BiohazardHands

Hey everyone, I just bought a 1995 Toyota 4Runner. There a few things on it that I got to fix up. I had my buddy take a look at it who is a mechanic and he told me that the Front Drive shafts were busted. I've never really heard of that, then I had my other buddy who knows a lot about vehicles take a look and he told me that it was just the CV boots. I'm wondering what exactly it is then, I hear no clunking noises or any loud noises when I am driving. Could it be the CV joints themselves, or the U joints? How do I test to see what the issue is? Thanks for any help.

justin_4runner

when u turn hard in 4wd do u get a popping sound? if so then replace the whole shaft if not get just the boots and re pack with grease and replace the boots... just as easy to replace the whole thing tho.

Inu

The CV axles have rubber boots that keep dirt/water out and grease in. i usually just grab hold and yank to see if it clunks, if the boot is torn but the axle isnt making any noise you can get a boot repair kit and re grease them.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/bf100434.htm
SYMPTOMS OF CV JOINT FAILURE
Bad boots are not the only thing you need to look for. You also need to listen for noise or complaints that might indicate a CV joint problem. These include:

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Popping or clicking noises when turning. This almost always indicates a worn or damaged outer CV joint. To verify this condition, place the vehicle in reverse, crank the steering wheel to one side and drive the vehicle backwards in a circle (check the rearview mirror first!). If the noise gets louder, it confirms the diagnosis and the need for a new CV joint or replacement shaft assembly.

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A "clunk" when accelerating, decelerating or when putting the transaxle into drive. The noise comes from excessive play in the inner joint on FWD applications, either inner or outer joints in a RWD independent suspension, or from the driveshaft CV joints or U-joint in a RWD or AWD powertrain. The same kind of noise can also be produced by excessive backlash in differential gears. To verify the condition, back the vehicle up, alternately accelerating and decelerating while in reverse. If the clunk or shudder is more pronounced, it confirms a bad inner joint.

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A humming or growling noise. Sometimes due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.

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A shudder or vibration when accelerating. May be caused by play in the inboard or outboard joints, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. Similar vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts, or by bad motor mounts on FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines.

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A vibration that increases with speed. This symptom is rarely caused by a failing CV joint. An out-of-balance tire or wheel, an out-of-round tire or wheel, or a bent rim are the more likely causes.

EDIT: When mine were torn i just replaced both cv axle, they were 70 each for masterpro brand(i know i know but they were cheap) from orielly auto

Wrenchinjoe

x2 on replacing the axle.

You can put new boots and fresh grease on your old axle, I think boot kits cost about $25-$30. The issue there is the extra labor involved in breaking down the axle, cleaning the old joint, and reassembly. Lots of us don't have parts washers or air compressors, so cleaning those old joints with a can of brake cleaner (or 2) kinda sucks.

If you buy a remanufactured axle, it comes ready to bolt on with a lifetime warranty, and remanufactured axles are typically OEM. (New axles from the parts stores are often made in China and do not hold up as well.) Cardone remanufactured axles here in Knoxville were priced between $50-$70, not that much more than the boot kits, and you save yourself some labor.

Removing the old axles and reinstalling the new ones is still a job. The inner flange bolts are really tight, and it is hard to wiggle the old axles out between the axle stubs and hubs. There are some good write ups on that, search through a few threads. One mistake people make is they jack up the front and try to remove the axle with the suspension hanging. The axles will come out (barely) with the suspension compressed from the weight of the vehicle. Once you break the inner flange bolts loose, put her back down and do the job with the wheels on the ground.

Good luck.