1990 Toyota Pickup 3VZE A fixing thread
08-17-2016, 07:03 AM
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1990 Toyota Pickup 3VZE A fixing thread
My Truck:
1990
Pickup
3VZE
DLX Model
Manual Trans
No A/C or Cruise Control
217K miles on truck
150 Miles and counting after rebuild
Background: I bought the truck with a bad HG leak to the #6 cylinder. I pulled the motor and replaced every part on it (WP, OP, SEALS, GASKETS, etc. etc.). I did not touch the pistons, crank and rings. No point in it really. The block was solid and I am building a daily driver/dirt bike hauler. The 3vze is a solid motor platform but has no real wow factor to it. Keep it simple and easy to win with it.
Current Issue: None. Truck runs great.
Through a series of tests and replacing parts I have found the below to work:
Fixes for Idle issues:
1. Check for Vacuum leaks. My intake elbow that connects to the throttle body had a tear on the bottom, never would have caught this if I hadn't been cleaning the throttle body.
2. Clean the throttle body air passages and coolant passages.
3. Check your coolant levels. Top off the block through the top coolant hose and the radiator then burp the system. Low coolant will tell the ECU to raise the idle.
4. Temperature Switch - Yes, this feeds the dummy gauge in the cab but changing it helped the idle recover from being low/stalling. I had noted that the switch was in open loop and not properly sending feedback. This will factor into a lot of decision making so having an accurate temp reading is crucial and it may help your idle situation.
5. Adjust the TPS to be in spec or replace.
6. Replace the fan clutch. A stuck or sticking fan clutch will make the engine work harder and rob horsepower. It will affect your idle.
Clutch Issues:
1. Shifting was notchy with the new heavy duty Luk Clutch/Flywheel. I adjusted the clutch pedal (elongated) out and have had better engagement. There is still a little grind after everything comes up to temp in reverse but I think the overall solution is a new master and slave cylinder.
Trans Issues:
1. The notchy shifting is also due to the syncro's wearing. A fresh oil change may help but at 217K a rebuild on the trans wouldn't hurt either. It isn't necessary now but will be needed for future plans.
Overall:
The 3vze is more complicated than the 20r/22r/22re. It also has more power/torque. If you haul 500-1000 lbs regularly the extra power is helpful otherwise the 22 series motor would be more than adequate. The plan is to drive the truck, buy swap parts and generate bigger HP!! I am considering the 5vzfe (V6) and 1uzfe (V8) right now. Looks like the 1UZ is cheaper but much less supported.
1990
Pickup
3VZE
DLX Model
Manual Trans
No A/C or Cruise Control
217K miles on truck
150 Miles and counting after rebuild
Background: I bought the truck with a bad HG leak to the #6 cylinder. I pulled the motor and replaced every part on it (WP, OP, SEALS, GASKETS, etc. etc.). I did not touch the pistons, crank and rings. No point in it really. The block was solid and I am building a daily driver/dirt bike hauler. The 3vze is a solid motor platform but has no real wow factor to it. Keep it simple and easy to win with it.
Current Issue: None. Truck runs great.
Through a series of tests and replacing parts I have found the below to work:
Fixes for Idle issues:
1. Check for Vacuum leaks. My intake elbow that connects to the throttle body had a tear on the bottom, never would have caught this if I hadn't been cleaning the throttle body.
2. Clean the throttle body air passages and coolant passages.
3. Check your coolant levels. Top off the block through the top coolant hose and the radiator then burp the system. Low coolant will tell the ECU to raise the idle.
4. Temperature Switch - Yes, this feeds the dummy gauge in the cab but changing it helped the idle recover from being low/stalling. I had noted that the switch was in open loop and not properly sending feedback. This will factor into a lot of decision making so having an accurate temp reading is crucial and it may help your idle situation.
5. Adjust the TPS to be in spec or replace.
6. Replace the fan clutch. A stuck or sticking fan clutch will make the engine work harder and rob horsepower. It will affect your idle.
Clutch Issues:
1. Shifting was notchy with the new heavy duty Luk Clutch/Flywheel. I adjusted the clutch pedal (elongated) out and have had better engagement. There is still a little grind after everything comes up to temp in reverse but I think the overall solution is a new master and slave cylinder.
Trans Issues:
1. The notchy shifting is also due to the syncro's wearing. A fresh oil change may help but at 217K a rebuild on the trans wouldn't hurt either. It isn't necessary now but will be needed for future plans.
Overall:
The 3vze is more complicated than the 20r/22r/22re. It also has more power/torque. If you haul 500-1000 lbs regularly the extra power is helpful otherwise the 22 series motor would be more than adequate. The plan is to drive the truck, buy swap parts and generate bigger HP!! I am considering the 5vzfe (V6) and 1uzfe (V8) right now. Looks like the 1UZ is cheaper but much less supported.
Last edited by ADVYOTA; 08-29-2016 at 07:26 AM.
08-17-2016, 12:03 PM
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Otherwise man, looks like a good motor in your pickup. After I had mine rebuild, I put headers vs the stock manifold to remedy the head gasket issue from blowing on cylinder 6.
Last edited by Janos01; 08-17-2016 at 12:08 PM.
08-17-2016, 04:29 PM
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My idle was messed up as well I could never get it to idle consistent.
Then I found a surprising issue that solved it. Under the intake is a crossover tube for coolant right next to the knock sensor. On mine I took this pipe out and found that the little elbow was not passing coolant and therefore not ever feeding hot coolant to close the IAC valve. Basically causing a vacuum leak. Might be worth checking.
You could check by popping off the coolant line to the IAC and make sure it squirts out. And I also took off my IAC valve from the throttle body and put it in hot water and made sure it closed.
Then I found a surprising issue that solved it. Under the intake is a crossover tube for coolant right next to the knock sensor. On mine I took this pipe out and found that the little elbow was not passing coolant and therefore not ever feeding hot coolant to close the IAC valve. Basically causing a vacuum leak. Might be worth checking.
You could check by popping off the coolant line to the IAC and make sure it squirts out. And I also took off my IAC valve from the throttle body and put it in hot water and made sure it closed.
08-22-2016, 06:18 AM
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Solved
So I pulled the throttle body, cleaned all the passages but they were all clear without signs of a clog.... BUT
This then caused a high idle issue I could not control with the Idle Adjustment screw (on the throttle body). Out of ideas a buddy suggested that the TPS be re calibrated. couldn't hurt...
We noted that the Idle to E2 connection was in open loop. We adjusted it (it was really sensitive so I suggest using a helper). We threw it on the truck after getting it to spec and poof hunting idle gone. We tested it the next morning from cold and again everything was working as it should.
Here are the LCE instructions: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...Adjustment.pdf
Now to keep working on the truck to make it look better now that the mechanics are sorted for the time being!!!
This then caused a high idle issue I could not control with the Idle Adjustment screw (on the throttle body). Out of ideas a buddy suggested that the TPS be re calibrated. couldn't hurt...
We noted that the Idle to E2 connection was in open loop. We adjusted it (it was really sensitive so I suggest using a helper). We threw it on the truck after getting it to spec and poof hunting idle gone. We tested it the next morning from cold and again everything was working as it should.
Here are the LCE instructions: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...Adjustment.pdf
Now to keep working on the truck to make it look better now that the mechanics are sorted for the time being!!!
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08-29-2016, 07:27 AM
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More Horse Power??
Yep - replace your fan clutch. A stuck fan clutch robs a lot of power, causes your engine to run cooler (too cool). Retards timing (engine thinks its still cold/warming up). It woke up my motor quite a bit when I replaced the fan clutch.
Yep - replace your fan clutch. A stuck fan clutch robs a lot of power, causes your engine to run cooler (too cool). Retards timing (engine thinks its still cold/warming up). It woke up my motor quite a bit when I replaced the fan clutch.
