22R - Odd Issue
11-01-2009, 07:14 AM
#1
22R - Odd Issue
I have an odd issue with my 22R that I wanted to run by everyone. It starts OK and runs fine.. fine until you get to about 60 - 65 mph and going up an incline (any incline .. from very slight to a hill). At this time, it really starts bucking and nothing helps except to back off the gas and let it slow down to around 50. From there it seems somewhat OK.
I have inspected the existing plugs, wires and dist and all seems OK. I have all of this on order and it should be showing up this week. I replaced the fuel filter the other day (the one on there was probably installed back in 2005). The air filter looks OK too but I plan on replacing that.
The P.O. mentioned this to me and said he didn't know what it could be. He did have the carb rebuilt (I have receipt).
At any other speed (below 60) - it seems just fine.
I have inspected the existing plugs, wires and dist and all seems OK. I have all of this on order and it should be showing up this week. I replaced the fuel filter the other day (the one on there was probably installed back in 2005). The air filter looks OK too but I plan on replacing that.
The P.O. mentioned this to me and said he didn't know what it could be. He did have the carb rebuilt (I have receipt).
At any other speed (below 60) - it seems just fine.
11-01-2009, 07:42 AM
#2
On acceleration and idle and everything else its fine until hgih speed inclines? Sounds like carb trouble since it only does it on incline.... It may not be maintaining enough fuel required in the bowl and when you hit an incline its prolly starving for fuel... check float and fuel pressure.... thats just assuming it only does it on hills and nothing else....
11-01-2009, 07:48 AM
#3
The fuel pump is new as well (I should have mentioned that). The incline where this has happened was so insignificant that you could barely tell it was going uphill.
Idle and any other point this truck seems just fine. It is when you are cruising at 60-65 and heading up a minor incline on the highway.. it is like it knows the speed and is trying to compensate or adjusting something. But, this is a 22R.. there aren't any "brains" (ECU) from what I know..
Idle and any other point this truck seems just fine. It is when you are cruising at 60-65 and heading up a minor incline on the highway.. it is like it knows the speed and is trying to compensate or adjusting something. But, this is a 22R.. there aren't any "brains" (ECU) from what I know..
11-01-2009, 08:35 AM
#6
Registered User
If it only stumbles going UP an incline, but not down, the problem is probably fuel spilling out of the bowl into the intake. You can try lowering the float level. Another problem may be the new pump is a bit high on the pressure - installing a fuel pressure regulator would help in that case.
11-01-2009, 08:38 AM
#7
The P.O. installed the fuel pump. I'll take a look at FSM diagram to see what you are referring to so I can check to see if it is there.. I'm thinking he probably replaced the fuel pump (looks shiny brand new) hoping to fix this issue. Why he didn't do the plugs, wires, dist, etc.. who knows..
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11-01-2009, 08:39 AM
#8
If it only stumbles going UP an incline, but not down, the problem is probably fuel spilling out of the bowl into the intake. You can try lowering the float level. Another problem may be the new pump is a bit high on the pressure - installing a fuel pressure regulator would help in that case.
11-01-2009, 10:56 AM
#10
Will check all of the suggestions.. thanks for them..
I did notice when I put gas in earlier today that it released a lot of pressure from the tank..
I know the cat looks original..
I did notice when I put gas in earlier today that it released a lot of pressure from the tank..
I know the cat looks original..
11-01-2009, 11:30 AM
#12
11-01-2009, 11:44 AM
#13
11-02-2009, 12:12 PM
#14
ran with the cap off... no difference. I'm hoping my new plugs, wires, dist, rotor and air filter fix this thing later this week.
I do need to look at the float window on the carb. How the heck do I adjust the float? The FSM is kind of vague..
I do need to look at the float window on the carb. How the heck do I adjust the float? The FSM is kind of vague..
11-02-2009, 12:56 PM
#15
Registered User
There are tabs that you bend. Autozone has a good write-up on it in one of their Vehicle Repair Guides, but now they require registration to get to it. Here's an old copy from the internet archive, unfortunately without the pics:
http://web.archive.org/web/200806211...rInfoPages.htm
These links have some more info:
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...Number=1019522
If you get a rebuild kit, the NAPAs are by far the best and have the specific parts for your carb - just bring in the part # which should be on an aluminum tag.
http://web.archive.org/web/200806211...rInfoPages.htm
Float and Fuel Level
See Figures 8, 9 and 10
Float level adjustments are unnecessary if the fuel level falls within the lines on the sight glass when the engine is running. The sight glass is located on the side of the carburetor and is literally a window to the float bowl. Removing the air cleaner is usually required for access, although it can be done with an extension or dental mirror.
With the carburetor off the engine, there are two float level adjustments which may be made. One is done with the air horn inverted, so that the float is in a fully raised position; the other is with the air horn in an upright position, so that the float falls to the bottom of its travel.
The float level is measured either with a special carburetor float level gauge, which comes with a rebuilding kit, or with a standard wire gauge.
Fig. 8: The sight glass is located on the side of the carburetor
Turn the air horn upside down and let the float hang down by its own weight.
Using a special float gauge SST 09240-00014 or equivalent, check the clearance between the tip of the float and the flat surface of the air horn. The clearance should be 0.386 in. (9.8mm).
This measurement should be made without the gasket on the air horn.
If the float clearance is not within specifications, adjust it by bending the upper (A) float tab.
Fig. 9: Bend portion (A) of the float to achieve a 0.386 in. (9.8mm) gap
Lift up the float and check the clearance between the air horn and the float bottom. A Vernier caliper works well for this measurement. The clearance should be 48mm (1.89 inches)
If the clearance is not within specifications, adjust it by bending the lower float tab (B).
Fig. 10: Bend portion (B) of the float to set 1.89 in. (48mm) of clearance between the air horn and the float bottom
See Figures 8, 9 and 10
Float level adjustments are unnecessary if the fuel level falls within the lines on the sight glass when the engine is running. The sight glass is located on the side of the carburetor and is literally a window to the float bowl. Removing the air cleaner is usually required for access, although it can be done with an extension or dental mirror.
With the carburetor off the engine, there are two float level adjustments which may be made. One is done with the air horn inverted, so that the float is in a fully raised position; the other is with the air horn in an upright position, so that the float falls to the bottom of its travel.
The float level is measured either with a special carburetor float level gauge, which comes with a rebuilding kit, or with a standard wire gauge.
Fig. 8: The sight glass is located on the side of the carburetor
Turn the air horn upside down and let the float hang down by its own weight.
Using a special float gauge SST 09240-00014 or equivalent, check the clearance between the tip of the float and the flat surface of the air horn. The clearance should be 0.386 in. (9.8mm).
This measurement should be made without the gasket on the air horn.
If the float clearance is not within specifications, adjust it by bending the upper (A) float tab.
Fig. 9: Bend portion (A) of the float to achieve a 0.386 in. (9.8mm) gap
Lift up the float and check the clearance between the air horn and the float bottom. A Vernier caliper works well for this measurement. The clearance should be 48mm (1.89 inches)
If the clearance is not within specifications, adjust it by bending the lower float tab (B).
Fig. 10: Bend portion (B) of the float to set 1.89 in. (48mm) of clearance between the air horn and the float bottom
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...Number=1019522
If you get a rebuild kit, the NAPAs are by far the best and have the specific parts for your carb - just bring in the part # which should be on an aluminum tag.
11-02-2009, 01:02 PM
#16
I'd hate to have to rebuild the carb again since the PO did it earlier this year.. unless, of course, it was done incorrectly or with a crappy rebuild kit. I'll look for that tab on the carb.. I hope it is still there since I've read it could be gone if the carb was rebuilt.
thanks for the help..
thanks for the help..
11-03-2009, 03:21 PM
#19
Registered User
the power valve and power piston add extra fuel when the throttle is wide open .the parts are in float area of the carb.one is in the top part of the carb the other part is directly below it in the bowl.i am not sure if it could cause a problem at a point before full throttle.
