it like you're single, rev it high, gotta break in those rings etc..yadadada, prevent glazing on the piston walls, etc etc....

i think your best bet is just drive it normal, dont beat on it, and vary the rpm's, dont let it sit at one speed for prolooooonged periods of time...

ironroad9c1

ok , you need to break the cam in as posted above,then make sure your timing is set, don't forget to short out the check engine connector if you have F.I. but after that , you can drive it , but what you want to do it drive it so that you are loading the engine, fairly hard acceleration but only for a short time , find road that goes up hill and pull up the hill at a pretty good clip and then drive normal for a few min and then go down the hill and let the engine do the braking, the thing you are trying t accomplish when you are breaking in a engine , is getting the cyl pressure up so it will pus the rings against the wall of the cyl and set the rings, your not breaking in bearing and anything else, all you are doing is setting the rings, and if you have no hills just do several fairly aggressive accelerations and then let the egine slow you down, don't push in the clutch, do that sevral times right after you break in the cam and then just drive normal avaoiding any trips to the redline, don't be afraid to hurt it though, worst thing you can do to a engine your breaking in is baby it, you have to seat those rings , or it will take forever and don't let it sit there and idle for anything longer than say a few min when you start this, always vary the engine speed when driving also, don't cruise at 1 rpm setting for any length of time for the first 500 miles. and don't use synthetic oil till 1,500 miles or so, just use the cheapest oil you can get cause its gonna get dirty , and nasty and you are not gonna keep it in long, also , change it right after you break in the cam, do use a good filter though, wix or napa.car quest filters are wix brand if you have one of those around, then change you oil/filter at 500 miles, then 1500, then go with normal 3k or little longer if you are useing synthetic oil.

Trustyrusty

Drive it like you normally do.

OR

Beat it like a redheaded stepchild.

PirateMcgee

I work at a lube shop while going to school so castrol oil is free I figured I'll run 10w30 until it gets some miles and then switch to syntec.

Are long trips ok after setting the rings and cam break in?

I need to drive it home about 70 miles up a mountain pass as long a I vary rpm, gears and load?

oh and we have lots of hills and mountains around here its southern OR!

Trustyrusty

Break the cam in, and then drive it like you normally do, change the oil every 1,000 miles for the first 3 times, then your all set..

ironroad9c1

Do it like I posted , I have built 100"s on engines.it needs to be loaded hard the first few miles. change the oil after the cam break in cause you don't want that metal and assy lube floating around the engine for a 1,000 miles. and yea after the first 1,500 miles you can drive it any way you want
don't baby it, if something is wrong and its breaks , it was wrong to begin with. I would use 5w30 if you can get it.

Or if you don't believe me do it like these guys say... after all it is the Engine builders association
http://www.aera.org/downloads/BIP.pdf

Trustyrusty

Looks like someone is trying to start crap again..

ironroad9c1

ignore

Trustyrusty

I bet you stayed up all night thinking of that one..

Look man, do it either way, I'm sure it'll be fine as long as the engine was built right. Hows the cam sound?

Whiplash Willy

Good luck with the new engine. Give us a review of the engine once you have some mileage on it. Which engine did you get from them? The Stock one or the Performance one with new head casting and perf cam?

PirateMcgee

I have access to every oil weight and type so I will run a 5w30 I guess

I got the performance one with cam, high flow head, high volume oil pump and higher compression ratio

ironroad9c1

before you start it , pick up a bottle of crane cams break in lube to add to the oil to help keep the cam safe. due to the lack of zink in regular oil.

john4wd

I'm Resurrecting an old thread on my current final stage of my re-build, I got it started, after a delay of forgetting to tighten the banjo fuel bolt and injector rail, but once It was tighten I then tried it again and it started right up, but sputtered and wouldn't stay running without holding the throttle via on the TB at just above idle, a few time I reved the motor and so I fought it for like 25 to 30 minutes and finally got it to idle after adjust the idle screw on TB and messing with distributor and so I didn't get to the break-in for a new cam procedure before it got dark and I had to head home, I didn't get to do the valve lash adjustment or the head bolt re torque when it was warm either.

So I'm asking did that whole mishap ruin the cam break-in, or just blow it off and do break-in anyway?

I used alot of assembly lube I got from NAPA on the lobes and I put in 1/2 bottle of lucas oil zinc additive I got from NAPA (I poured a little bit of the zinc additive over the cam and lifters before putting valve cover on) and used walmart super tech 10w-40 oil and filter for the break-in and and will change the oil and filter after the before driving break-in, and was going to use the other 1/2 bottle on next recommended break-in oil change for 500 or 1000 miles and then after that is removed, I'll be using rotella 6 and toy oem filters...
Let me know, Thanks...

john4wd

Nothing?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey John, .... hope you're ok... Know that can be stressful! .........

1st; Gotta be patient on weekends, ....ESPECIALLY Sunday, haha. All the multiple threads I'm scribed to are DEAD on Weekends, worst of all Sunday, then suddenly, Sunday night/Monday Morning, THEY LIGHT UP! lol...

2nd; You're going to hear some varying opinions on this. Regardless, when people say, "You might have f'd it up",.... at least for now, IGNORE IT! lol. Reason? Because what's done is done, IF ANYTHING bad has been done AT ALL in the first place! Ya know?

3rd; You can NOT really ever do this PERFECTLY... but the reason for the varying RPM speed(as recommended by the manufacturer), then holding it at 30 seconds at a time at 2000rpm, then up to 2500, then down to 1800, then back up again, for 20 minutes...again, the reason?... Premature CAM Failure syndrome. With all the lube, Zinc(which many machinists feel is a waste of money..... Again, SEE how confusing and conflicting it can be? lol).... with all that you added, it's probably just fine, .... but honestly???? I WOULD CALL TOD at engnbldr.com..(or Email Ted) Tell him what happened and then what parts are in there, and then ask him, ..."Should I even bother with a CAM 'break in' plan at this point???" My guess would be that it's now broken in how it's going to be, for good... But ask him anyhow, right? I mean, ...he DESIGNS AND MAKES Cams.. Grinds them, etc., ... he would know, FOR SURE! (22reperformance.com could be a good call to make as well... The Putney's know their stuff, WELL, just as Tod does).

You want your rocker pads(which I assume have been lapped?) to make a home in this new CAM's lobes.... If it's left idling too long, it CAN but does NOT ALWAYS cause premature-early cam failure.

Far as tightening/checking the head bolts, ... adjusting the valves... If you've run it for 30+ minutes now, I would just, as I said, change the oil, adjust the valves, then use whatever Tod or Ted or the Putney's tell ya for this unique but not TOTALLY uncommon situation.

Far as Rotella.... ANOTHER loaded and very conflicting report you will get on that. My personal experience is to wait til around 5K miles if you've dealing with a fresh block/seals, etc. Rear and front mains, as well as other seals, can often take a bit of time breaking in with engine oil (and HOPEFULLY the lil dab of Red Grease you slathered on them before installing the oil pump/cover and rear seal over the cranks end) before they're thoroughly sealed up to the surfaces they're riding on(harmonic/rear of crank, etc.).... THOSE things, along with the engines attempt to seat the rings as quickly as possible, is usually the explanation I've received from the "PRO's" as to "WHY WAIT for Synthetic?"....... BUTTTTTTTT, ...again, why not ask Tod and Ted and Putney's what they feel, pertaining to this number of questions you have, right?

Best wishes, John... I think I can say as much as anyone that "I UNDERSTAND what it's like for things to not work out as planned!" .... Ya know? I would be willing to bet that you're ok, and from this point on, just 'DRIVE IT LIKE YOU OWN IT', along with the couple more frequent oil changes, etc., that come along with the "rules for a new motor".

Buck87

Did you get the hypereutectic pistons? If you did then ignion timing and fuel mixture is very important because preignition will destroy them fast! It is not easy to hear detonation in these engins so pay attention. Good luck!

john4wd

Well first off, how often does a restart go perfect without adjustments, mine just took longer than I expected, just my luck, I didn't do a complete rebuild, just the upper part, after I got the idle all worked out it ran great, no weird noise's or knocks/knocking or leaks anywhere up to the point I had to end it, My main worry was re-sealed housing on rear of engine and tranny because I replaced both seals and used FIPG on sealing housings. I'll be crushed if I get a leak at the bell housing.

I'll email ted and send my story I posted here and see what he says. How much cool down time in between, till the engine is cold cold? first thing tomorrow is I need a new battery, had to start truck with my other trucks battery because toy battery was almost 5 years old and won't hold a charge now after sitting for 5 months. I don't have money for an optima yellow top presently so got to get one that less than $100 bucks, I have a everstart in B2300 for 3 years and 3 winters and not one problem so getting another one tomorrow. I think I'm going to take rotella 6 back to walmart also and exchange for valvoline 10w30, I used it for over 100,000K on my 87 toy till I sold it, so I'll keep using it.

Well I'm stuck with what ever I have now, Thanks chef for responding. Have a good night...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

John..... don't sweat whatcha don't know is even wrong yet, right? It's NOT likely that you f'd anything up, k? Just think it's good to get it all out there, the multiple variables, ...that way we know what to look for, listen for, etc., right?

Far as just doing the top end... Still wanna change the oil after 20 minutes, especially with a new cam(20 min., 30 min... whatever, lol).

Far as your mention of the rear main seal... did you mention that because you didn't use any grease or soak it good with oil? ..... I'm sure you did the sealing up of the housing and input shaft housing just fine, man. Did you do the corners with RTV where that rear main seal housing touches the block and oil pan?

PS> Are you throwing all this down on your build thread?

Mr.Utah

Well, nothing to add on break in procedures. However, make sure your rear main seal is installed properly, otherwise major pita.

When I did my new long block, I changed the oil after 30 minutes of running, it came out like 3,000 mile oil. Keep changing oil often.