gaines808

I just rebuilt my 22 RE after a leaky radiator petcock led to a burnt up water pump to blown headgasket to warped head, which is the way I bought it. Anyway, I got it all back together and it runs beautifully, only now it has an oil leak that seems to be coming from one of the oil pump housing bolts while running.
I replaced the timing chain and cover during my near complete rebuild and replaced all seals and gaskets. In my repair manual under oil pump installation it says:
"Apply a sealer to the upper bolt and install the five
bolts"
I didn't see that part, so I didn't do it. I don't know if it wanted silicone or anti-sieze.
It seems like this would be where my problem lies, I just wanted to see if anybody else has had the same issue...

Kiroshu

Take the pump and bolts out reseal them with sealer of you choice and it should stop. I've changed some pumps and not had that issue before but eh things happen..... just follow the book if ya got one.

YotaTron88'

I have the same prob. on my 88' The leak is coming from the upper left bolt hole (as looking at the motor). It never leaked untill it pulled the air pump and bracket that mounted there. I'm trying to figure out the "factory" way to seal it.....copper washer, rtv, ???. It your coming from the same hole? Maybe we could figure this out together?

gaines808

No, mine is coming from the upper right. If I remember right from installation, they both pass through the tinming cover to the block (which pass through the oil passage way) I would think that gobs of RTV just might stop it. If I don't have to gather firewood tomorrow, I will ty it out and let you know.

YotaTron88'

cool dude let me know...

Karlton

With regards to the oil pump the top left bolt is the only one requiring a thread sealant. You should use an anaerobic thread sealant which is typical for sealing threads in hydraulics and other applications where the threads need to be sealed from oil pressure.

From the FSM:

(a) Clean the threads of the upper set bolt and timing chain cover bolt hole of any sealer, oil or foreign particles. Remove any oil with kerosene or gasoline.

(b) Apply sealant to 2 or 3 threads of the bolt end.
Sealant: Part No. 08833–00070, THREE BOND 1324 or equivalent
HINT: This adhesive will not harden while exposed to air. It will act as a sealant or binding agent only when applied to threads, etc. and air is cut off.

(c) Torque the five bolts.
Torque:
(A) 25 N–m (250 kgf–cm, 18 ft–Ibf) (This is the top bolt with the anaerobic thread sealant)
(B) 19 N–m (195 kgf–cm, 14 ft–Ibf)
(C) 13 N–m (130 kgf–cm, 9 ft–lbf) (These are the two bottom bolts)
(d) Torque the relief valve plug.
Torque: 37 N–m (375 kgf–cm, 27 ft–Ibf)

I used a Permatex brand anaerobic thread sealant I found at the local auto parts store.

Good luck!

gaines808

Thank you Karlton! That clears up the sealant question for sure. Unfortunately I didn't see your post until after I tore the oild pump off and worked on it. I ended up finding that the seal for the pump to Timing cover was chewed up, my guess is that I did not make certain it wa seated properly. I think this is what was causing my leak. When I re-assembled, I just loaded all my bolt heads with RTV, just to be sure. Maybe that will cause some trouble in the future, but I think I need to pull it off and do it the right way, like your FSM says.
Hopefully your post can help Yotatron88 as well. The upper left bolt (the one that is said to be sealed) does pass through the oilway. If you pulled this bolt and didn't seal it on the way bak in, I would think that it just might let some oil get pushed out.

By the way Karlton, It's funny you should post on my thread, seeing as how when I posted it, I was checking out your Engine Rebuild pics..