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1991 4Runner head gasket repair

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Old 12-20-2012, 03:23 PM
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1991 4Runner head gasket repair

So I just bought what looks to be a pretty sweet 1991 4runner. I bought it off a trustworthy dude so I feel pretty good about the truck overall. I payed 900$ for the yota, but it has a blown head gasket. I talked to him and he said it didn't overheat or anything, but after I checked it out, I'm pretty sure its a blown head gasket. there's coolant coming through the intake, I can even see coolant residue in the exhaust tip (it has a shorty side exhaust). From what he told me, the engine was rebuilt only 10,000 miles ago, and he pulled it from another 4runner that had a blown transmission.

So I've started my project. I just took off the timing belt cover, and I'm a little discouraged, because the timing belt is cracking and no signs of the usual signs when an engine is rebuilt i.e. new water pump and all that jazz. I'm pretty new to toyotas so I have a lot of concerns and questions. I'm almost thinking it may be better to just buy a new engine since there are so many unknowns about it? I would appreciate any advice and I will post pictures as I go.

damnit I just spent 45 minutes trying to upload pics of this engine. any help?
Old 12-20-2012, 03:33 PM
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yay i figured out how to upload pics

This thing doesn't look like it was rebuilt recently, I'm no expert so what do you guys think? I'm gonna keep taking the thing apart, but I would greatly appreciate any advice.










heres the truck:




Last edited by big1000; 12-20-2012 at 03:39 PM.
Old 12-21-2012, 10:08 AM
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So ive taken the upper part of the air intake off now, and more discouragement. I keep seeing signs of just another dirty old tired engine. The intake seems black and dirty, I attatched a pic:



for the good news, The power steering pump pulley came off really easily. here's a pic of the technique I used:



So I'm trying to disconnect the power steering pump and I hit a road block. The high pressure line that you see to the left of my vice grips in the picture above^^^. I cracked the bolt easily, but it seems like the high pressure line is attached to it. I cant turn it to loosen it anymore without chance of breaking the high pressure line. are they supposed to be connected?

Thanks!!!
Old 12-21-2012, 10:34 AM
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that doesn't look like it was rebuilt torcently, if you're considering a new engine, definately lok t a 3.4 swap, it's not too difficult, and the 5vz is a far stronger engine. you can search for it on here, there's lots of info. $900 for that is a pretty good deal even with a bad motor!
Old 12-21-2012, 10:39 AM
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I don't know that motor, per se, but I would check compression and maybe do a leak down test and see what that tells you. I know you have it apart already, so that might not be a good option. If you are game for doing the work, you are going to end up with a motor that you trust more than one you just bought. The parts will run you $500 or so, your labor is going to be priceless in experience gained. I say go for it! (I just did the same thing on my $1000 1988 pickup, so glad I did!)
Old 12-21-2012, 11:05 AM
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I figured out the power steering pump thing. you just crank it and it comes off in one piece. feel free to PM me if you're having trouble with the same thing.

Originally Posted by niall
that doesn't look like it was rebuilt torcently, if you're considering a new engine, definately lok t a 3.4 swap, it's not too difficult, and the 5vz is a far stronger engine. you can search for it on here, there's lots of info. $900 for that is a pretty good deal even with a bad motor!
thanks. from what I understand the engine sat for a WHILE after it was rebuilt in a 4runner with a blown tranny. The guy I bought it from swapped it into this 4runner, it ran great for a month or so, then head gasket. I also understand when an engine sits for a while it can weaken the head gasket, feel free to correct me on this if I'm wrong. so it may just look that way on the outside.
Since i've got it apart already, I'm going to take it down to the heads and if the valves and pistons look good I'll go for the head gasket swap. if the thing looks hammered, well, then I'll start exploring option b) replace engine.

quote: I don't know that motor, per se, but I would check compression and maybe do a leak down test and see what that tells you. I know you have it apart already, so that might not be a good option. If you are game for doing the work, you are going to end up with a motor that you trust more than one you just bought. The parts will run you $500 or so, your labor is going to be priceless in experience gained. I say go for it! (I just did the same thing on my $1000 1988 pickup, so glad I did!)

yeah a bit too late for compression test. also, it sat for 6 weeks after the head gasket blew, so i dont really want to turn it over in case theres some rust in the cylinder walls. I'm gonna go for it!

thanks for the words of wisdom guys.

Last edited by big1000; 12-21-2012 at 11:08 AM.
Old 12-21-2012, 09:24 PM
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I've almost gotten the engine down to the heads now. Long day so I don't want to look at the truck anymore.

I have a friend who works at napa and can get me a discounted head gasket. From what I've been hearing in the forums, OEM Toyota head gaskets are the only way to go. Do you guys have any words of wisdom on what type of aftermarket head gaskets to look for? Or what to avoid if I choose to go aftermarket?
Old 12-22-2012, 02:40 AM
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Felpro gaskets are my recommendation. $60 at my local parts store. Take the head to a machine shop with good reviews. I made the mistake of choosing the cheap option and suffered for it.
Old 12-22-2012, 02:59 AM
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ditto. get the heads checked.

we went with TOYOTA gaskets. AISIN oil pump / water pump ( available at NAPA I beleive too).....shop around. matter of fact, we got a rebuild gasket kit from TOYOTA. our build list was pretty extensive, and sorry to say, probably quite scattered throughout my son's build thread (in my sig).

pulling the motor is your best bet. I did NOT really want to do that, but the difference between building my 22re in the truck and rebuilding his 3vze on a stand were miles apart as far as ease goes.

might want to consider headers at this point too (always very easy spending someone else's money)...but the benefits are supposedly worth it.

for what it's worth...in my son's thread, we turned the key on it JULY of 2011. we spent about a year amassing parts and doing putzy work on it (i'm pretty slow and deliberate)...so it will be frustrating to read all those details, but you will see you are not alone.

I will edit with a link to another rebuild more recent than our's.

EDIT: here it is ------->>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-253050/

Last edited by 92 TOY; 12-22-2012 at 03:00 AM.
Old 12-22-2012, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by nctom
Felpro gaskets are my recommendation. $60 at my local parts store. Take the head to a machine shop with good reviews. I made the mistake of choosing the cheap option and suffered for it.
definetely will use a reputable machine shop. As for the felpro gaskets, I have heard that the non MLS gaskets can do the job if you are uncertain about the squareness of your engine block. I was reading up on a few forums in here and apparently the MLS gaskets are better only if you have your heads AND your block checked. I'm a little up in the air on this one. What I am sold on is the copper spray compound that you can apply to the block to fill any imperfections from milling.

Originally Posted by 92 TOY
ditto. get the heads checked.

we went with TOYOTA gaskets. AISIN oil pump / water pump ( available at NAPA I beleive too).....shop around. matter of fact, we got a rebuild gasket kit from TOYOTA. our build list was pretty extensive, and sorry to say, probably quite scattered throughout my son's build thread (in my sig).

pulling the motor is your best bet. I did NOT really want to do that, but the difference between building my 22re in the truck and rebuilding his 3vze on a stand were miles apart as far as ease goes.

might want to consider headers at this point too (always very easy spending someone else's money)...but the benefits are supposedly worth it.

for what it's worth...in my son's thread, we turned the key on it JULY of 2011. we spent about a year amassing parts and doing putzy work on it (i'm pretty slow and deliberate)...so it will be frustrating to read all those details, but you will see you are not alone.

I will edit with a link to another rebuild more recent than our's.

EDIT: here it is ------->>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-253050/

thanks for the nice rebuild thread 92 toy! I'm hoping that I can get the engine running right with just the head gasket. Apparently, the engine only has 10k on a rebuild, and then it sat for a while . It seems the concensus is toyota gaskets.. but really the only reason I have found is because they are tougher, no specifics. also, theres a guy who was reccomending copper head gaskets, which sounds like it could be a great thing.

I do have a question about the injectors though. I see that you recomended witch hunter. When I pulled my injectors, I noticed the tips were quite dirty, and the plastic shroud around the tip on two of the injectors was cracked. How much to service all of the injectors, and replace these tips. will the injectors work without the shroud completely?

thanks
Old 12-22-2012, 07:49 AM
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http://witchhunter.com/

$21.00 plus a bit of shipping per injector. I've used them....highly recommended. Any part that is replaceable, they send it back with new.

The process

Last edited by rworegon; 12-22-2012 at 07:50 AM.
Old 12-22-2012, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by big1000
definetely will use a reputable machine shop. As for the felpro gaskets, I have heard that the non MLS gaskets can do the job if you are uncertain about the squareness of your engine block. I was reading up on a few forums in here and apparently the MLS gaskets are better only if you have your heads AND your block checked. I'm a little up in the air on this one. What I am sold on is the copper spray compound that you can apply to the block to fill any imperfections from milling.




thanks for the nice rebuild thread 92 toy! I'm hoping that I can get the engine running right with just the head gasket. Apparently, the engine only has 10k on a rebuild, and then it sat for a while . It seems the concensus is toyota gaskets.. but really the only reason I have found is because they are tougher, no specifics. also, theres a guy who was reccomending copper head gaskets, which sounds like it could be a great thing.

I do have a question about the injectors though. I see that you recomended witch hunter. When I pulled my injectors, I noticed the tips were quite dirty, and the plastic shroud around the tip on two of the injectors was cracked. How much to service all of the injectors, and replace these tips. will the injectors work without the shroud completely?

thanks
I swear I remember someone explaining that the TOYOTA gaskets were redesigned post-head gasket recall issues. to me, I thought OEM is always BEST. the deeper you dig into this the closer you are to the end and the further you are from the beginning (ooooh....deep) and realize you will never want to do this again.


the "tips" you speak of....not sure what you mean. If they are part of the injector itself, witch-hunter takes care of all that. there are some things I called "cups" (and I made up names for stuff while I was going along) that are a black plastic-like material (the word bacolite ??spelling?? comes to mind) that the injectors themselves get popped into on the intake....those critters cost a few bucks each and require a gasket as well.


Originally Posted by rworegon
http://witchhunter.com/

$21.00 plus a bit of shipping per injector. I've used them....highly recommended. Any part that is replaceable, they send it back with new.

The process
I think I remember the turnaround time to be under 5 days.....like as if that mattered to me. But, for you, it may.


PS...lotsa pics.

PSS...Doug Thorley headers (about $600)
Old 01-07-2013, 02:19 PM
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OK, so I took a break for the holidays, but I recently got down to the heads and there is rust in the cylinders. rather than go to all the trouble of putting it back together with the possibility of the cylinders being scored because of the rust, or rebuilding it, I ordered a JDM engine. I'll do a write up on the replacement.

The transmission i have is a 5 sp with 200k miles on it. the JDM engine I bought has the 5spd tranny and 4x4 tcase bolted up to it! with only 60k! Its going to be a PITA to install for sure, but I'm really stoked now because I've never driven this 4runner, i bought it as a project, and ill have the engine and tranny at my house next week!

my plan is that I can sell the old tranny and tcase !

i also have two blown 3vze's at my house i need to sell...

heres some pics of the engine:







let me know what you think!
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