Bozack

I searched and did not come up with a definitive answer. I have a 2wd that the head is warped on it (came that way when I bought it...water pump failure) and a 4Runner both of 86/87 vintage. I discovered a huge section of cancer on the 4runner's chassis. I thought I would borrow the 4Runner engine to get the 2wd going while I am waiting for a friend to finish with his parts 4Runner than replace that chassis and rebuild the 2wd's engine. Sorry this is long. I went to change the pans and etc and found 1 thrust washer in the pan of the 4Runner's engine, which was rebuilt about 5k ago. Money is tight as I am getting laid off from Freightliner in 2 weeks, so I am pinching $ hard. I checked the block, rod, and cap for wear and there is absolutely no shavings in the pan nor any damage to the engine I can see without taking the caps off. The washer did take a couple of hits (see pic). I know I need replace that washer, but the question is can I just replace that set (or one) and do I need to replace the rod bearings???? What is the cheapest way I can repair this engine I guess I am trying to ask??? I have rebuilt several engines, just not yotas, although I have owned 5 of them. HELP!!!

22mr2

Id say just to be safe, pul one of the rod bearing caps and check for uneven wear. With the crank moving that much back and forth, it may have given you a uneven wear pattern in the bearings on the rods. If they look rough, grab a new set of bearings and double check with plastiguage to make sure the journals on the crank are not tapered. Ive never seen a t washer fall out like that

Bozack

I never thought this happened either. Thanks for the suggestion...I will have to pull that one out anyway.
Thanks,
Roy

drew303

wow

Im pretty sure you can't buy just a bearing, or washer, they always come in sets. Worst case scenario you need to have the crankshaft re-machined and new bearings that fit the new diameter of the bearing journals.

Usuually a few hundred bones =/

Best case scenario, pull the bearing cap, somehow locate just one bearing and new washers and slap it back together and run it.

Bozack

I am hoping to just get a set of thrust washers...but my luck. I was doing the engine swap outside as the 84 is in the garage apart. Weather has turned horrible and it is impossible to move my hoist now due to the mud. I hope to be able to get back to it Tuesday...if they are wrong about the snow tonight. Will keep my fingers crossed and let you know what I find then.

desconhecido

Just for reference:

22re.com offers reground cranks with rod and main bearings and thrust washers for $170. Suppose you have to pay shipping to and fro, but it's a reference for how expensive it it.

Engnbldr has the bearings + tw for $54 + shipping.

Bozack

Well I finally got up the hill to work on that engine. Looks bad. I am not 100% sure so I ask this question...Is there a possibility that using full size bolts on the plate that goes between the flywheel and the block can pop out the thrust bearings? This is something I found when I dropped the trans back off of the motor. The bolts have worn down a good 1/8, but are sill in contact (when you push the crank back forward). Anyway, I am going to start pulling the crank and get ready to drop a "lightly" used one in soon...unless someone has any other ideas. I did find all the thrust washers...they are marked up real bad and you can see the crank was pulling toward the rear of the engine. The main bearings had not worn too bad, but as you can see they were starting.
Thank for the help.

jrealmuto1

Then tell me something.. All four of my thrust bearings wheee lying in my pan. I got a new set for $16.00 question is, where do they go? I got the pan off and I am clueless.

xxxtreme22r

I would highly doubt the new thrust washers will last very long in a block that the crank shaft was allowed to walk back and forth hitting the bloc as it turns. You most likely score the heck outta that crank and the block. If your thrust washers are shot, your rod bearings are not much further away from being spun. The rod bearings (#4 mainly) are usually the first to go.

Besides you cannot replace thrust washers without pulling the crank, which means pulling the block which also means you should also pull out the rods. Yes you can keep it an assembly and pull it out from the bottom of the motor, but will be next to impossible to put back into the block from the bottom end. I would also say the thrust journals on the crank and block need to be machined and oversized ones used in their place.

Overall what I am trying to say is its time for a rebuild buddy.

jrealmuto1

Lol or i put the pan back on and ride it till it blows haha...kinds sucks too being I only had the truck 3 days and wanted to change the pan gasket and found them...

xxxtreme22r

you had said the engine was rebuilt 5,000 miles ago? by who? I'd be finding out who did the work and slap this baby on his front doorsteps and say fix your $%&

jrealmuto1

Mine wasn't rebuilt, his
might have been ^ ....mine has 190k and ran like a champ for 3 days...till the starter
started dragging and the front seal
started leaking along with a loud tapping noise at 5000 rpms...then to
discover the bearings in my pan..found a used
motor for $500 but who knows if it'll have the same problem..guess I'll
ride till it dies then buy a new motor...I still have my 300zx