bill3779

Hi all,

New to the forum and this may have been asked already. Working on replacing the knock sensor on my 1990 4runner 3.0L V6. I am surprisingly making pretty good headway on it beings I would never consider myself a mechanic lol.

Anyway, my question is when removing the intake manifold, do you need to remove the fuel rails or can they just stay in place and lift the manifold off.
Thank you for the help.

Bill

rworegon

No need to pull the rails if you can get to all the bolts holding the manifold down.

bill3779

thank you much...that's what it looked like to me also. what a job this is turning out to be. I thought replacing the timing belt and water pump was a pain but this has got it beat.

thanks for the info
bill

rworegon

You are replacing the knock sensor wire pigtail too, right? It gets beat up by the heat.

scope103

Which brings up the question: why are you replacing the knock sensor? Code 52?

The most likely cause of a code 52 is a bad pigtail. The sensor itself if probably okay (they are both simple and tough). But considering that you have to dig pretty deep to replace either, I would never fault someone for putting in a new knock sensor at the same time. (There is no good way to test the sensor.)

Gevo

Guys. Where can I find this pigtail? I am trying to find it on toyotapartsoverstock.com, but I guess I must be looking in the wrong section???

bill3779

That was a pain for me to find to. Found mine the same place i got the sensor, through ebay. If thats not an option...try your local toyota dealer as i could not find it at any of the auto parts stores in my area.

Good luck

abecedarian

Or build your own with some flexible, coaxial cable, like one would use for exposed outdoor cable TV / satellite antenna installation.
Ground the shield near the ECU; center connected to the wire leading to the ECU, and some dielectric grease on the connection to the knock sensor.
Heat shrink over connections, if appropriate.

scope103

wire, sensor 82219-35010 $10.97
http://www.toyotapart.com/82219-35010.html

And no, you're not going to find it at a "local parts store." With all due respect to abecedarian, I couldn't build one of these for $11. And I have lots of scrap RG-9 and the crimper tool.

abecedarian

No offense taken.

I have lots of scrap LMR240 and smaller (I build cell sites so...), butt splices, crimp on terminals and heat shrink from 1/8" up to 1.5". So, I could build it for less... free actually. One could pop the terminal out of the stock KS connector, open it up and re-crimp wire to it, then run things around as necessary.

Realistically though, pre-made is a better option for most people.