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1993 22RE DIED from puddle

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Old 11-29-2014, 11:34 PM
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1993 22RE DIED from puddle

1993 pickup. 5 speed. 22R-E engine.

I snapped my cold start timing switch off by accident the other day. It causes a rough start, CE light and a surging idle but once at operating temp. Its fine.

I followed a few buddies down a trail just over the state line to a bonfire pit I'd never been to before. On the way in, in a rush to keep up with the convoy, I charged through a deep icy puddle.

The idle became rough and any attempt to give it gas caused it to die.

This happened before when I had bad plug wires and an old distributor cap. I swapped them and could take on any puddle. Similarly I recently installed a brand new alternator and battery.

I gave it a few minutes to dry out and after it failed to crank up like always I attempted a pop start on the hill.

No dice. Parked it and headed to the fire. Had a few beers and let it dry.

Went back and had trouble starting it. After a few attempts and no luck, I waded through the smell of gas to my beer.

After an hour I got it to start up (with a huge fight) and it idled great. As soon as I hit the gas, it died. Also my CE lamp was no longer lit...)

Eventually some guys at the fire got curious and came over to help. We unplugged the mass airflow sensor to reset the ECU conditions and it ran. Under load it died. If we started it with the MAS unplugged, we would attempt to plug it in and as soon as the electrodes made contact the engine spluttered and died. If we let it run with the MAS unplugged it would die after a few minutes of stumbling idle

We cleaned out the distributor cap and rotor.

We checked the air filter. Dry as a bone.

Found the mass air flow sensor TO coil wire had a sketchy connection. Cut out the connector and spliced the wires. Caught, died under load.

Finally we found a vacuum line on top of the valve cover (the one with the weird orange plastic drum embedded in it) seemed to have separated from a twin tube bracket on the driver side of the valve cover. We taped up the ends of the broken hose fittings and still, nothing.

Had to have it towed.

I'm bumming guys. She's never truly let me down before.

Any thoughts?

(Oh and the tow truck driver broke my junk yard-scavenged toyota factory bug deglector by accident. FML right?)

Last edited by SLAYfriknBODIES; 11-29-2014 at 11:47 PM.
Old 11-29-2014, 11:49 PM
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Bummer

Did you check the CEL codes?

Also you said you snapped the CSI switch.. The thing next to the coolant temp sensor? If that's the one I would check to see that you're getting good connection from the coolant temp sensor. Could totally cause an engine to die.

Also a bad or unplugged AFM would die under load, the engine would have no way to meter the air coming in so basically all air entering the engine becomes a huge vacuum leak and starves it.

Maybe take some pics of the connections and vac hoses and such so we can get a really good idea of your setup

Also have you checked the alternator
Old 11-29-2014, 11:52 PM
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Are you getting fire to the plugs? Pull a plug and ground it and see if it is firing. I would run a resistance check on the coil if it is not firing. Haynes Manual has a good test for the coil.

Even in the FSM, the check for the Igniter is not the best test or clear how to test it. I just have a spare that use for testing. Did water get over to the coil and igniter?

Make sure all of your hose connections are making a good fit and no air leaks. The rear VSV with a hose off will give all kinds of trouble.
Old 11-29-2014, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
Make sure all of your hose connections are making a good fit and no air leaks. The rear VSV with a hose off will give all kinds of trouble.
Yep that's the one I was thinking, too. The fuel pressure up VSV. Tells the fuel pressure regulator to allow more pressure when under vacuum and during starting.

I bypassed mine and have the FPR vac line hooked straight to the intake.
Old 11-30-2014, 05:00 AM
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One of my VSV hoses snapped off with the plastic neck still in it. Its the hose closest to the front of the truck.
Old 11-30-2014, 07:00 AM
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Red face

Beer and wrenching on broke trucks really don`t mix

I would sure like to know how you unplugged something that should not be there.

It has a AFM when unplugged the Circuit opening relay does not turn on the pump Meaning of course it will die.All The wires from the Afm go to the ecu or the Cor None to the coil.

Now you have just made it worse.!!!

Then maybe the fuel pump circuit is just a toggle switch??

You hit the puddle hard enough to bounce the coil wire still fully seated in the coil?/

How much water splashed did you get the ecu wet??
Old 11-30-2014, 12:03 PM
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We only unplugged the AFM to get it running. Plugged in it wouldn't catch.

After the engine caught, we tried to plug the AFM back in but as soon as the electrodes made contact: dead.

I ordered a new VSV because regardless of it being a problem or not, its broken. The front hose is flopping around loose with the sheared off nipple in it.
Old 11-30-2014, 07:27 PM
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Well with that hose broken off it sounds like you definitely have a vacuum leak which will make it run like crap or even die at idle.

For the time being (or permanently) you can bypass the fuel pressure up VSV by snipping the vac line at the broken plastic.. Route it around back of the plenum and hook it straight up to the FPR vac input.

I bypassed and removed that VSV completely and the FPU operation still works perfectly.

Last edited by jennygirl; 11-30-2014 at 07:29 PM.
Old 12-01-2014, 11:06 AM
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Need some help with a broken sensor.



I snapped it off last weekend. It causes a CE light and a hell of a lot of trouble starting. It is threaded into the BVSV housing next to another sensor.

the shop towel is to stem the flow of COOLANT pouring out of the hole.

It has a GREEN connector on the wiring harness



Which has three locking slots for the exterior of the sensor it clips to

HOWEVER



It doesn't have these slots on the surface of the connector.

Replacement coolant temperature sensor from Toyota not only has these mating ridges but is molded in green plastic. The difference was enough to fool a Toyota tech into telling me that it was the cold start time switch....Which I have been trying to hunt down without success in terms of matching my sensor.

Why is my sensor black and smooth? Why is it different than the Toyota part? Its a US built truck and I know there were way more jap made trucks for my model year out there. Any ideas?
Old 12-01-2014, 11:41 AM
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93 died from puddle

clicking on your pic link but no pics appear
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