LuckeeTN

Hi guys. I'm new to the forum. Actually, I'm new to 4runners in general, but I just bought a 1994 v6 3.0L 2WD and I'm starting to believe the guy who sold it to me was either a liar or a complete idiot. So now I'm afraid there may be a few problems that I was not anticipating. I'm low on funds, so I'm trying to educate myself as much as possible about the vehicle (which I immediately fell in love with, but am totally clueless about) so that I can work on it myself when feasible. I just need a little help for where to start.

1. The first problem I noticed seems to be a problem with the power steering (?). The steering wheel is starting to jump a bit, especially when first pulling out after starting the car. What's the most likely culprit? Power steering pump? Tie End Rods?

2. Secondly, and even more concerning, the check engine light came on yesterday. No clue why. All gauges were holding steady and normal, with the exception of the oil pressure, which seems to consistently hang out on the low side (just shy of (or right on top of) the low end "normal" mark). I know there is oil in it. I just changed it and have been checking it religiously. I also replaced the air filter, and checked/topped-off the coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and every other fluid I can think of.

I JUST bought it, so I haven't even had a chance to get a feel for it and what's normal for it, so I have no way to gauge what may be abnormal symptoms for the truck, such as: a) it's loud as balls. b) it has significantly less power/pick-up than I would have expected. I know it's only a v6 on a heavy vehicle, but it's almost impossible to gain speed when climbing even a moderate hill.

I just need to know where to start looking for answers, since taking it to a mechanic right now is out of my budget. I know this is a wordy thread, but I am really hoping I can pinpoint the issue and have some fun enjoying my new 4Runner. Any advice, suggestions, or kicks in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
-Laura

ZARTT

1.) The power steering pump belt could need tightening, or be glazed, or be stretched beyond adjustment, or something relatively simple to address. The steering wheel jumping is more than likely caused by the pump stalling when a load is put on it that the belt can't keep up with.
2.) Toyota 3.0 liter engines run on the low side of the oil pressure gauge. As long as the indicator rises to mid normal, or near mid normal at road speed, you should be good to go. The gauge is nothing more than an indicator that the engine is running. It is pretty inaccurate. If it were a light instead of a gauge, the light would be out and you wouldn't think twice about it.
3.) The check engine light indicates that a malfunction code has been stored in the ECM,
(computer). There is a way you can extract that code from the computer, and get pointed in the right direction for a resolution. Do a search on this forum using OBD-II, or computer codes, or CEL, or anything that you may think will work for you. There is a wealth of information here, and you will find instructions on how to extract that code.

Welcome to the world of Toyotaheads.
Good Luck
Art.

TNRabbit

Read the FAQs first. Otherwise, I agree with the above. WELCOME!

LuckeeTN

Thanks. I really appreciate the input. I Forgot to mention there is a lift on the 4Runner. I don't actually know anything else about the lift though. It was added two owners ago, and the guy I bought it from claimed he didn't know much about it. 31x10.50 R15 tires on it. Art, the oil pressure pretty much stays at the mark between low and normal, except when I first start the car, when it's more centered in the normal range. Once it gets warmed up though, it stays steady on the low mark, then drops significantly lower when idling. I bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge, so at least I'll have a more accurate reading. Hopefully I can get that and the power steering issue under control this weekend. Also, found the info on running the codes for the check engine light, so thanks for the tip. I'm kind of nervous to find out what comes up. Anyway, it's gonna be a lot of fun getting to know my 4Runner. Thanks for the help, guys.

BillandJenn91

our 1991 22re is doing the same thing - removed the oil cap while motor running and oil was clearly visable (splashing out!) took it to the shop for unrelated problems and was told there was nothing wring with the oil pressure... like zartt says - its pretty inaccurate

benchernif

Welcome to be the resource/forums for your truck ever, LuckeeTN!

First thing you need to do is find out what your check engine light is warning you of. It's fairly easy to read the engine code. Go to this service manual page (page 8, Trouble Codes), and figure out what code your engine is yelling at you (you need to learn how to jump your system and get into diagnosis mode, it's easy, all you need is a paperclip):

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/diagnosi.pdf

If you have a loss of power, which these V6 3VZE engines are known for, your most likely culprits are timing issues, code 52 (˟˟˟˟˟˟ that code, seriously - it's usually a knock sensor issue), or even simply a bad oxygen sensor.

Low oil pressure is normal on these trucks at idle. When I driving down the streets I'm usually between 1/4 - 1/2 pressure. At idle I'm at 1/8 or 1/10. Really low at idle. Don't worry about that.

I'd love to hear what code your pulling! We're here to help!

Ben

LuckeeTN

Thanks for the help with the check engine light! That paper clip trick was gonna cost me $80 at to have someone else do. Ridiculous. So I'm getting error code 71 - EGR System Malfunction. I'm gonna go through the inspection instructions in the FSM, and I'll post when I find the culprit. Still haven't had a chance to address the power steering issue... Now that I know my engine isn't about to die, the power steering has moved up the priority list.

benchernif

Code 71 can be such a load of issues: bad EGR valve, bad temp sensor (on the EGR), clogged vacuum hoses. Your better off just ripping the entire EGR valve out and plugging the hoses/exhaust ports. I did it about a year ago and achieved more power, better engine performance.

Basically code 71 could be a slew of issues, and up to $500 worth of repair - and a lot of time consumed.

Anyway, just one option:

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/dmb/egrremoval.html

Ben

LuckeeTN

Well, I have to pass emissions tests to get it registered in my name. Can't get tags/title transferred over w/ any kind of check engine light or error code, so I can't remove the EGR valve. I'm hoping a good cleaning will do the trick. Being new to working on my own car, I'm not sure how labor intensive removing the whole thing and cleaning it all out with be. I ordered a Haynes manual, so I'm hoping that will help locate and identify everything I need to remove to do this. I'm searching the forum for other threads regarding this issue, but any tips or suggestions would be awesome.

ZARTT

The EGR system on your 3.0 motor injects a measured amount of spent exhaust gas into the new air/fuel stream while the motor is running.
This will reduce the temperature of the burning fuel charge, which in turn reduces the amount of Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX) generated in the combustion process. If NOX output is part of the inspection in your state, then "ripping it out" is bad advice.
The EGR system on the 3.0 motor is fairly simple, there is a vacuum controlled valve that ports the exhaust gasses into the intake manifold via a curved pipe. There are a couple of hoses connected to it that provide the vacuum to operate it.
There is a sensor going into the side of it that measures the heat of the gasses to see if they are present, and the whole thing is mounted on the front of the engine on the passenger side just above the exhaust manifold.
Basically two major things will cause a code 71.
1.) A bad sensor not detecting the heat of the gasses.
2.) Bad valve, or control of the valve not allowing the gasses to get to the sensor.

No. 1 is easy to check, but kind of spendy. A replacement sensor isn't cheap. Maybe get one from a wrecking yard.
No. 2 might be something as simple as a cracked or mis-plugged vacuum hose, that keeps the valve from actuating, or the valve itself is bad.
Study the emissions label under the hood for the correct routing of the vacuum hoses that control the valve.
Just remember the big picture. A code 71 is caused by either a cold EGR sensor, or an EGR sensor that thinks it is cold.
Cleaning things most likely will not solve your problem.
Good Luck
Art.

nathanmyers

wow... my power steering had the same problem and I couldn't figure out what was going on. now I feel stupid. My belt just had some oil on it from the rebuild so I didn't notice anything because it was tight.