RedYota91

Ah man. Feeling way in over my head on this. What was I thinking?

just call me smithy

hang in there, i remember doing my own head gasket on my 91 4runner , i was 14 and had never tackled such a large project, take your time and lable every thing, and if you need help your at the right place, there are tons of people here willing to help.

92 TOY

If this is not a vehicle you need done in a hurry, i would say...walk away for a bit.

if you can't do that, then just systematically approach this.

we have my son's engine out....never , ever, did that kinda thing before.

it can be done.

xxxtreme22r

Yup and you did pretty darn good before I got there. Only missed one thing in the engine bay. The alternator wiring.

Only missed one thing on the 22r rebuild as well. 1 hose clamp.

I agree with the other guys, Label everything to what makes sense for you. Don't really need to be labed perfectly correct. Ie part names etc etc. I believe 92 Toy uses numbers in alot of spots?

The FSM is your friend and so are we. A lot of use here have done this before and are willing to help. Not everything is gonna come apart physically easily on a 20+ year old vehicle, so don't let that discourage you either.

Doing something like this is time consuming and taking breaks away from it is a good thing, let you clear your head. I have pulled many engines, rebuilt a few, pulled transmissions etc etc, and I still have to walk away for a while now and then as well.

What I cannot walk away and take a break from is this website, argggggg. LMAO.

92 TOY

hey thanks man

yes.....it's the thing that i said when i finally got the motor in my truck back together....a line that i heard before...."how do you eat an elephant?...1 bite at a time".

RedYota91

You guys are awesome! I am just taking a break and this thing does not need to be running anytime soon, but obviously, the sooner the better. Its a combination of all these damn vacuum hoses, a guide that has 1 picture for every 10 steps, and an overall lack of knowledge of what an EGR, PCV, generator, canister, etc.. Man, just wish this stuff was pre-labeled! Hahaha!

Things that have gone wrong so far:
-When disconnecting the MAF (I think it is.. Its the plug that attaches to the intake) I got focused on the 2 screws, and pulled it apart. AHHHHH! Did some searches on here and it looks like Im out $300 unless I pull it apart and attempt to solder the thing. Great.

-I came close to stripping the 'clutch release cylinder hose' nut. Does it need to be removed?

I feel like this manual has me disconnecting EVERYTHING POSSIBLE. I think this is why Im so overwhelmed. Can I just go at the bolts that are holding the intake manifold down and just start removing stuff that keeps it from coming up?! Haha!

92 TOY

look in my sig...

i have a link to my son's rebuild....i'll try to find what you need.

92 TOY

start w/ post 178 , page 7.

don't know if it's gonna be real helpful.

i'm very visual.....so if you have a question, post up a pic.

RedYota91

Again, you guys are awesome! 92 TOY, we are using your thread as a reference. Thanks again! I really appreciate the motivational words, with your help, we were able to do this..


And we're still diggin' in!

PS - On another topic.. Loosening the crank pulley nut... Is the whole 'breaker bar/blip the engine' a proper way to go? Hahaha I dont even know if this thing is going to attempt to start with all our stuff off!

yotarob2005

The breaker bar trick does work. It is not going to help you re-tighten it though. Try a good impact first. I ended up making a tool. I can try to post a pic in the AM.

RedYota91

So now that I think about it, I should've had the timing belt off by this point.. At least per the instructions. Anyone have any input on how we should tackle it where we are at? We dont have a compressor/impact driver.. Even if we did, wouldnt one worry about spinning the crank backwards? Do you put it in gear? Hmmm..

xxxtreme22r

you don't need it to start you just want the engine to turn via the starter, so as long as you have the starter still hooked up you should be fine, however, I would make sure you have the fuel pump fuse pulled so your not dumping fuel all over the place when you turn the key. After it's loose you can put it back to TDC #1 compression stroke.

RedYota91

Sounds good. I think thats the route we're going.

More input needed! Everything looks so shiny and nice.. Im debating if a new timing belt/water pump/pulleys are needed.. What do you all think?

(Notice the corrosion on the coolant inlet vs. the face of the water pump)

Shiney

RedYota91

EDIT: Noob mistake. Search function is your friend. The whole breaker bar/turn the engine over trick works!

xxxtreme22r

unless it was making noise the pulleys are most likely not needed, however, new water pump and timing belt is not a bad thing to do if you don't know the history of the motor. Even if they are still good, you don't want to tear apart that front end of the motor again. Just do like I do, keep the old water pump and timing belt as spares just in case.

92 TOY

wow, RED I'm floating in the same boat as you.

1st of all, it probably would have been a GREAT idea for us to break the crankshaft bolt loose while the motor was in the truck......but, I didn't do that, so I have to scheme up something different.

secondly, in looking at the front end of my son's motor, the water pump and attached ??PULLEY?? appear almost brand new....even newer than what you show, so I am hesitant to replace it but then it comes down to the dilemma of we should just replace it anyway.

likewise the timing belt looks fine.....but really, to me, what do I know? It's gonna get replaced too.

Basically......don't want to do any of this again. No how, no way. So while we are in there, everything that should be replaced and refreshed will be.

By the way RED, thanks for the compliments. As you probably read, or not, I am no mechanic. Just like to figure stuff out. That's why I go slowly.......well, that, plus I have no $$$$$$ to do anything anyway. So, while we wait for that bucket of money to appear, we clean and read and try to gain understanding.

For this motor, we will very likely be getting most of the replacement parts from Toyota.....IE: the timing belt and head gaskets, the rest of the stuff I will probably get from Rock Auto or ENGNBLDR (depending on what he has).

While you are in there, I would recommend sending your injectors and cold start injector off to Witch Hunter Performance for testing and refurbishing. Was about $105 for 4 injectors and the CSI.....so I estimate less than $200 for this motor.

ab_mekanik

you can do it!

The FSM shows the order for a complete tear down, not the how (they assume you know since it's written for "professionals") but the how this board can tell you if you run into issues.

Just be glad it's not an East Coast or Newfoundland vehicle. The rust would have you crying. When you have to heat up every bolt and none of them come easy even after the heat, it makes for a really long day.

and yes, I've used the engine starter and breaker bar trick. Make sure it's a good breaker bar first and pull your fuel pump/efi relay. You have your fuel line disconnected.

xxxtreme22r

I showed you how to do that while I was there helping you pull it out. You forget already? Please don't scratch my newly painted skid plate for busting your nuts.

92 TOY

no...i did not.

actually thinking about doing that which you alluded to along with hooking it back up to the lift hoist so i don't knock the whole dang thing over.....hehehehe

xxxtreme22r

still scared about that engine stand tipping over while breaking that bolt free huh? lol