nekchris

1993 2WD pickup camper 3.0L. I am on my second new replacement gas tank within 8 months. Both seeped gas at the weld points (first one at one point, second one at two points). I don't want to just keep replacing tanks every couple months even if they are under warrantee I still have to pay for labor. Anyone with similar problems? Any ideas on a solution?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You might want to say just what brand tank??

Who are you buying the tanks from the people who are installing them??

On your third tank I would think another brand?? or maybe have one custom built.

Nice about warranty not paying the labor just think if it was the engine.

nekchris

I have yet to get the distributor to tell me what brand my first two were. I have a friend with the same truck (and same identical problem) and she is on her third tank and they were all Spectra. My tanks have come from ABC Radiator out of Tucson (of course they are just a distributor).

scope103

Any chance there's a mounting issue? Is the tank shaking where it shouldn't, overloading that point of the tank?

nekchris

Both times it was mounted by two different highly qualified service mechanics. Maybe if I decide to get another one I should add some mounting straps across the bottom? But geez, the original one lasted 22 years! Here is a photo of the two weld leak points.

note the two circles at about 2:00 and 8:00 so to speak

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That is a manufacturing defect

Poor spot welds where a baffle is welded

That has nothing to do with the mounting

If your getting another one I would inspect it real close .

Cheap China built tanks

The quality control person is most likely to get shot !!

As long as this problem is not fixed every one will start to leak in a short period of time

millball

Warning, Warning, WARNING!!!

Danger, Danger, DANGER!!!

Disclaimer. disclaimer, DISCLAIMER!!!!!

Any fool who tries to weld, or braze fuel tanks does so entirely at their own risk, my experience notwithstanding!!!

Just because I can do it does'nt mean that you might not be killed or maimed if you attempt such a repair.

NOT MY FAULT!!!!!

Anyway........


I'd just drop it, drain it, run exhaust from a running truck thru it for 15 minutes, or so, and braze the holes while the exhaust purge is still running.

If you wanna make sure that the internal baffle is secured, drill a 1/8 inch hole thru the factory spot weld, so that some braze may flow thru to the inside before you finally close the hole with more filler.

I have brazed dozens of tanks using engine exhaust purge, and I haven't blown one up yet.

Guess the devil does'nt want me.

nekchris

Wyoming9: IF I get another one, what should I look for. I am not even close to being a mechanic (just a 70 yr old lady), but it appears that I need to solve this myself as the professionals I have paid lots of money to just slap on whatever they recieve from the parts guy. The tank you are looking at was brand new just about 6 weeks ago.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It is a sad fact that the clueless seem to get taken advantage of .

Since someone else is installing these tanks it really should be on them to check things.

Once the tank is installed not much you can really do.

I could see paying the labor to have the first failed tank swapped .

Since it seems you used two places your kind of already in so far.

Is this a special tank because of the camper ?

It might be more expensive but if one could be bought from Toyota it might end your problems.

Between you and this other person that is quite a few failed tanks how many more out there??

nekchris

I have cross posted to the other Toyota MH forums that I know about, but it is pretty unusual to have to replace one of the original tanks. Nothing special about it being a camper.....standard 17 gal 1988-1994 Toyota 1 ton Pickup Truck. This is my third Toyota camper in 10 years (I live in it full time, travel a lot, and love many things about it). I am actually considering a salvage tank in good condition of course seeing how the original ones seem to last forever. My original one sat for 6 years before I bought it and thus was incredible rusty on the interior. I mean thick! In hindsight I should of done whatever to have it cleaned. Oh well. As I see it I have 4 choices: go with another new tank, get and clean a salvage, coat the one I have with a sealant or have a metal plate welded on the bottom. Just gathering as much information and advise as I can before deciding. Have even considered buying a different RV!!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

As long as you can not punch a hole in the top of the old factory tank where mud as rotted the top most likely the tank is not rusted. I have cleaned many tanks that had 1/4 inch build up in the bottom of the tank that does look like rust. When I got the tank cleaned, there was no pitting at all in the tank at all and looked like new when done.

I use Red-Kote to seal my tanks. I use white vinegar to clean the tank but it is a slow process. It can take a week or so to clean the tank. I have seen other ways of cleaning the tank but I do projects so don't get in any hurry about it. You can find other ways to clean them on Youtube and such.

Since you are working on the fuel tank, I would check the in tank pump, filter, and fuel lines. They tend to clog. On the lines I use a gear oil bottle cap that acts as a funnel and pour Marvel Mystery Oil in the line and let it soak. Then after a few days I try to use low pressure air and clear the clog out.

A friend of mine swears by a new product called Rustxxx, I cant remember the name but it is Rust something and comes in a gray bottle. I haven't tried it. When you get the lines cleared and flush it you will see rusty looking gunk come out of the lines.

nekchris

NOW my supplier (ABC Radiator) says that my first tank was a Silla and my second tank was a Liland (so what is true I don't know as they originally said they were both Spectra) and they got them from the 1-800-Radiator place. They are giving me a $538 reimbursement to make me go away and never come back. Covers the cost to me of the original tank plus labor on both tanks. I talked to Dorman (Rock Auto gives their tank a lifetime waranty) and they said it is made in Taiwan and there return rate is very low, although I asked for a specific number and didn't get it. I am going to try my mechanic's idea.....clean the bottom real good, put Marine Tex epoxy on the two spots that are seeping PLUS covering the bottom of the tank with an aluminum plate sealed with JB Weld. Whatever you do NEVER ditch an old tank! I would of been much better off doing whatever it took to clean up my old one even tho it was really an awful rusty mess inside. They don't make them like they used to!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I hope it all works out !!

Glad to see you got your money back as well.

Best of Luck.

nekchris

Follow up....the JB Weld patch job failed quickly. Had to drop and clean the tank and have a metal patch soldered on the bottom. 2 days now and so far it is holding, but for how long??? Also I found out Dorman does not make a tank for the 2WD so that option is out. My next option (if need be) is a used tank or a tank from Spectra (3 yr warranty but my friend had same failure in 2 of his, although third one is holding).

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If the NEK stands for Northeast Kansas, there is a salvage yard in Springfield Missouri that would have a used one.