chevyoto

i have a 22r that I am rebuilding and after putting the crankshaft I tightened the main bearing and thrush bearings and it was a little difficult to turn the crankshaft but it still turned. After putting the pistons in and torqued down the rod bearings and now the crankshaft is seized up. The entire time we have been putting oil on the parts but it is just regular motor oil and it was from the engine so it was used previously. I have never encountered this before and I am hoping someone else has and can help me out.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Did you make sure to put the main and rod caps back in the proper order as in numbering which cylinder they belonged to before taking it apart?

PowerstrokeJoe

Did you use plasitgauge to check the clearance on all of the bearings. It is not really an exact thing but it will give you an idea. I just finished rebuilding the engine in my truck and the first set of bearings I got were oversized but in a standard package. You might mic the crank too. You need to make sure that all bearing caps are on the right direction and in order as well as making sure the pistons are in the same jugs.

chevyoto

Didn't use plastiguage, but I did mic the crank, main and rod caps were numbered. I did just pull everything out and put it in another block and molly lube. It is turning a little more freely now but it still needs a wrench to turn and not by hand.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Try using some plastigauge to see where you are at, but if you put everything into another block, you may need to get it line bored.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

In addition to what the previous guys have said as far as checking everything, if it makes you feel any better I had the same issue and asked on this board also. A couple guys (edit: seemed to agree) it was probably the new hardware and to try turning with the help of a socket wrench....which I could so I kept going with my build. Unfortunately I'm not done so can't tell you any more than that.

Before I took it apart I could turn it by hand. Then I had my crank checked and ground down .010, new oem taiho rod/main/thrusts bearings to match, block checked and honed cylinder walls, and new npr pistons/rings. I did green plasti-guage all bearings and had proper readings and used clevite assembly lube. After assembly I could only turn by a 1/2" socket but didn't use much muscle though. I'm pretty confident it's fine and I'm being a little paranoid with my first full rebuild.

chevyoto

I got everything back in and guess what? The timing chain was put on while the first piston was down. Does anyone have any tricks to moving the timing chain without taking the timing cover off.