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Ive had this truck for about 15 years, lol and never worried about the windows and door locks not working. I searched the web yesterday and when I discovered my fuse box, mine doesnt look like the drawings. According to the drawings I am missing the 30 amp power fuse/relay. Or am I? My driver side windows and door locks do not work. But, on the passenger side you can lock the truck from that button. I did find the blue/white wire had been cut at sometime going into the fuse box and splice back together. Im thinking they didnt do it right and thats why the driver side door lock is not working. Can yall look at my photo and see if I am in fact missing a fuse. Thanks in advance.

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Update, I found a generic power relay at advance auto, plugged it in where the blue is above, and nothing. Still in the same boat, windows wont move. I am going to try and resplice the the door locks blue/white wire and see if that does anything......about to yank it all out and buy manual parts and convert to a manual windows.

scope103

Which drawing would that be? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2powersou.pdf (this drawing if for a '93)

You have an electrical problem, you need to trace your wiring with a multimeter. Replacing parts (or splices) at random is never a good idea, but you're just moving backwards until you isolate where your problem is.

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I was using the first drawing. In the drawing where the #14 is, I didnt have one. So I put one in. Didnt help. The only splice I want to do, is where someone else did a bad job of splicing the blue/white wire which is suppose to be the driver side door locks. I have 3 used door relays that I found in the glove box when I bought the truck. I have tried them all, and no luck. I guess some time tomorrow, I will try using my ohm meter on the switches. Any other ideas? Thanks!

scope103

I can't tell from your photo, but it looks like you have the 30A fuse, and the place you plugged in the relay is just a blank (no connection).

The power to the door locks and window is through R10 on a W-R wire, probably the one circled.

The connection on R10 where your spliced wire seems to go is, so far as I can tell, to the starter relay. Probably once an immobilizer, but I can't explain why it's spliced to a different colored wire.

Yes, tracing through the door switches is where I would start; they are subject to being pounded on, and they are relatively easy to get to. If voltage is going through the switches, my next stop would be to take the door apart. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-work-254772/

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Thanks, I will try and get a better photo tomorrow. Guess I will also take the relay back to Advance Auto, lol. Thanks for all the help.

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Ok, little update, since I am illiterate when it comes to electrical stuff. I mean if I plug in a lamp to a wall, Im topping cotton.....I took my meter and tried checking all the power slots according to the fsm I downloaded. They seem to have power. I was getting right at 12 volts. So then I disconnected my switches on the door. (the power mirror button has always worked) I hooked up a wire straight from the positive and negative side of the battery, to the window button in slots 3 and 4, and wham my driver side window went down, I reversed the lead and it went up. Now does this tell me my switch is bad, or do I have a bad relay some where? Thanks for all the help, guess after I get this tackled I will move on to my temp gauge going straight to the middle when I turn the key on, thats been going on for about a month.....lol

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I forgot to mention I also noticed the window lock button, does not work on the switch. You can push it down and it will neither lock down or click. It just comes right back up. Could this be an issue as well?

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Ok today I was able to get the passenger window up and down by hooking straight to the battery, but, how do I hook up to the wiring harness in the driver door, and make the passenger window go up and down. Cant figure it out. Thanks

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Got a replacement door control in the mail today, still no dice. Waiting on the replacement switches. Seeing as how I can raise and lower the driver window with power going into the wiring harness in the door, I have a feeling my switches are bad. I tore it apart and fair warning dont turn it upside down, springs fall out, lol. My window lock button didnt work, and there was some soot around some of the connections. But I still havent figured out where to put the wires from the battery to into the harness in the drivers door to make the passenger window go up and down. Though putting direct voltage to the passenger wiring harness, the passenger window goes down. Funny thing, I can lock and unlock the doors from the passenger door, locks both. But, nothing happens on the door locks from the driver door..

Sno1957

I would bet my money on the switches!

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Update:
Replaced the door control relay off ebay-nothing
Replaced driver door master switches-Nothing
Checked all fuses-Nothing.
The only thing I can think of is a short some where. I checked the wires going through the door, and they all seem fine.

What does work:
Passenger side can lock/unlock doors
Driver side can operate both power mirrors

I have voltage to the driver side switch and harness. I can make the driver side window go down from hooking up wires directly to the wire harness in the door.
I can make the passenger window go down from power directly to the passenger wire harness.

IS it possible to wire the power windows and door locks and by pass all the door relays? Besides being able to roll the window down without the key in, are there any drawbacks to doing this?

Thanks for all the help.