1992 Rear gate not latching ARG!!!
#1
1992 Rear gate not latching ARG!!!
New to 4runners and have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what's going on with my rear tailgate. The window works but only with the key and I am fine with that unless whatever the issue with the inside switch is the culprit.
Current problem is that the door latches won't full engage with the window down. If I hold the door closed and run the window 2/3 up it will go ahead and grab the latches. I can't see what could be causing this, have searched for a long time without success and am finally at the point I need some advice from someone with more knowledge than I have. I just bought this rig and have been working on it and I can't believe this is how it's supposed to operate. Anyone have a clue what to look for?
Your help is appreciated.
Current problem is that the door latches won't full engage with the window down. If I hold the door closed and run the window 2/3 up it will go ahead and grab the latches. I can't see what could be causing this, have searched for a long time without success and am finally at the point I need some advice from someone with more knowledge than I have. I just bought this rig and have been working on it and I can't believe this is how it's supposed to operate. Anyone have a clue what to look for?
Your help is appreciated.
#3
Yes it unlatches part way down. I can't figure out where the connection is that is controlling this. I have looked over the mechanism pretty thorough and must be missing something.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Most times they don`t unlatch.
Maybe if you lube where the cables attach .
It could be the latches are not being returned all the way to the lock position.
Something has come loose inside the hatch allowing the window or regulator to move the cables causing this to happen.
Could be something hooked up wrong or parts missing.
You being new might not notice it.
The window may be the only thing holding the hatch closed so when lowered part way the pressure is off allowing the hatch to open.
Is it possible to post pictures??
The window moving up or down should not effect the latches.
Maybe if you lube where the cables attach .
It could be the latches are not being returned all the way to the lock position.
Something has come loose inside the hatch allowing the window or regulator to move the cables causing this to happen.
Could be something hooked up wrong or parts missing.
You being new might not notice it.
The window may be the only thing holding the hatch closed so when lowered part way the pressure is off allowing the hatch to open.
Is it possible to post pictures??
The window moving up or down should not effect the latches.
#5
You just gave me enough info to figure it out. The fact that there really isn't some connection to the window other than the obvious ones in the main mechanism let me get past the assumption that it was electrical or another hidden mechanical issue. I reached in on each side where the cable connects to the lever at the latch and with a forked tool pushed real hard on the lever that the cable hooks to and stretched the cable back out and that was all it took. The PO didn't have the door keys and the center console switch doesn't work so my bet is he hadn't opened that gate in a very long time. The seemed to be just bunched up a little from neglect or age. That seemed to do the trick. A little shot of dry lube in there probably will help too. I'm in business. I thought the latch was finally catching as the window went up but it was the edge of the window.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
#7
I probably should but I bought this rig last weekend to send off to college with one of my girls and she's heading back out tomorrow or the day after. Did a clutch, door keys and lucked out getting the gate to work and that's about it for me for now.
$1,100 buy plus $400-$500 for clutch and misc. Fairly awesome school rig. 326,000 miles and runs like a top. Decent original paint and not a freakin dent one in any quarter panel. Leaks a little oil at the head gaskets but that too will have to wait for another day. I saw all kinds of things that could use some attention down there while crawling around under it but nothing that will keep it off the road. She's a couple hours away so hopefully it waits a while before the engine grenades.
$1,100 buy plus $400-$500 for clutch and misc. Fairly awesome school rig. 326,000 miles and runs like a top. Decent original paint and not a freakin dent one in any quarter panel. Leaks a little oil at the head gaskets but that too will have to wait for another day. I saw all kinds of things that could use some attention down there while crawling around under it but nothing that will keep it off the road. She's a couple hours away so hopefully it waits a while before the engine grenades.
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