92civeg

i recently bought a 87 pickup that was barley running, got a good deal on a weber 34 so i put it on and did a desmog. It runs and idles well, but when i go to shut her off she wants to keep running. Also if i shut it off and come back 10 min later it has a hard time starting and i really have to bring it back it life (revving to clear it out) when it begins to start.

-it has brand new plugs/wires
-ive set ignition timing to 0 degrees
-idle seems to be set properly(screw it backed all the way out but it seems to be idleing under 1000 rpms)
-Idle mix turned out approx 2 turns

the weber 34 does not have a fuel cut solenoid, and im kind of at a loss ive read maybe try installing a fuel pressure regulator?

i called the weber north america hotline and the guy on the phone suggested that i set my timing between 8 and 12 degrees (seemed like a lot to me) anyone have any insight?

if only it ran as good as it looks!!!!!

92civeg

adjusted timing to 8 degrees,and it still wants to keep running

JonnyBoy

Do you have a picture, or can you get a picture of where the passenger side idle jet is installed? Possibly even what the screw looks like inside? If the 34's use the same idle jets as the 32/36's you could just order a fuel cut solenoid for the 32/36 and install it. A fuel pressure regulator might be a good idea, too, but I'm not sure if the 34 Solex's(I guess they're not really made by Weber) have the same issues with higher pressures like the Webers do. I would kind of think so, though. Very similarly designed. Some people have had good luck running 32/36's without a regulator too, though.

Edit: Nevermind, looked up the idle jets and they appear different. Maybe your idle jet is too large? Is it running rich at all?

92civeg

it smells a little rich but i have the idle mix set to baseline settings (2 turns out), this is my first carbed vehicle so im kind of running out of ideas, should i leave the timing advanced or revert to factory specs? adjusting it didnt seem to make any difference as far a the dieseling.

thanks

JonnyBoy

I have found my 22r to run better with a little timing advance, I think about 6 is where I'm at now. The 34 is a synchronous(both barrels open at the same time) carb, right? Is there an idle mix screw on both barrels?

Ezrider_92356

try doing a sea foam treatment to the motor to remove carbon also try going 1 step colder with the plugs.

92civeg

no the 34 is a progressive carb, there is only 1 idle mix screw, i have it 2 turns out from screwed all the way in.

thanks for any help...where can a get a decent fuel pressure regulator?

xxxtreme22r

Holley regulator is what I use and you might jst need a fuel shutoff solenoid. I did. SOme have not. Some will argue you should need one, but even the factory carbs had one. Has to be a reason is how I look at it.

Not sure if they make one for that solex 34/34 though.

92civeg

where did you get your regulator? is it just a universal type? I dont know if there is a place on the 34 where i could add a cut solenoid, there has to be something im overlooking!

xxxtreme22r

got mine at summit. The cut solenoid would go into the same place as the primary idle jet. It replaces the idle jet holder.

PlanB

I had the dieseling problem in a very similar situation. After weeks of tying all sorts of things I figured it out. I found that the spring that closes the throttle was too weak to fully close for the new carburetor position. Added a new spring and the dieseling stopped for good.
This was on an 85 2wd with same carb and desmog switch.

92civeg

you say your throttle return spring was weak? or is there another spring somewhere, i added a throttle return spring already because if i push it to the floor it would stay there!

thanks for all the help guys, i cant wait to get this lined out

xxxtreme22r

yeah I had to add a supplemental spring as well to mine, but till I put the cut sol on it still dieseled down.

This is on a brand new motor too. Well rebuilt.

blake.nemitz

i would say it keeps firing off hot carbon on the inside of the motor. clean it out it will go away

xxxtreme22r

what about a motor with 8,000 miles on it? doubt enough carbon build up on the pistons to make a difference like that.

Typically a dieseling motor is because it's over hot (not overheated) Usually from running a little lean or too hot of a plug.

Could be ignition related too but that run on is usually due to aftermarket ignitions. Not sure if that kinda of problem can happen with the toyota igniter system.

blake.nemitz

i must have missed the milage part, had a long fun drunk night last night so im a little slow this mornin

xxxtreme22r

haha no no that is my mileage, not the O.P's. But issue was the same. O.P. I don't think mentioned his mileage, but yes carbon build up can cause a dieseling too if it's bad enough. Mainly because it changes the compression ratio of the engine making the unburnt fuel in the cyl burn easier. Wouldn't hurt to seafoam and see if it helps.

92civeg

seafoam sounds like a good idea, im running the ngk plugs that my local carquest recommended to me, the motor has about 144xxx on it....i hope that does the trick, it seems to be getting worse the more i drive it....if it were carbon buildup though wouldnt it have dieseled with my stock carb on it too? does anyone have a picture of a fuel cut solenoid installed so i can see where and if adding one would be possible


thanks a ton!

SCToy

I have a dieseling problem with a stock carb on an 81 22r. I also have a weak throttle return spring, may I ask where you got yours? I went to the stealership and they didn't have one. *End Hi-Jack*

1Digger

I had trouble getting my Weber 34 to run right too. I took off the factory fuel pump, made a block off plate, used a 4PSI electric and haven't looked back. Plus, when you start it, all you have to do is set the choke and let the fuel pump run a little and it starts right up! I just wired the pump into the green factory plug that was attached to the original carb. That is also where I got power for the electric choke.
Hope this helps! Very nice truck BTW