bassjoe613

Hello all,

First off, I'm not a mechanic, but I can do simple things with the right instructions.

I have a 1994 Toyota 4runner SR5 V6 with 4wd and a 5sp manual. I recently got the head gaskets replaced and clutch replaced by a mechanic, but a few problems have come about.

When I move the shift lever into 4wd, i hear a click from the dashboard (relay?) , but I don't get a 4wd light on the dash. I've tried driving it a bit, but the light never comes on. I can't feel much of a difference in 4H, but the ratio in 4L seems normal, but i don't know if all 4 wheels are working. When I recently got my oil changed, the diff was lubed as well.

Another small issue is my reverse lights don't seem to be working. I've seen a few threads saying both the reverse lights and 4wd indicator wires go to similar places, but when I looked under my truck at the diff, I didn't see any loose wires. I even unplugged some and plugged them back in to make sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

scope103

You have ADD, so the sound could be the solenoids on the right apron. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26addcontr.pdf Check to be sure the vacuum lines are correctly connected at the differential.

If the 4wd engages, you should notice a very different steering feel on dry pavement, and on a reasonable sharp turn (SLOW) you should hear the front tires squealing.

bassjoe613

Hey, thanks for the reply.

I didn't get a chance to look at it yesterday, as the only time I had available was when it was raining :/

I did get a bit of a look today, and I was going to measure the resistance of the solenoids from the FSM today, but I couldn't get those electrical connectors off. I tried prying the connector and pressing in the clip, but the connectors wouldn't come off. It then started raining again, so I couldn't continue. The vacuum lines look like they're connected correctly at the solenoids, but it looks like it might be tricky to get to the connections at the diff. I couldn't feel any air near the solenoids with the vac lines on or off.

I'll have to try again later, I suppose. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

maachine

4wd light bulb is burnt out?

bassjoe613

I was thinking that was a possibility, but I don't really feel a difference when driving in 4H. It feels the same as 2H. I can feel a pull in 4L, but I'm not sure it's actually in 4wd.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Your 4x4 light and reverse light switches are on your transmission and transfer case not by the diff. If you have ADD when you shift the transfer case the switch closes the ground going to the ADD stuff and then to the light. I would check the wires along the transmission first since you lost reverse lights as well.

RJR

It's easy enough to check whether the 4wd is actually engaging. Simply jack up one of the front wheels, set the hand brake, start the engine (so the ADD will work), and pull the transfer case into 4H. Shut down the engine, get out, and try to turn the jacked up front wheel. You shouldn't be able to rotate it. If you can, it means your ADD is not engaging, and that's why the light doesn't come on. If you can't turn it, the ADD is working, and you have an electrical problem with your 4WD indicator ljght.

Mdaniels441

I had the same problem on my '93 runner. Easiest way to check is to check the vacuum lines at the differential and make sure there in right. Then if you switch them it should force the system to engage. If it does there is a vacuum seal issue (check the passenger side close to cab there is a brown and blue plug and next to them are hoses with a vacuum valve that is on way and could be put in wrong) but if nothing happens it could be either electrical or the solinoid. You have to go to a YOTA dealership to replace them (about $130) and its risky because that could not be the problem. I went with warn Manuel locking hubs ($200 after tax) and put the vacuum hoses into a loop and also had the 4wd light come on. Plus the Manuel hubs help save wear-n-tear on the 4x4 forks in the differential and help turn radius and gas mpg (little bit but is noticeable)

bassjoe613

Hello all, sorry for the late reply.. I've been pretty busy.
Went out and looked at my 4runner today. I tried switching vac lines, but the 4wd light never came on. I took some pics of some possible issues. Hopefully you can help me figure things out.

On the passenger side, near the solenoids, I see vac lines coming off a 2 way line, but one's not connected, as shown here:


I also went under the truck and looked around for loose lines and I found one, but I'm not sure where it goes. Here's the line in question:


I found 2 spots where it looks like it could go



Any help would be greatly appreciated.

maachine

that angled one could be the A/C drain. no clue as to the others. might have a vacuum diagram under the hood somewhere that might help you out

scope103

In the first picture, the two green solenoids control the ADD (one shifts in, the other shifts out). The vac line that goes to the fitting on the apron goes through the apron to the reservoir inside the wheel well. The part you have circled has no hole through it; it's some sort of extra.

So be systematic. Fire it up (you need vacuum), and have someone shift in and out of 4wd. Make sure you can hear the solenoids. (you can get a fancy stethoscope http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-41966.html, or just use the tube from a roll of paper towels). If the solenoids are clicking, disconnect one of the output lines (the bottom ones) and put your thumb on it. You should feel suction when that solenoid opens. Trace that pair of lines to the front diff, and you can see where they connect to the actuator. Check the vacuum the same way.

RSR

Sounds like time for an ADD delete: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

RSR

For your hoses, (and I bought mine w/ the ADD already deleted), I think that just one line goes to the ADD tank in your first pic.

If you can find what that line connects to/orignates from, we might be able to help troubleshoot that.

Your next pic is definitely the A/C drain.

And I can't tell what your last pic is, but the ADD lines run from green solenoids in your first pic to the drivers front side of your differential.

RSR

Updating, I told you wrong on the add lines. Took some pics of my truck.

See the below pic for the vacuum canister lines. Blue filter thing behind the green valves is the vacuum line from the engine into the canister under the passenger wheel wheel. Return from canister goes to the green valves, and then the dark black caps underneath are where the vacuum lines would go to your front differential.


Backtracking the vacuum line towards the engine, it is the line underneath my finger:


Continuing from the T is the power steering vacuum line. From here:

To here:


Hope this helps.

scope103

Not quite. The line continuing from the Tee is for the cruise control. The power brakes are powered by the much larger vacuum line below your finger.

The power steering pump has a pair of lines that drive an idle-up. They're in one of your pictures (ALL the lines are in one of your pictures) but are not easy to pick out.

On my truck, I have the canister set-up like bassjoe613's; the vacuum line from the plenum Tees into the line that goes one way to the canister and the other to the solenoids. But it makes no difference; they're all on the same vacuum circuit.

bassjoe613

Thanks for the help. The A.D.D defeat looks like something I may do in the distant future, but I really want to get the stock set up working first..

I found where that hanging line originates:


It might be hard to see, but it's coming from the bottom of that black tank
Question is, where does it go? I can't find where it goes. I also find it odd that the end of it is angled, like it might have been severed.

Also, do my vac lines at my solenoids look correct? RSR has two coming from the passenger side , but I only had one.

Any ideas?

scope103

The bottom of the evap canister vents to atmosphere. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...76evaporat.pdf I don't know how it's held, so yours might have been severed, but it shouldn't make a difference.

I don't know which two vac lines you're talking about (geez, you've got enough pictures to draw on!). But if you're talking about the lines that go through the firewall to the vacuum reservoir, you're fine. We've got a Tee, he's got two lines to the reservoir.

bassjoe613

Yeah, sorry about the vague description. I was referring to my first pic, where the circle is. If they are fine that way, then that's a relief. Now to figure out what the real problem is. I'll try to do your test on the solenoids when I have another person around and when it's not so freaking hot

Thanks again.

bassjoe613

Hey, so I got a chance to check things out today, and I tried Scope's diagnosis. The solenoids are clicking, but when I put my thumb over the hoses, I feel little to no suction. I did notice a hissing sound coming from the plenum area, and discovered one of my hoses to be cracked pretty badly. It looks like it leads to the power steering reservoir (or near it at least. Right by the belts). I know this might seem like a newbie question, but could this vac leak be causing issues with my 4wd? (I'll replace the hose regardless) I noticed when my friend moved the transfer case lever, the hissing grew for a bit, then went back down.

Any ideas?

scope103

Sure; the 4wd needs vacuum to work (and you're not finding it!) Maybe you're losing it through a leaky hose.

(The two hoses that go to the base of the power steering pump are for the idle-up; when the pump is producing a lot of pressure (parallel parking) it connects the plenum to unmetered air, which raises the idle slightly, to keep you from killing the engine. You also have an idle-up for the Air Conditioning.)

A vacuum leak is going to cause other problems, like raising the idle at a minimum. At some point, someone may have reduced the idle speed to compensate for the bad hoses. Which means that once you repair the hoses you may have to "undo" all this amateur repair. One step at a time ....

But you are getting close. If you don't feel vacuum at the lines going to the actuator, you've just got to work backwards and find out where it went.