21r engine build
#1
20/22r hybrid engine build
im new to this forum but ive been hands deep in toyotas since august and have researched since then about everything toyota. i am currently having issues with my 22r bottom end. i am building it myself but i have had the crank measured at a shop and they said it was standard. anyways when i put the crank in position and tighten all of the bolts down then i cant spin the crank....... im thinking this has to be a bearing issue. after build it should manually spin with a simple turn of the wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt rite? pics but the dont justify the issue
also any help on anything would be great. i put it together 3x now and im getting pretty frustrated.
also any help on anything would be great. i put it together 3x now and im getting pretty frustrated.
Last edited by 82broncoholic; 02-04-2010 at 11:30 AM.
#2
Registered User
only thing i can think of is take ur crank and ur bearings to make sure their the same size, or have them bore it to ur bearings...also are you talking about the connecting rod bearings? or the main bearings? might help out, maybe some 1 els will chime in, plenty of people have rebuilt their own motors here
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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You should be able to spin that by hand. What I usually do is spin it over after each part I torque on. ex. tighten the main caps and spin. tighten one rod and spin. etc... That way you know where the problem is. I'd start by double checking the torque on everything. Probably just a rod that's not torqued evenly.
#4
the main bearings are my main concern. i did go thru the second time and try to spin everything after i torqued it down thats when i found the crank to be the issue. right now i have the motor torn all the way apart and just the crank is installed and it wont spin. so it has to be the problem right. all 10 bolts are torqued to spec... so i guess i need to measure it myself. if i was to get it bored what would that do... take off the crank or off the block and bearing caps???
#7
Registered User
You could plastigage the main bearings to get a better idea of what's going on.
Are your main caps on in the correct locations (1 at the front to 5 in the back) and direction (arrows pointing toward the front)? Probably, but thought I'd ask anyway.
Did the shop also check your block?
Yes. Don't turn a crank on dry bearings. Use assembly lube or at least motor oil.
Are your main caps on in the correct locations (1 at the front to 5 in the back) and direction (arrows pointing toward the front)? Probably, but thought I'd ask anyway.
Did the shop also check your block?
Originally Posted by RustBucket
Do the bearings need oil in them to spin by hand...?
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#8
i used oil between them and still nothing. i just thats what im going to have to do. its clearly stamped standard on the bearings.
#10
Registered User
I read somewhere not to oil/grease behind the bearings only the front as this will throw off bearing clearances/measurements, also I heard that too much moly lube will make an engine hard to turn but I believe is more for v8's and such.
#11
You could plastigage the main bearings to get a better idea of what's going on.
Are your main caps on in the correct locations (1 at the front to 5 in the back) and direction (arrows pointing toward the front)? Probably, but thought I'd ask anyway.
Did the shop also check your block?
Yes. Don't turn a crank on dry bearings. Use assembly lube or at least motor oil.
Are your main caps on in the correct locations (1 at the front to 5 in the back) and direction (arrows pointing toward the front)? Probably, but thought I'd ask anyway.
Did the shop also check your block?
Yes. Don't turn a crank on dry bearings. Use assembly lube or at least motor oil.
#12
#13
Registered User
I've read of others encountering problems using a new standard set of bearings without doing anything to the crank. I'm not sure, but I suspect the factory practice of using different "standard" sizes is at least partly responsible.
#15
yea i have read were it is stamped and i even called toyota and he sais if i gave him the number on the block he would send me the main bearing kit for like 40 bucks a bearing. so i was just going to look for other options before doing that.
and yes when i loosen up the main bearing caps after they have been torqued down i can barely spin the motor over.. when i get off work im going to go home and check the thrush washers and see if they are getting in the way. i read were some ones had fallen off track when he put the crank in and the motor was tight to turn.. i guess its worth a look see
and yes when i loosen up the main bearing caps after they have been torqued down i can barely spin the motor over.. when i get off work im going to go home and check the thrush washers and see if they are getting in the way. i read were some ones had fallen off track when he put the crank in and the motor was tight to turn.. i guess its worth a look see
#16
Registered User
yea i have read were it is stamped and i even called toyota and he sais if i gave him the number on the block he would send me the main bearing kit for like 40 bucks a bearing. so i was just going to look for other options before doing that.
and yes when i loosen up the main bearing caps after they have been torqued down i can barely spin the motor over.. when i get off work im going to go home and check the thrush washers and see if they are getting in the way. i read were some ones had fallen off track when he put the crank in and the motor was tight to turn.. i guess its worth a look see
and yes when i loosen up the main bearing caps after they have been torqued down i can barely spin the motor over.. when i get off work im going to go home and check the thrush washers and see if they are getting in the way. i read were some ones had fallen off track when he put the crank in and the motor was tight to turn.. i guess its worth a look see
#17
Registered User
Suggested retail for each bearing is $23.53. They are $16.97 at 1sttoyotaparts, so about $95 for 5 including shipping. The part numbers seem to be (double check before ordering):
11701-35030-03 (mark "3")
11701-35030-04 (mark "4")
11701-35030-05 (mark "5")
It may be cheaper to have the crank turned .010" and use reasonably priced bearings. A set of King main bearings is $25 at partsdinosaur. Engnbldr is probably in the same ballpark.
Get a package of green plastigage. Most parts stores should have it. A couple bucks and a little time will show which bearings are out of whack.
Last edited by flyingbrass; 02-05-2010 at 10:06 AM.
#18
Registered User
I am going to assume this block is an 81-84? ENGNBLDR's full bearing set, (mains, rods, thrusts) Are $60 plus maybe less than $10 in shipping. $54 for full set for 85-95. They use King Bearings I believe.
TOYOTAPERFORMANCE.COM main bearing set is $60, $25 thrusts, $30 rods. $115 full set of Clevite 77's. Which I doubt OEM bearings are better than them.
I think a going rate for a crank turn would be around $100-$150. At least around here.
TOYOTAPERFORMANCE.COM main bearing set is $60, $25 thrusts, $30 rods. $115 full set of Clevite 77's. Which I doubt OEM bearings are better than them.
I think a going rate for a crank turn would be around $100-$150. At least around here.
#20
#82broncoholic
Did U ever solved the crank & bearing issue way back them
im new to this forum but ive been hands deep in toyotas since august and have researched since then about everything toyota. i am currently having issues with my 22r bottom end. i am building it myself but i have had the crank measured at a shop and they said it was standard. anyways when i put the crank in position and tighten all of the bolts down then i cant spin the crank....... im thinking this has to be a bearing issue. after build it should manually spin with a simple turn of the wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt rite? pics but the dont justify the issue
Attachment 197881
also any help on anything would be great. i put it together 3x now and im getting pretty frustrated.