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1st Gen 4runner Rear Flap Window

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Old 02-25-2017, 04:45 PM
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1st Gen 4runner Rear Flap Window

I have an '87 4runner. Although I love the vehicle as a whole, one thing that I hate with a passion is the rear window. There are about 10 different electrical components that can fail leaving you unable to raise or lower the rear window. Why Toyota would design a power window into a vehicle that otherwise doesn't have power windows is beyond me...especially considering the 1st gen 4runner is little more than a Toyota truck with a backseat and factory camper shell.

Currently, my rear window is stuck in the up position. Before I crawl back there to jump it down, I want a plan to replace it once and for all. I'd like to have a flap style window like a camper shell. As I see it, I have two options.

1) Pull the rear window out, build a frame around it, and attach it to the back of the vehicle with hinges. I'd also need to build some brackets for gas springs, design a latching system, and figure out weather stripping.

2) Find a rear window for a Toyota truck camper shell and adapt that to my situation.

Has anyone tried either of these ideas? Has anyone also gotten fed up with the rear window and tried some other alternative? Option 2 seems like it'd be the easiest and most effective way to do the job.
Old 02-25-2017, 05:19 PM
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I've seen guys on the internet that have retrofitted the back window with a crank on the outside of the tailgate. It kinda looked like a lug nut. Sure beats the heck out of exhaust fumes coming in the back of your rig.
Old 02-25-2017, 05:27 PM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/rear-window-electronic-manual-190642/
Old 02-25-2017, 05:53 PM
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I like the idea of using the existing window and surrounding structure. That's definitely easier than trying to retrofit something.

I'll keep this in mind, but I still think I'd prefer a flap window. Then I can open it from both sides.
Old 02-25-2017, 05:54 PM
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or just.......fix it? i mean, it worked for almost 30 years. why not refurb it and not have to worry about it again.
Old 02-25-2017, 06:18 PM
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I could refurb it, and it'd probably work for a long time. What makes me reluctant is the experiences I've already had.

It's failed on an evening when I was planning to camp in the back, and it was snowing. A bit of creative jiggling saved me having to jerry rig a tarp over the back, but that was a confidence killer. Also I'm currently in a situation where if I had a flat, I doubt I could get my 35" spare out through the front. I'd have to either jump down the window or break it to change my tire.
Old 02-25-2017, 06:34 PM
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Plenty of options for external access. For example.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Chrome-Tailga...e/132104516934
Old 02-26-2017, 07:35 PM
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Since you're going to have to get the window down regardless of repair or replacing, if you haven't seen this: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...leshootingTips

You can bypass all of the safety features the window circuit incorporates and just have it run through a simple SPDT relay/switch. Your window will work much better after this(as long as your motor is strong) and as long as you don't try to do silly things, is perfectly safe.

The power rear window is kind of a signature feature of the 4runner, in all generations, but it can certainly be frustrating in older ones. I say fix it if you can.
Old 02-26-2017, 07:36 PM
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I also like the flap window

Originally Posted by jonzey23
... There are about 10 different electrical components that can fail leaving you unable to raise or lower the rear window...
And too freaking slow to open or close, especially in a downpour - yes, it does rain in So Cal - LOL!
I prefer a flap window, too. Adapting an existing camper window would be clean. Just need to install a good weather stripping (should be easy) for proper seal Maybe there's something available from camper shell makers or suppliers. Please keep us posted.
Old 02-26-2017, 11:17 PM
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Red face

I don`t know once I fix the windows they give me no issues .

If you don`t like the electric window sell the 4Runner buy a Pick up put a cap on.

Seems much easier then retro fitting a window and getting it to seal so the exhaust fumes are not sucked in.
Old 02-27-2017, 06:15 AM
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I by pass all of the safeties. Just requires a ground wire. As long as your switch and relay box is good, no more problems. I have it listed in my 88 runner build if you want to look at it.
Old 02-27-2017, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jonzey23
.... Before I crawl back there to jump it down,
Do a few simple test without taking things apart. Just need to access the control relay. How Rear Window Control Works here.
Old 02-28-2017, 10:57 PM
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Every window motor I've replaced in 20+ y/o vehicles runs much faster just from that replacement alone w/ no other changes. New motor windings, fresh lube, etc.

Do the direct wiring mod w/ a new motor, silicone grease the window channels, and lithium grease your regulator (or buy a new one) and you'll be GTG.

Flap windows seal much less against weather, can't really drive with them open, are only either open/close with no in-between, have to manually open them, etc. Don't recommend for a climate controlled and upholstered space.

Last edited by RSR; 02-28-2017 at 10:59 PM.
Old 02-28-2017, 11:56 PM
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Red face

For what ever reason if these back windows are not closed they just draw in the exhaust fumes.

I don`t care for burning eyes and throat

To get a flap type window fabricated and installed to seal perfect will cost way more then replacing all the window parts with new ..

Then again if you can design and manufacture a good window for cheap ( under a $1000.00) it might be a money maker for you.
Old 03-01-2017, 09:29 AM
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My main gripe with the roll-up window is it's slower than a flap window. IIRC, the UN even specifies that tailgate be "door" type like that on the Isuzu Troopers.
I have no trouble keeping the roll-up window working, but in my book "the less reliance on technology or electricity the better."
Cost is of course a consideration, but it should not be too difficult to find proper hinge, materials (Polycarbonate is my choice), weather-stripping/seal... Need to come up with latch/lock mechanism.
Old 03-01-2017, 07:30 PM
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I have had issues with my windows as well I do enjoy when they work well and have got them only working in one direction as well but when it happened I realized my switch was burning out due to a small fuse but now I have everything working along with a rear wiper on the window and all my switches work. I highly suggest it and my window rolls down from the out side too
Old 03-02-2017, 02:41 AM
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I personally like the roll up window, but to each his own. Mines never let me down

if I absolutely couldn't live with it, I would consider replacing the tailgate with a pickup tailgate, getting a pickup camper shell, and modifying the shell where it interfaces with the back wall of the cab

My other option would be take a 4Runner top and a pickup top, and try to do a mashup

I can't think of a way to get anything done with the original glass that seems like a reasonable amount of fabrication, a fiberglass mashup of 2 tops seems way more reasonable

considered a soft top?
Old 03-20-2017, 06:41 AM
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in my case, 1988 4Runner, a small nylon bushing has broken. It rides in a track as part of the regulator assembly. The regulator works fine, the electrical system is fine, just this dang little round roller is broken. Evidently it was never sold as a stand alone part.
According to the local Toyota Parts dept. there is not a new factory regulator assembly in America. The part number for that item fits from 3/1984 to 3/1989. Part number is 69801-89111. I can't seem to find one on the U-pull-it market either.
Any ideas on how to get a regulator or fix this one?
Old 03-20-2017, 06:58 AM
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Do you know if the door window regulators have the same rollers? Post the size of the one you need with a pic and i will check my window reg since i have a door panel off
Old 03-20-2017, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by flg8r22
Do you know if the door window regulators have the same rollers? Post the size of the one you need with a pic and i will check my window reg since i have a door panel off
I don't have a picture, but the local parts guru tells me that the regulator, including the rollers, are the same 84 through 89. I'd settle for a couple of rollers, but am willing to just buy the entire assembly if that's what it takes.

Edited to say that I found a complete, used assembly on line for $220 delivered. Hope this solves the problem.

Last edited by Knocky; 03-20-2017 at 08:20 AM.



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