msethkua

I have a 1993 that is leaking from every possible location imaginable. I keep all the fluids topped off. Last week I began to lose a lot more fluid which I believe is due to head gasket. I have been keeping it topped off and filled it on Saturday. I only drive it about 1 mile a day. I parked at the bus stop and it was running fine, but still dripping quite a bit. After work I got back and drove it to the store about 6 blocks. I came out and restarted it to drive it about two blocks back home and within 50 feet it chugged to a stop. I checked the fluids, oil looks fine but coolant is very low. I topped it off. The vehicle never got warm. The vehicle turns over but no fire.... Any help is appreciated. Timing belt and water pump were new in May and plugs wires etc new in Feburary.

msethkua

Ok. It started to use antifreeze, possible head gasket.

msethkua

So still no luck. I was worried about head gasket because I know it has been leaking a lot of fluid but no fluids appear to be seeping into The oil the truck turns over. I can see and smell a small amount of fuel in the vacuum lines exiting the fuel pressure regulator. The other thing I notice is a loud click or knocking near the air filter area when trying to start it but not immediately. Usually not until I have tried to turn it over a few times. I appreciate any assistance.

scope103

If you have fuel smell in the FPR vacuum line, you could have a failed diaphragm in the FPR. Get a hand vacuum pump (for this job, mouth sucking on the line will not work) and a piece of 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl tubing. You should be able to put about 15" (about 7psi) of vacuum on it, and it should hold. If you pull up any fuel, you need to replace the FPR. It's not holding pressure in the rail, and your fuel mixture will never be right.

Of course, if you're leaking "everywhere," you could have a lot worse problems than the FPR. In your situation, I'd drain out at least a cup of oil and look for water. I'd open the top of the radiator and look for any oil slick.

By the way, it looks like you can replace the FPR without removing the plenum, doesn't it? No dice. You have to at least disconnect the plenum and move it 1/2" to get enough swing on the FPR.

msethkua

I have never moved the plenum. Is there a YouTube video? Also, do the stems that come off of it hit?

scope103

Probably. But you'll do much better with this: http://web.archive.org/web/201501160...89fuelpres.pdf
Sorry, I can't make heads or tails of that sentence.

Don't go on a wild goose chase. Be sure to check the FPR before you start taking stuff apart. Also, as I mentioned, you have all the signs of an engine over-heat that did something bad to the engine (head warp?) It won't do you any good to have excellent fuel pressure and no compression. Try to do things in order.

msethkua

Sorry. I am asking why the Plenum needs to be moved. Is it because the FRP won't spin and clear the plenum? I am not at home to look at it. As for the leak, it is leaking coollant but I am trying to get it to run so I can show it will start. It never overheated and there doesn't appear to be coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant.

msethkua

How long will that job take and is it something an amateur could do? Would I be wise to have a mobile mechanic do this? I don't have a test or either and unfortunately don't know a local mechanic. Dang it!

scope103

Correct. The fuel return line hits the plenum. You need to move the plenum towards the passenger side (towards the left in this photo) about 1/2".

IF you have removed the plenum before, you might be able to just remove the 8 bolts, lift it above the studs, and push it the 1/2" without disconnecting anything else (I did that). But the first time you remove the plenum is always the hardest, and you're likely to damage the plenum/lower intake manifold gasket as soon as you separate it.

scope103

Well, I've done it, and I'm sure no professional (well, I AM a professional, just not a professional mechanic). But you do need tools, and a place to work (some on this site report doing more extensive work standing in an apartment parking lot, but that's more than I could pull off). If you "just want to get it running again," doing this sort of work yourself probably won't save you any money once you factor in the cost of the tools you use once, and the amount of time it will take you the first time.

But that's not why you're here. You like working on machines, you're really interested in learning more about your vehicle, and you're willing to invest in the tools, research, and grease-time to get there.

Or not. There's no shame in going to a REAL professional.

msethkua

i have all the tools except a garage and lighting. I hate going to work in the dark and coming home in the dark! AND, I live in an apartment! going to try to look at it when I get home and see what I think