jj1994toyind

I am back, with questions.
In the next week or so I plan on working at replacing my IFS front Diff on my 1994 Toyota 4x4 extra cab truck and installing the Aisin hubs and then at some point re-building the power steering pump.
I have had some more questions that I need answers to.
1) Parts? The FSM mentions non reusable parts. The diagram’s shows the part but does not give a part number. My local car part shops AutoZone, Advance and O’Reilly’s don’t carry these. Example snap ring’s, O-rings, gaskets and oil seals. I have searched for the ideal website that has a exploded diagram with clickable parts to order from..there is no such animal that I can find? Am I stuck with going to a toyota dealer to order these parts?
2) What do you think on replacing the CV axels since I am putting in the new used front diff? My outer passenger side CV boot is ripped and needs replaced and what I have read is to replace entire axel to justify the labor. New CV axels’ are anywhere from $57.00 to $70.00 a side. The CV boot kit is $20.00. but I still have to pull the axel to replace the boot.
3) Is there any other things I should consider replacing while I have the front end torn apart?
4) Also are you familiar with “defeating the ADD system” as this tech bulletin mentions. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
He mentions using a hose clamp on the fork thingy but does not show how? I understand most of it except the hose clamp part?
5) SST Special Service tools..Can I rent most of these from AutoZone or other car part store? What would you use to remove and re-install the oil seals in the front diff if you didn’t have the SST puller and seal press? Are there any other SST I might need to rent or make? I got the E-14 Torx socket.
6) I have read a lot on re-building the power steering pump, I figure what the hell I will give it a try. Do you got any tips tricks or don’t do’s for this? I have read on here it is easy to extreamly hard to re-build using a re-build kit. I also have read the belt pully is very hard to come off and also that it does not need to be removed, to remove the pump?

Any help would be great..
I will keep you posted once I get started, probably be towards the end of this week.

Thanks

jener8tionx

I'm going to chime in on #2. I got one of those replacement axles from Autozone and was ready to swap it until I saw the difference between OEM and the Autozone part. OEM was at least twice as heavy and beafy. Also the CV boot kit was only about $40.00 at the time. Most of the labor is getting the axle off, not changing the boot.

DRM

1. pull part, take to dealer, order replacement. That is about the best method I have found.
2. If the boot it torn, I would replace the boot (NOT a split boot kit!!!) if the rest of the assembly looks to be in good condition. Or find a used OEM CV assembly for cheap and drop that in, replacing the boot on yours and now you have a spare.
3. IMHO - only what needs to be replaced. I am not a big fan of dumping money into replacing parts that are working just fine and still have service life left in them.
4. No Clue.
5. I've torn dozens of IFS front ends apart, and never used any SST's that I recall. I probably used some pliers and a screwdriver to remove seals and a large socket to drive them back in.
6. No Clue.

Good luck.

jener8tionx

I just wanted to post to agree with DRM on #2. I didn't mention that the boot kit should be the dealer part. It comes with both boots and the correct grease for each boot.

Innocent Fool

Point #4) Why do you want to defeat your ADD system?
- If it's working just install the manual hubs.
- If it's not working why not fix it? Not that hard and lot of write ups on the forum

Gamefreakgc

I'll only comment to what I know well...

1. All non-reusable parts should be new when you put it back together. Do not re-use seals and gaskets (that's the majority of non-reusable parts) unless you want leaks. Like DRM said, you'll want to go to a dealer. They have all sorts of fancy diagrams so if you're not able to pull the part before going, you can look it up on their diagram and they can order it. Most orders come in next day at my dealer.

5. Yes and no. Autozone only has universal tools so unless it's common, they won't have it. In most cases for these SST's that I've encountered you can't rent them. Don't bother trying to buy them unless you can't do the job with the tools you already have. Search is your friend here... try our forums or Google.

6. Don't fix what isn't broke is my opinion. But it's your truck so do what you want!

jj1994toyind

Thanks for all the replys..

For what ever reason I was thinking I had to defeat the ADD system to use manual hubs...my bad, after more reading I understand it better. My ADD System works fine, I will install manual hubs and leave ADD system alone.

I will wait and tear front end apart then take needed parts to toyota and get replacement seals and gaskets. I was just wanting to get ahead and get parts first.

Might just do the CV Axel boot kit and save some money and get greasy..ha ha.. Wonder why one boot uses black grease and the other uses brown grease. Maybe to isolate a leaky boot down the road?

I will do more research on the power steering pump..I did find more write ups on that.

Thanks again.

Resto-noob

iTrader: (3)

I have a roll of gasket paper I picked up at my local non chain parts store. That, some punches and an exacto knife have saved me many a trip to the dealer and a fair amount of $$.

I made hub gaskets just last week in the time it would have taken to find them online.

If you're bent on rebuilding a power steering pump, I'd pick one up cheap from a guy here and do it. That way you aren't disabling your truck while waiting for a part or tool you can't find.

scope103

Hmmm. At my Autozone, a rebuilt half-shaft is $63. A boot kit is $30 -- but to replace the outer boot (the one that is much more likely to split) you have to also remove/replace the inner boot, so you need two boot kits.

Replacing the boots is a messy, thankless job. You'll be wearing grease up to your elbows. Plus, this will be the first time you do it. It's not rocket science, but there's something to be said for letting someone else do it, someone who does it every day. Also, you need a special tool to install the clamp rings (I've been able to borrow the correct tool for free from Autozone the three times I've done it. You have to get the correct tool -- there are at least two popular styles of clamp.)

So you can save $3 by spending an hour or so on a really messy job. Your choice. I'd never do it again.

As others have said, do NOT waste time with a "speedi-boot" or other shortcuts. DO get it fixed soon; you're rapidly replacing the grease with grinding compound (sand, dirt) which will make the axle non-rebuildable in a hurry.

Non-reusable parts requires, alas, some experience. The dealer isn't going to sell you o-rings (well, they might); you get them out of a $10 kit that will last you for years. On the other hand, critical parts like the crush washers on fuel lines ONLY come from the dealer (they're about a buck). As Gamefreakgc says, you CAN reuse seals and gaskets, but only if you want leaks.

RSR

toyodiy.com is great for entering your VIN and having it tell you the exact parts you need. I use the part # to find on other internet toyota sites.

The ADD delete is a common reliability upgrade: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

OEM CV boots are better. Rockford CV boots are best: http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm

jj1994toyind

Problem 1994 toyota Truck front axel removal passenger side.
Need to install newouter CV boot.
I have searched all the post on IFS axel removal and CV rebuild and replacement.
I have found some say to remove the axel you have to remove shock and swaybar end links as well as lower ball joint.
I have found some say you dont have to remove any of the above.

Well I can't get mine out. I have removed the shock and the end links, still won't clear the lower A-arm. I have turned the wheel lock to lock with no help.
I have raised the lower a arm with no help.
I dont want to drive the axel out as I am sure I would have to drive it back in and it will rip my brand new boot in doing so.

See photos and please send me the secrete to getting the thing out.

thanks

big bear

#6 My pulley came off easy, if you don't take the pulley off how are you going to replace the front shaft seal.

Be ready for the impeller blades to fall out when you dis-assemble the pump, no biggie though, they go back in easy with a pair of tweezers.

scope103

The secret[e] is just making sure the suspension is compressed as though it were sitting on the wheels. I use a jack under the rotor to lift the rotor to where the weight is just coming off the jack stand.

I have heard of someone needing to slightly lift the opposite corner to get enough suspension compression. I think that represents a bent frame, but it might be worth a try.

And no, you don't need to remove the shock absorbers or the ball joints or any part of the differential; and you don't have to use that BFH. Put it away.

jj1994toyind

You Rock Scope103, I put my front tires back on and lowered truck back down and CV axel slide right out..easy peasy!!

Got the boot kit installed and put back on...

Now trying to get front Diff back in....help!! need a proceedure..using floor jack..

coss member on diff or off diff? What a pain..
Help

mws6283691

I just put a front diff from a 1990 v6 4runner w ADD into my 1989 scsb 22re truck. I was able to remove all the ADD stuff and use the tube, and the "axle" from the old diff. No more ADD. The biggest problem I have w the ADD system is that your Cv axles always rotate with this system causing ,Imho, premature wear. This won't. Be an issue once you put in the locking hubs though. If you have access to a non ADD diff, it is an easy thing to swap the tube and axle. If not, just make sure there's no way for the ADD to disconnect on you.
I found several threads on knocking out the studs on the diff and filing down the bolts, so that they can be removed easily for (dis)assembly. I did this easily in about 30 minutes during my swap with a hand file. What a difference that made! You don't even have to file them to perfection. I left a little of the grooves on the studs. On reinstallation, what was left of the grooves seemed to help align the studs without having to press them in. Talk about easy!! I will always do this from now on.

On getting the diff back in... this may not be the best way, but, after running through my vocabulary of cuss words, I removed the 2 rear mounts from the diff and put them on the truck. It was tight, but I was able to reach up and reattach everything. The diff went right in this way.

Best of luck with it. Scott

jj1994toyind

I got my front diff back in finaly!
Procedure used was putting diff on the floor jack side ways, and getting it balanced to where it would stay somewhat level. very carefully I rolled it in from the drivers side. With the coss member attached to the front diff I then consentrated on getting front crossmember passenger side attached with one bolt, then I rotated front diff and cross member up to then bolt in the drivers side of coss member.
I then used a second jack (bottle) and kept the rear of front diff up while bolting in the two rear mounts.
I got every thing torqued to spec including drive axels and drive shaft.

Now got to finish installing aisin manual hubs and new shocks. Oh, can't forget to put in new gear oil in front diff.

next project >>> installing new power steering pump